New carb?

[Ktmrida4life]

New gas tank is definitely the way to go. I believe the straps (mine at least was) stainless steel. The only reason I replaced mine was because I wanted new ones without undercoat all over them. The j bolts are harder to save, mine were pretty bad.

That sux about the carb. Hope u can fix it. There is always cheap parts carbs on ebag u could buy a $20 carb for parts. Good luck man.

I was able to get the undercoat off.. heated it up and scraped it off. It was almost like tar.

J bolt isnt pretty but it should work.

 

[Ktmrida4life]

Got the carb back together today.. and got it on the car, and I cant get the car to start. Doesnt even sound like its trying. It just spins and spins.. I took out one of the spark plugs and gas literally spilled out of the cylinder..

Not sure what the issue is. I pulled the air horn (what the manual calls it, top half of carb) off while the other half was on the car and tried adjusting the float level a little lower thinking maybe it was too high... put it back together and it still wont start. Cant even get a "poof" out of it. I checked on 3 different cylinders to see if I have spark, and I do.

I held the throttle open a bit and looked down in the intake and saw a pool of gas. Its still very flooded.. but I think the floats might be OK now? Not sure.

I cant figure out how the linkages on the right side of the carb go back on. Theres a fast idle cam which I think I figured out how it goes (maybe?) but theres a piece that goes behind it that I have no idea what it does or how it goes on.... should any of the throttle barrels be open just a little when trying to start the car? They all look to be shut closed.

 

[Ktmrida4life]

I cant stop thinking about it even though I have other stuff to do.

Im going to mess with it more tomorrow... I think Im going to buy a fuel pressure regulator and a new set of plugs. Pull the carb, try to flush out whatever gas is still flooded in the cylinders. Fix the carb linkages and get them working correctly, and then put the carb back on and give it another go.

 

[MarPar]

you'll get it, just keep at it!! looks like you have pretty good grasp of things...good luck!

 

[coloradodave]

Have you accessed the Edelbrock site to see how to adjust the float level AND float drop? You need to get these measurements right or you're spittin in the wind. You already know how to remove the carb top, so now set the floats correctly. You also should check the needle and seats for crap holding the needle open or 'creases' in the rubber tip of the needles. Something is allowing the fuel to get past the seats and flood the motor. Did you blow out the fuel line from the tank and between the pump and the carb after you replaced the tank? The secondaries should be closed. The primaries should be slightly open, just exposing the bottom of the small slots in the barrels. You need to remove the carb to see this. A rebuild kit with new needles and seats would be a good investment at this point.

 

[Ktmrida4life]

Today I replaced all the spark plugs, and installed the fuel regulator... tried to fix the choke linkages as well, I think I have them in the correct position now but for some reason the fast idle cam isnt lining up with the screw that adjusts it. What does it do and what would cause it to not line up with the screw? Stupid question

Also, should both the things circled in white be hooked up to the battery 12v?

Still have a few issues to work out..

Car is smoking BAD, I think I narrowed that down to one of the valve cover gaskets leaking alot of oil on the exhaust manifold and under the car. It was really leaking bad. Replaced the gasket but I havent started the car back up yet. Ignition switch works, but when you turn it the car doesnt turn over. Have a switch wired up bypassing the key.The choke seems to be staying on too long... and the car still idles pretty rough and when you rev it up pretty good it shoots flames out the exhaust manifold. Timing?

- - - Updated - - -

Have you accessed the Edelbrock site to see how to adjust the float level AND float drop? You need to get these measurements right or you're spittin in the wind. You already know how to remove the carb top, so now set the floats correctly. You also should check the needle and seats for crap holding the needle open or 'creases' in the rubber tip of the needles. Something is allowing the fuel to get past the seats and flood the motor. Did you blow out the fuel line from the tank and between the pump and the carb after you replaced the tank? The secondaries should be closed. The primaries should be slightly open, just exposing the bottom of the small slots in the barrels. You need to remove the carb to see this. A rebuild kit with new needles and seats would be a good investment at this point.

I did rebuild the carb and there are new needles and seats in there. Yes, I did measure the float drop and float level and tried to adjust them to spec which I believe was 7/32" and 3/4". Thats where I had it at first, I think now its more like 5/32". Float drop is still 3/4". I didnt blow out the lines, but I ran fresh gas through them and it pumped out some of the old green stuff and then it started running clear.

