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Needing help

Hueyguy

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67 coronet original ac car power windows ect. 440 car but not origional motor, 727 trans. Upgraded to new ac system and Serpentine pulley kit big electric fans and 165 amp 1 wire alternator. Because the recommend amp alt for fans was 140 and I only had 95 so after a bunch of righty tightly and lefty loosey I got it all done and I've been chasing an over heat issue. Never happend before I added ac back to car and went electric fans and upgraded serp kit.

Fairly sure that everything is now so close together and heat soaking, there is no air gap..when the fans are on they can't pull in enough air quick enough and get it out fast enough. I'm assuming I need a big wide mouth hood scoop with lots of fresh air. It actually got so hot it boiled my power steering ering fluid. Was also just tuned may be lean who knows.

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If you don't mind... what fans are you running? Basically, what diameter and CFM rating are they?

IMHO - they aren't too close... mine are very close (closer actually) as well and the air is moving well. Usually, it's the size and/or CFM that will make for not enough pull... or there's something blocking/restricting the airflow from the front... like an AC or tranny cooler?

Does it heat up when driving (say 55 mph) and cool down when stopped/idle at a light... or the other way around? Or does it just heat up no matter what?

And might as well ask... what is your thermostat rated? 165... 175... 185... etc.?
 
You might try sealing the radiator to the support so all air coming in has to go thru the core. What fans are you employing, specs/brand?
Mike
 
I'm just throwing this out there but did you get the correct water pump with the serp belt system? Water pump turns backwards with serp belts on modern cars, not sure how the retro systems are set up though.
 
Did you have this issue before you decided on all of those add ons? Seems to be so common, overheating, electric fans. 200 Amp alt, increase the wiring. Damn.
 
67 coronet original ac car power windows ect. 440 car but not origional motor, 727 trans. Upgraded to new ac system and Serpentine pulley kit big electric fans and 165 amp 1 wire alternator. Because the recommend amp alt for fans was 140 and I only had 95 so after a bunch of righty tightly and lefty loosey I got it all done and I've been chasing an over heat issue. Never happend before I added ac back to car and went electric fans and upgraded serp kit.

Fairly sure that everything is now so close together and heat soaking, there is no air gap..when the fans are on they can't pull in enough air quick enough and get it out fast enough. I'm assuming I need a big wide mouth hood scoop with lots of fresh air. It actually got so hot it boiled my power steering ering fluid. Was also just tuned may be lean who knows.

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If it's boiling power steering fluid it will also boil fuel in the carb which can get expensive.

If it was me I would remove the rad cap, block the wheels and run the engine to operating temperature and see if there are any bubbles, increase rpm to 1500 or more if need be.
 
On the serpentine system I have for my 65, they specced out specific pumps due to reverse rotation. Could be the culprit for you. Also asked above: what are the CFM ratings for the fans? Many of them are hardly up to the task. Also, 22" or 26" core. Which one are you running?
 
I use a pretty basic Summit dual fan /shroud on my Fury with a built 440, A/C, power everything and very tight clearances at the front of the engine. A couple of thoughts:
1) Are you sure the fans are "pullers" and both come on?
2) A valid question was asked about cruising at speed verses stopped in traffic and how temperature reacts for both.
3) A valid question was asked about reverse rotation water pump.
4) What is your initial timing and have you advanced timing to see if that helps?
5) It's possible that there is an air bubble in the system preventing proper flow. Search on this site.
6) 210* is not overheating. A 50/50 mix of antifreeze/water boils at approximately 265*. Is your engine puking water? Make sure and leave an inch or so room at the top of the radiator for coolant expansion.
Initially, answers to #1,2 &3 will help in diagnosing your problem...

IMG_1305.JPEG
 
If you don't mind... what fans are you running? Basically, what diameter and CFM rating are they?

IMHO - they aren't too close... mine are very close (closer actually) as well and the air is moving well. Usually, it's the size and/or CFM that will make for not enough pull... or there's something blocking/restricting the airflow from the front... like an AC or tranny cooler?

Does it heat up when driving (say 55 mph) and cool down when stopped/idle at a light... or the other way around? Or does it just heat up no matter what?

And might as well ask... what is your thermostat rated? 165... 175... 185... etc.?
The fans are 3300 cfm each and 40 amps each the thermostat in it is 185 and that's where the car used to sit temp wise all the time. With my mechanical fan. I have an ac condenser in the way now yes and that's my main concern/issue i believe not enough air flow....never got warm with the mechanical fan I went to serp kit and had to go electric fans due to space. I'm going to remove my condenser and see if my issue goes away
 
I don't know why folks thing electric fans are an upgrade. The other issue with Mopars is usually flow. Out cars are not designed for thermostats with tiny 1 1/8 openings. The EMP/Stewart thermostats are like the old factory ones, about 1 7/16". Flow is everything...
 
Thanks, Geoff 2:
This is very interesting reading. I was familiar with some of Stewart Engineering's products but had never checked out their site. There is some very controversial information that doesn't match my learning and experience over 60 years of building, racing and just driving hot rods, on the strip and street. It's worth checking out. I realize a lot of what is said applies to high RPM race engines, but any information from a reputable source is good food for thought. Thanks. Below is just a bit from their site:

Fans

"Electric fans have improved tremendously in recent years, in both quality and reliability. Electric fans now outperform mechanical fans in nearly every application, except towing and dirt oval track racing.

