74Satellite
Well-Known Member
Unfortunately, I do not have another carb, although it was rebuilt about 2 years ago. The choke thermostat wasnt working, but I replaced that along with everything else.
Need timing instructions for a slant six
- Thread starter 74Satellite
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Unfortunately, I do not have another carb, although it was rebuilt about 2 years ago. The choke thermostat wasnt working, but I replaced that along with everything else.
74Satellite
Well-Known Member
ok the foam in radiator and the low compression numbers even when cold would certainly make me think head gasket or head. Were the two cylinders reading 40 next to each other? And where were the 2 cylinders reading 90 relative to the two reading 40? You said everything looked good with gasket and head. Did this thing have a major overheat at any point that could have possibly warped the head? I realize that is a bit far fetched but those numbers are weird. Was there any anti-freeze in the cylinders when you pulled the head?
Since you didn't say this I assume you didn't do it... Did you repeat the compression test after putting everything back together and if so what are the results? After doing a normal compression test and getting results squirt some 30 weight oil into the plug holes and repeat the test just to see if the results vary. Just to see if it is rings or valves. I would assume valves based on everything that has been done but just for kicks and grins see what the variations are if any.
Since it is all back together now. Remove #1 plug. Bump the engine until your finger gets blown off. Assuming there is even enough compression for you to feel it... Look at the timing mark and see where it is realtive to zero. 5 degrees BTDC is probably what you want to start or there abouts. Then remove the distributor cap and make sure it is pointing at number one. Also verify that your wires match the following:
Cylinders 2 and 3 were the ones at 40, 1 and 4 were at 90 and 70 respectively, 5 & 6 were both over 140. I havent rerun the compression test since I have to go rent one again and havent gotten to the store as the wife had the van yesterday. Its looking like TDC on compression stroke is right at 7 degrees After TDC
74Satellite
Well-Known Member
Also I took a long straight edge and laid it on the head when I had it off in several spots, I couldnt see light under it in any of them. If the temp gauge is working properly it has never overheated, it was running a little warmer than normal but not hot.
No antifreeze in the cylinders and they all looked good, I rotated the engine around several times with the head off to check out the cylinder walls, and there is no obvious signs of damage and could still see cross hatching in several of them. None of the pushrods are bent (rolled them on a flat surface).
No antifreeze in the cylinders and they all looked good, I rotated the engine around several times with the head off to check out the cylinder walls, and there is no obvious signs of damage and could still see cross hatching in several of them. None of the pushrods are bent (rolled them on a flat surface).
70rr-brian
Well-Known Member
Well rerun the compression test and post results. Both normal and oil sprayed. The fact that the 2 cylinders were low next to each other screams head gasket but you would think it would be obvious to look at it which apparently it wasn't. but the two cylinders on the outside of the two low ones were also low. Kinda still thinking head gasket. But you replaced the gasket when you had it tore down. Let's see what the new numbers are after being replaced and retorqued.
Also just bump the motor around until you are at about 5 degrees BTDC on the compression stroke (i.e. blowing your finger off...you may have to bump it around a lot to be on compression stroke and get it to 5 degrees BTDC or very close) and pull the cap and see where the rotor is pointed. (which plug wire is it pointing at?)
Also just bump the motor around until you are at about 5 degrees BTDC on the compression stroke (i.e. blowing your finger off...you may have to bump it around a lot to be on compression stroke and get it to 5 degrees BTDC or very close) and pull the cap and see where the rotor is pointed. (which plug wire is it pointing at?)
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74Satellite
Well-Known Member
Thank you to everyone that provided the help. I have decided to stick a fork in old faithful and concede that whatever the problem is, it is beyond my knowledge level. I gave her a wash, stuck her back in the garage and covered her up.
I did some real soul searching about what to do next and have decided to part with some mopar parts that I have been saving for a rainy day or that perfect car to come around that I could use them in. I will take the money earned from these auctions and put it towards getting me a newer more reliable vehicle. I will be contacting ebay tomorrow to get my selling limits lifted so I can list more than 10 auctions.
Here is the for sale thread, please take a minute or two to take a look and see if there is anything that you are interested in.
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?p=177156#post177156
I did some real soul searching about what to do next and have decided to part with some mopar parts that I have been saving for a rainy day or that perfect car to come around that I could use them in. I will take the money earned from these auctions and put it towards getting me a newer more reliable vehicle. I will be contacting ebay tomorrow to get my selling limits lifted so I can list more than 10 auctions.
Here is the for sale thread, please take a minute or two to take a look and see if there is anything that you are interested in.
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?p=177156#post177156
Ron 73
Deceased, But not forgotton
Im sorry to hear it man.. Hope it works out well. Sent PM..
70rr-brian
Well-Known Member
Well that sucks. Good luck.
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