I think the regulator solved the flooding issue. Its set to 5.5PSI

 

[coloradodave]

Afb carburetors normally use the following specs: Float level = 7/16". Measured with the air horn inverted and gasket in place, there should be 7/16" between the outer end of the float and the gasket.
Float drop = (+-) 1". Measured with the air horn right side up, gasket in place, from the gasket down to the outer end of the float.
Have you installed a fuel filter between the pump and the carb? Once you get the fast idle linkage squared away maybe the choke will work correctly. If not, loosen the three screws that hold the black cap on and turn it a little toward 'lean'. Also check that the choke lead has 12 volts in 'run' position.
Wouldn't worry about the backfire until you get some exhaust on the car.

 

[Ktmrida4life]

Afb carburetors normally use the following specs: Float level = 7/16". Measured with the air horn inverted and gasket in place, there should be 7/16" between the outer end of the float and the gasket.
Float drop = (+-) 1". Measured with the air horn right side up, gasket in place, from the gasket down to the outer end of the float.
Have you installed a fuel filter between the pump and the carb? Once you get the fast idle linkage squared away maybe the choke will work correctly. If not, loosen the three screws that hold the black cap on and turn it a little toward 'lean'. Also check that the choke lead has 12 volts in 'run' position.
Wouldn't worry about the backfire until you get some exhaust on the car.

The car doesnt have an electric choke, it has an automatic choke. The spring type in the intake manifold that supposedly warms up as the car does. Sounds like my floats are probably set a little low, but it seems to be OK

 

[Ktmrida4life]

Messed with the car more today, the huge oil leak I had is fixed. Heres a list of things I want to fix.

1- Automatic choke is still being a PITA and I cant figure out how to get it adjusted correctly and still dont think I have the fast idle linkages correct.
2- After you shut the car off and it sits a bit, it doesnt start back up very easily. Not sure if this is because it isnt getting a constant flow of fuel ( no gas tank, using gas jug ) or what.
3- Car smokes a bit out of the exhaust once it gets warmed up
4- Gauges still dont work. Pretty sure the voltage limiter in the dash is shot, and I want to replace it with a solid state one (MOSFET) but I cant figure out how to remove the instrument cluster. I have it loose, but when trying to pull it out it either catches the dash pad or the steering column. Do I need to drop the steering column to get it out?

 

[67 coronet]

yes,drop the column a bit to get out.
smoking after warm up is prob worn valve seals.no real way to fix that other then a valve job.
how about some pics of the carb linkage problem?

 

[Ktmrida4life]

I just dropped it all the way. After about an hour I finally got it out. Was being very careful not to break anything. Got out the old voltage regulator and started working on soldering in a new one with a heatsink mounted to the metal chassis of the instrument panel. Hoping it fixes my gauges!!

Also hoping I can get the tank back in soon. Tried putting it in today by myself and I couldnt quite get the strap to reach the bolt threads of the j-bolt enough to thread the nut on. Will get some help and try again another day... probably saturday

 

[cngordon]

hope all goes well for you.

 

[Ktmrida4life]

hope all goes well for you.

I got the instrument panel back in, the gas gauge seems to be sketchy at best with me just playing with the arm of the new sending unit, and the temp gauge started to go up but I dont think the car got hot enough for it to register in the middle of the gauge. I did see both gauges move though, which means that they are at least getting power now and doing more than they were before.

While I was letting the car get hot so I could see if the temp gauge was working, it started smoking worse and worse. When you rev it up, it REALLY dumps out a bunch of white smoke. Just smells like burnt oil and I stink like hell now because of it.

Is this valve seals or rings? If its rings my uncle probably wont mess with it but if its the heads I may be able to convince him to let me pull them and have them rebuilt. Also right now I dont have a gas tank installed, Im just using a long gas line and a small gas jug.. the car seems to be using a lot of gas!! I dont know whats normal for a car like this but it really sucks it down quick just idling there! When I first started the car up cold, it started up probably in 1/2 a second.. after it runs a bit and you shut it off, you have to crank for 10+ seconds to get it back started and then it kinda stumbles to life. What would cause that???