New clutch = no good

[Paul_G]

I put a new clutch in the 73. It has a stock built 440. The bearing retainer was leaking badly, while down to fix that I put a new clutch in as well. The old disc was oiled up so even tho only 2000 miles on it, it had to go.

I got a Zoom MU 1858-1a from Summit. Stock replacement Borg and Beck style.

The problem; I adjusted the clutch linkage to have the throw out bearing just clear the pressure plate fingers and turn freely. Went inside to test the clutch, engine off, and the pedal goes to the floor and stays there, had to pull it up and it snaps back in to full up position. What the hell? The over center spring is still on it, Borg and Beck style. I adjust the linkage a little tighter and put a stronger clutch fork return spring on it. Pedal still stays on the floor. So I remove the over center spring. Now the pedal comes back up off the floor but the clutch has no feel to it. Started the engine, clutch out and it sounds normal. Depressed the clutch pedal and when at the floor it starts screeching a metal on metal screech. What the hell#2.

I dropped the trans and pulled the clutch back off. Everything looks normal, cant really see any witness marks from the screeching. Something isn't right.

 

[ckessel]

What style of PP was in there before? Diaphragm? Did you get a t/o assembly with the Zoom? There is a difference in length on the t/o bearing assembly between a diaphragm, Borg and Beck and Long style[ Ford]

 

[Paul_G]

It was a discount store stock replacement Borg and Beck in there. The new Zoom clutch came with a new TO bearing, shaft bushing, pressure plate and disc. I replaced it all.

 

[ckessel]

A couple of things come to mind from when I had my Duster. One time the pivot pin on one of the pp fingers broke, another time the t/o unit had spun around off of the fork so there was no contact between the fork and bearing. Both gave dead clutch feeling like what you have going on. Another possibility is that the new Zoom pp has an issue.

 

[ckessel]

Also, have someone work the clutch through its motions while you watch from pedal down to the fork.

 

[Paul_G]

Also, have someone work the clutch through its motions while you watch from pedal down to the fork.

Yep, had my wife get in the car and push the pedal as I watched from underneath. What I did notice was a very large air gap between the friction disc and pressure plate when the clutch was fully disengaged. I would expect to see maybe .020", it was maybe an 1/8". The clutch fork was fully engaged on the TO bearing when I took it back apart.

Tomorrow I am going to get the old clutch on the bench next to the new one and take some measurements before I call Zoom.

 

[Beekeeper]

I put a new clutch in the 73. It has a stock built 440. The bearing retainer was leaking badly, while down to fix that I put a new clutch in as well. The old disc was oiled up so even tho only 2000 miles on it, it had to go.

I got a Zoom MU 1858-1a from Summit. Stock replacement Borg and Beck style.

The problem; I adjusted the clutch linkage to have the throw out bearing just clear the pressure plate fingers and turn freely. Went inside to test the clutch, engine off, and the pedal goes to the floor and stays there, had to pull it up and it snaps back in to full up position. What the hell? The over center spring is still on it, Borg and Beck style. I adjust the linkage a little tighter and put a stronger clutch fork return spring on it. Pedal still stays on the floor. So I remove the over center spring. Now the pedal comes back up off the floor but the clutch has no feel to it. Started the engine, clutch out and it sounds normal. Depressed the clutch pedal and when at the floor it starts screeching a metal on metal screech. What the hell#2.

I dropped the trans and pulled the clutch back off. Everything looks normal, cant really see any witness marks from the screeching. Something isn't right.

sounds like the torque shaft bushings and or pins are worn out and need replaced my bee starting doing the same thing out of the blue and that’s what it was.

 

[eldubb440]

first time I did a clutch, I put the disc in backwards...... it didn't work...... I think I was 15

 

[Fran Blacker]

^^^ Check engine side of disc for marks.

 

[ckessel]

sounds like the torque shaft bushings and or pins are worn out and need replaced my bee starting doing the same thing out of the blue and that’s what it was.

Loss of transferred motion here causes problems. Along with the bushings, look at the tube for splits/cracks and the arms for same plus holes enlarged. Also like the other two gents pointed out, maybe the disc is on backwards. Many time the disc is marked for engine side but if it was not, the flattest side goes to the flywheel. The side that sticks up with the hub springs is the pp side. And while its out, have a look at the fork for forking issues.

 

[Jeremiah]

If you push the clutch pedal in and it makes horrible noises the clutch disc is most likey installed backwards. If that isn't the culprit the pressure plate might have a problem as mentioned.

 

[69 Charger]

A question for the clutch experts. I'm replacing the clutch in my '69 Charger with 383 and 4-speed. I bought a Luk kit from Rock Auto. The kit came with a small tube of a thick dark gray grease and instructions say to apply it evenly to the splines. The only splines in the kit are in the hub of the friction disc, so that's where I put it and evenly in a thin layer with a small brush. I understand the need to keep lubricant off the friction surface.
The question comes when I read in the 1969 Service Manual, page 6-7, paragraph 13:
"CAUTION: Do not lubricate splines or pilot end of transmission drive pinion when installing transmission. These areas must be kept dry."
and
"Installation
(1) Lubricate transmission drive pinion pilot bushing in end of crankshaft with about one-half teaspoon of special long-life chassis grease.....Place lubricant in radius back of bushing."

When the transmission is installed, the input shaft splines will go through the friction disc splines and into the bronze pilot bushing in the crankshaft (which now has grease in the bushing. Will this not transfer grease to the input shaft pilot and splines?

Am I mis-interpreting the manual instructions?

Thanks for any guidance on this.

 

[4speed68rt]

I would go with what the manufacturer of the clutch says. I dont think a little grease will hurt anything on the splines, it is just to make them go into the hub easier. You definitly want to grease that pilot bushing.

 

[Fran Blacker]

I'd lube it lightly put disc on remove disc and wipe off any excess on disc and splines.

 

[Big Bad Dad]

first time I did a clutch, I put the disc in backwards...... it didn't work...... I think I was 15

My thoughts as well....