I have a dual plane intake manifold so I use the original valley pan.
The machine work to fit billet main caps is really expensive, and I think over kill at 600 HP. Check what your machine shop charges to fit the main caps to the block.
I've got external trans cooler. I mounted it in front of radiator about 1" gad and seems to be ok. I worry it blocks a bit too much airflow though.
yeah the heads are bolted on top of the chamfer each side of the valley plate. I cant pinpoint exactly the location of the leak though.I think its in a few places. I tottally degreased everything and brake cleaned any common tracks and this photo below can see drop under lug below head and underneath the starter. It seems to be tracking down to sump seal and sump hangs in the bellhousing so its pooling up there. Does this mean I am pulling my heads off or is there some miracle fix? haha cheers.
Yeah I am looking at fabricating a shroud but I have zero space between pulley and the radiator. Shroud is going to have to be no thicker than 5-10mm so not sure if thats even worse baffle.
look at this shroud , not conducive to pulling a lot of air over the entire rad...
Yeah I think the same. I hear there are flas that you install for highway driving that close at low speed. where does the snowball stop
First on the cooling issue. Overheating at highway speeds has nothing much to do with fans. At that speed there is plenty of airflow. Thermostats rarely stick shut. They almost always fail partialy open. I'd be looking as timing and ducting through the radiator itself. Now to the valley plate. It is possible to remove that style without removing the heads on Indy -1s. So I'd give it a try on the Trick Flows. The biggest hurdle is cutting the RTV at the front and rear of the plate. On the Indy plates I tapped the center hole of the plate 3/8"x24. Then bolts can be screwed into the plate touching the block. Doesn't take much, just enough to lift the center slightly. Then get a thin knife between the plate and block to cut the RTV. On the head junction just slice through the RTV from the top. Once it's all cut take a block of wood and tap the plate rearward until its completly loose. It may take a little more knife work. The plate will fall down into the valey. Twist and remove. On reinstall the RTV ony needs to be spread thin on all 4 surfaces. Put a nice dab in each corner. Adda little behind the head to block junction at the top inside corner of the head gasket. Hold the plate with 4" long bolts screwed into the two tapped holes in the end of the plate. Then it can be lowered into tha valley twisted and pulled up. After it's bolted in add a line down the head/plate junction. Do a dry run 1st. It isn't the easiest job. But far easier than pulling the heads. As seen in this pic a valley acces plate was added for easy lifter swap. The second pic shows the RTV at the head to plate.
The valley plate falls in after you clear the bolted flange at the front. There is no support under the plate running along the head? Of course! Genius! What a mental design how does it not piss oil all the way along the heads this has made my night thank you!
