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need some help ..again

There is a pilot bushing in the back of the crank that supports the transmission input shaft,if it is worn or missing it will vibrate as well.
 
There is a very good article printed in my Mopar Chassis manual Part No.-P4452791 on page 161 & 162 that explains the differences in the steel flywheel and how to adapt them to the cast crank engines. I could probably scan that part of the book and e-mail that information privately as I would not want to infringe on anyone's copyrights. Both engine & chassis manuals I have are printed in 1990 and I have them had that long. These books were $20.00 each back then, I don't know what they cost on today's market, but I am sure they are well worth what the price may be. Both of those books will answer about any questions a Mopar fan will ask.

You can become a know-it-all like me with these books. lol
 
It sounds to me like you have found the answer with the wrong vibration damper.

Hopefully there isnt any damage done to the engine...
 
took the transmission out today to change flywheel/balancer....anayws found another problem ...the pilot bushing was worn(i changed it about 6 months ago....im been going over the net to get an answer...my cranks got a pilot bushing hole bit its 2 sizes???the outer diameter(open end close to flywheel)it big and then towards the end of the hole its a bit smaller?is this the way its supposed to be?
 
It should be the same diameter all the way through. Make sure your tanny is centered before reinstalling it. If you are out by .004 or more you'll wear out the new pilot bushing/bearing. Plus you always get a high speed vibe through the whole car. Annoying and bad for your engine.
 
so do i have to drill the crank out now?and how do i measure if the transmission is .004 out or something??thanks
It should be the same diameter all the way through. Make sure your tanny is centered before reinstalling it. If you are out by .004 or more you'll wear out the new pilot bushing/bearing. Plus you always get a high speed vibe through the whole car. Annoying and bad for your engine.

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could i use the part http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/clutch/1.html??
or is it only for ones which the hole is not there
 
cant seem to find any info on the problem i have.....:angryfire:
 
cant seem to find any info on the problem i have.....:angryfire:

See post 22 from trimmer. The mopar chassis manual has the answers you you seek. Far too much info to try and post here. There is even an explanation of how to make sure the trans is centered to the crank.
Is there a enough of a market in qatar to keep a mechanic busy? Things are getting crappy stateside. Might need to bug out
 
so do i have to drill the crank out now?and how do i measure if the transmission is .004 out or something??thanks


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could i use the part http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/clutch/1.html??
or is it only for ones which the hole is not there

It's a little time consuming to center the trans.

Here is a good link that will have the instruction for you. Click here. Make sure you have a decent Dial indicator and magnetic base. Being out of center can wreak havoc on the engine and transmission.

Those pilot busings/bearing are for the outer or bigger diameter whole on the crank rather than going in the inner most part of the crank. That is what we are using on our 440. There is a definate price difference too. $50 instead of $4-6...... You'll still need to drill out the crank if its an auto conversion. I think your OP said you have a 4spd so you should not have to worry about that part.


Edit: Those direction are for installing a TKO. The procedure to center the transmission is the same though.
 
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yup there a hole lot of demand for proper mechs down here.....
See post 22 from trimmer. The mopar chassis manual has the answers you you seek. Far too much info to try and post here. There is even an explanation of how to make sure the trans is centered to the crank.
Is there a enough of a market in qatar to keep a mechanic busy? Things are getting crappy stateside. Might need to bug out
 
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