Need some help making a decision on distributor.

[BeepBeepRR]

The car has some random petronix type distributor in it now. My old 67 had an ecu on the firewall and all of the associated hardware. The distributor in the car doesn't have the ECU it runs straight off the coil. My point is should I change it out to an ecu type I see that Summit has 2 setups for sale one is summit branded the other is proform and is about 50 bucks cheaper than the summit one. Anyone used either of these? And which would be easier to adjust total advance on? I know MSD and Accel stuff is super expensive. But this car is just a driver and not a high performance drag car. So the expense of the MSD stuff is not even an option.

sum-850004 and PRO-66993

 

[66Satellite47]

You can be pretty certain that a Mopar electronic distributor and a Mopar electronic ECU will work well on the street. Make sure you get a clean ground for the ECU. The orange box is good for about 5500 RPM IMO, chrome or some multi spark above that.

 

[Lionized]

I'm running a ProForm (from Mancini) along with the chrome box and a Petronix Flame Thrower II and bypassed ballast resistor. Pretty satisfied thus far.

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

I have some Mallory and accell dual points and also around 100 dist cores what engine and what total advance do you need? B motors I have a lot of stuff for.
I have a distributor tester so I can pretty much set it up as needed, even a stock one by different advance plates and vac advances.

 

[Speedbird]

My recent experience is that any Chrysler style ECU you get at the auto parts store is of inferior quality.
I run a stock Chrysler distributor with this ECU and Flamethrower coil.
This is a high mileage use and I want as little maintenance as possible on the car.

http://www.4secondsflat.com/

 

[BeepBeepRR]

I just found the cam specs which I will post when I get back home. I'm sort of a noobie at tuning. So I'm having an issue trying to figure out initial and total. But possibly when I get the cam specs you guys can offer advice. Right now it's running decent with 20 advanced initial timing. But still seems to lack something.

 

[oldbee]

I put in a Summit last year to replace an old Accel BEI. Works great, has about 24* of mech. advance built into distributor.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Ok here is the setup. I have a edelbrock 1411 which I just bought a metering rod, jet and spring kit. As well as a overhaul kit. I bought the Summit version of the ECU kit with the distributor. Now that I have these items. The cam specs are as follows.
.465" /.488" Lift 224*/234* @.05 112*l/c The heads are 906 heads with factory stock type rockers and pushrods. The lifters are flat tappet.
@ 5 Degrees BTDC it has between 8 to 10 Hg but bounces around and nothing steady. I assume this is from the cam. @ 20 BTDC the car runs great ish but still seems to lack power. However the idle is all over the place. I set the carb for around 700 RPM and wait a few minutes its up to 1200 rpm. I reset it at 700 from there and wait it drops to 400. This is where I'm confused and why I bought the carb kit. If anyone can help me figure out where the car should be at as far as initial timing that would be awesome. I know using the vacuum gauge should tell me where its the happiest.

 

[oldbee]

Sure sounds like u have a vacuum leak. Spray some choke cleaner around every likely spot, intake/head,vacuum lines,etc.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Sure sounds like u have a vacuum leak. Spray some choke cleaner around every likely spot, intake/head,vacuum lines,etc.

I already checked the intake and hell there are only 2 vacuum places one is the new brake booster and the other is the distributor vacuum. I hit the intake all around and base of the carb all around and no difference. The brake booster is plugged directly into the intake and not the carb. I did not check the vacuum advance with carb cleaner.. Maybe its a damaged diaphram?

 

[oldbee]

Ok son(!) ur only 1 yr older than my oldest. Was the cam degreed in when installed?(it might be off). How old(miles) is carb? Did u check harmonic balancer mark to see if mark is really TDC? IF there's no vac leak then it has to be timing.

 

[67 coronet]

cover the air horn of the carb with your hand restricting air flow.if the eng smooths out or pics up rpm then you have a vac leak.easy way to check it.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Will try that in a few

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

Almost sounds like the vac advance is ruptured, check it to make sure it holds vacuum.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

I have no information on how the cam was installed. I assume straight up. I will check the vacuum advance too

 

[beanhead]

Problem with the spray test for vacuum leaks is it won't detect leaks under the valley pan... Use a vacuum gauge and look for low or erratic readings. As far as distributors go I like the firecore unit, it was about 150 bucks from Mancini and is easy to adjust the curve.(included springs&spacers) I also use a Mopar Chrome ECU from Summit (made in USA) so far so good on mostly street 440

Oh just read your cam specs... you should be getting way more vacuum than that, that's not a very big cam..I get 15-16 inches with the 274XE

 

[oldbee]

Are the p.brakes working? Vac leak inside booster.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Are the p.brakes working? Vac leak inside booster.

Its a brand new booster. I know even they can be bad. I just had surgery on my beak and cant really lean over to check all this stuff right now. But as soon as I can I will get to everything.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Today I was checking out the wiring on the car in preperation to install the ECU. I have a couple questions and pictures for reference.
I have a schematic and pictures of the firewall. What is the box with Heavy Duty on it called? I get the ballast resistor and how its wired. I just never see the box in and schematics. Googled it and I found out its the voltage rebulator. I should just leave that be correct?

 

[Pops1967GTX]

I'm running a stock points ignition with No problems.