When using a mechanical fan, a properly designed shroud must be used. Most mechanical fans are not designed for high RPM use: they can have serious vibrations problems, due to air turbulence, when run over 6,500 RPM. This is a turbulence problem, not a balance problem, and will destroy the water pump and components in front of it. The large fans preferred by dirt oval track racers can consume up to 18 horsepower at 6,500 RPM. Do NOT run a mechanical fan that is any larger than required for the application.

Flex fans are a poor design for performance applications. They move less air at higher RPM, and only consume a fraction less power than standard fixed pitch fans.

Clutch-style fans are inconsistent and we do not recommend their use for any application, if possible."
 
I don't know why folks thing electric fans are an upgrade. The other issue with Mopars is usually flow. Out cars are not designed for thermostats with tiny 1 1/8 openings. The EMP/Stewart thermostats are like the old factory ones, about 1 7/16". Flow is everything...
@Demonic , please see Post #15 below...
 
The problem is, even if that is true, there's too many junk foreign made fans out there. I stand by my research.
 
A hood scoop will not help.
I suspect you have low coolant flow I think the serpentine setup might be in question.
 
The fans are 3300 cfm each and 40 amps each the thermostat in it is 185 and that's where the car used to sit temp wise all the time. With my mechanical fan. I have an ac condenser in the way now yes and that's my main concern/issue i believe not enough air flow....never got warm with the mechanical fan I went to serp kit and had to go electric fans due to space. I'm going to remove my condenser and see if my issue goes away
But what TYPE of fan(s) are you using? Probably a propeller type? You mentioned that the fans are 3300 cfm....but at what static pressure? Since the fans are "puller" type, any resistance to air flow, measured in inches/wg, (inches of water) will reduce the actual air capacity the fan will deliver. Power consumed increases as either: volume of air required to move, at standard conditions, at temperature increases, the air density decreases the hp required will be less. Propeller fans are very inefficient at high static pressure requirements. The only way to know is ask the fan supplier for the fan curves of your selection. The fan curve will show: CFM vs Static Pressure including hp required at the best operating point.

Fan Law 1: CFM is directly proportional to RPM.

Formula: CFM2 = CFM1 X (RPM2 ÷ RPM1) or RPM2 = RPM1 X (CFM2 ÷ CFM1)
What it means: As you increase fan RPM, CFM increases at a 1:1 ratio. So if you need to increase CFM by 10%, your RPM has to increase by 10%. Since it is a 1:1 ratio, we can interchange RPM for CFM in Fan Laws 2 and 3. We use Fan Law 1 all the time in the field. If we need to change the airflow, we change fan speed by changing a speed tap, VFD output, pulley diameter, or other means.

Apply it in the field: If your blower is moving 1000 CFM at 1100 RPM, and you need to decrease airflow by 10% to 900 CFM, Fan Law 1 says your RPM must decrease by 10% also. Let’s put that in the formula:

RPM2 = RPM1 X (CFM2 ÷ CFM1)

RPM2 = 1100 X ( 900 ÷ 1000)

RPM2 = 990 This is your new RPM.
We also need to understand that for us to make predictions using this fan law and fan laws 2 and 3, everything else about the air and the system needs to stay the same, including air temperature and density. System friction must also stay constant, so these fan laws cannot be used with automatic dampers that self-adjust to maintain flow.

Fan Law 2: Total Static Pressure changes with the square of CFM (or RPM).

Formula: SP2 = SP1 X (CFM2 ÷ CFM1)² or SP2 = SP1 X (RPM2 ÷ RPM1)²

What it means: A 10% increase in CFM will result in a 21% increase in static pressure. Think about that. A small increase in airflow creates a significant increase in duct pressure. This increased pressure will be evenly distributed across components like coils and filters. So, this fan law can be applied to total static pressure or a static pressure drop across a single component in the system. That matters because some components have static pressure limitations that affect their performance. Air filters work best when they have a low-pressure drop across them. This usually means the air velocity is low enough to allow for “dwell time” through the filter material, catching more particulates. Condensate traps that are already close to their limit may have to be made deeper so that they don’t get overwhelmed. Air proving switches must be adjusted so that they do their job at the new CFM and static pressure.

Apply it in the field: At 1000 CFM, you read a 0.9″w.c. pressure drop across a media filter. You need to increase your airflow to 1200 CFM. What will be the new pressure drop?

SP2 = SP1 X (CFM2 ÷ CFM1)²

SP2 = 0.9 X (1200 ÷ 1000)²
Manufacturers provide performance specifications to allow designers to select the right fan for their system. In residential design, we size the duct friction based on the fan performance of the air handler we have pre-selected based on the tonnage our load calculation calls for. But in commercial design, we size the fan based on the friction of the duct system we have already designed. In either case, we must consult the manufacturer’s fan performance data to verify the fan is a good match for the load.

Exercise: Select the better exhaust fan for our commercial application. 1000 CFM @0.5″ w.c. We have 2 choices: Greenheck Model SQ-130-B or a smaller model SQ-100-VG.

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FYI.....typical example of a fan curve....to make a intelligent decision you should talk with you supplier, using the above examples of his recommendation for your specific application. PM me if you want any more information about fans....most people say this is not required but if you want specific information you need to convey your requirements.......
BOB RENTON
 
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