New to B body forums

[Sir Dodge alot]

It took me quite awhile to find a b-body wagon. Wanted a driver 63-70, maybe 71/72, but they were few a far between. Several a-body rust buckets, some possible c's, several project b's. I already have a 65 Coronet 500 as my project but wanted a nice daily driver. Finally scored. Still waiting for a buyer on my 04.5 Cummins Dually.

People here in Texas has a thing for Cummins, post a classified ad in the Texas area?

Really 60's wagons are the best year range, you avoid the smogged out V-8's from the 70's.

Coronet 500? Is that a B body as well?

 

[B-Body 70]

Hi there, pleased to meet your acquaintance, I'm new here on the B body forums.

I'm a young guy, hoping to learn and grow on tinkering with these old Chryslers/Dodges that were long here before me.
I have an interest in C body/full size/ forward look Chryslers/Dodges, but really A/B body, same happy big Dodge family!

Hoping to get along with all of you here B body veterans!

Hi there, pleased to meet your acquaintance, I'm new here on the B body forums.

I'm a young guy, hoping to learn and grow on tinkering with these old Chryslers/Dodges that were long here before me.
I have an interest in C body/full size/ forward look Chryslers/Dodges, but really A/B body, same happy big Dodge family!

Hoping to get along with all of you here B body veterans!

 

[B-Body 70]

Hi there, pleased to meet your acquaintance, I'm new here on the B body forums.

I'm a young guy, hoping to learn and grow on tinkering with these old Chryslers/Dodges that were long here before me.
I have an interest in C body/full size/ forward look Chryslers/Dodges, but really A/B body, same happy big Dodge family!

Hoping to get along with all of you here B body veterans!

Welcome, I’m new a week in. This is a great bunch of people here I’m thankful for so far! Best thing to join for info etc!! Mopars are therapeutic!! lol!

 

[ckessel]

People here in Texas has a thing for Cummins, post a classified ad in the Texas area?

Really 60's wagons are the best year range, you avoid the smogged out V-8's from the 70's.

Coronet 500? Is that a B body as well?

I may do that. Its currently on Autotrader.
Wanted to for sure have 75 or older to avoid smog. 72 down is what I'm more familiar with.
Yes on the 65. Currently in many pieces.

 

[Sir Dodge alot]

Welcome, I’m new a week in. This is a great bunch of people here I’m thankful for so far! Best thing to join for info etc!! Mopars are therapeutic!! lol!

View attachment 1670402

Great to hear, C body forum is a great place also with many helpful folks!

 

[Sir Dodge alot]

I may do that. Its currently on Autotrader.
Wanted to for sure have 75 or older to avoid smog. 72 down is what I'm more familiar with.
Yes on the 65. Currently in many pieces.

View attachment 1670415

View attachment 1670416

Beautiful paint, nice engine compartment, liking the "stock" unmolested look, especially that roadrunner "air grabber" air cleaner.

 

[ckessel]

The air cleaner is a custom fab unit I'm doing. Going old school NASCAR cowl induction so I can not put a hole in the hood.

 

[mr. b]

welcome to FBBO from Pa

 

[69Bee]

Welcome from AZ...

 

[Don Frelier]

Welcome from NY

 

[Sir Dodge alot]

The air cleaner is a custom fab unit I'm doing. Going old school NASCAR cowl induction so I can not put a hole in the hood.

So something like Ram/cowl induction? Sort of like the on the 68? 69? Plymouth roadrunner?
That reminds me...

I considered what I had done to be butchered, and not "original" or a complete pure Honda "ricer" but I wasn't about to cut a hole in the hood to complete the air intake ducting, besides, a big lead sled cruiser doesn't really "look right" with a big ram cowl induction system sticking out of the hood, my Other A/B body guys have that covered!

but here's what I had done with the induction system on my end, didn't like how the engine was sucking in hot air from the engine compartment, just was my pet peeve.

And the Dodge I was working on being a Forward look/C body car, there were not much parts or kits that was being supported a "cold air" induction kit, so I had fabbed up my own.

The ducting could have been just regular corrugated flexible tubing, but I went with smooth 5 inch diameter aluminum ducting to preserve the air flow without being interrupted, the smooth tubing will be less turbulent than the corrugated tubing.

I was looking for a bit of a sleeper intake style, with the filter hiding behind the grille to give it that, "it's not stock" kind of look.

But ironically it's as stock as can be. Lol.

Apologies for the long post, just reminded me of when you are also fabbing up an intake system as well.

And yes, the zip ties being supports for the ducting needs to change, but this will do until I can secure the ducting without being too solid to the rest of the engine/carburetor.

 

[Sir Dodge alot]

welcome to FBBO from Pa

Thanks for the welcoming Sir!

 

[Sir Dodge alot]

Welcome from NY

Appreciate the open arms, thanks!

 

[Sir Dodge alot]

Welcome from AZ...

Much appreciated, thanks!

 

[ckessel]

Similar to this. To see more of what I'm doing, go to the members rides/restorations section and check out "updating the super street mopar".

 

[Coelacanth]

So something like Ram/cowl induction? Sort of like the on the 68? 69? Plymouth roadrunner?
That reminds me...

I considered what I had done to be butchered, and not "original" or a complete pure Honda "ricer" but I wasn't about to cut a hole in the hood to complete the air intake ducting, besides, a big lead sled cruiser doesn't really "look right" with a big ram cowl induction system sticking out of the hood, my Other A/B body guys have that covered!

but here's what I had done with the induction system on my end, didn't like how the engine was sucking in hot air from the engine compartment, just was my pet peeve.

And the Dodge I was working on being a Forward look/C body car, there were not much parts or kits that was being supported a "cold air" induction kit, so I had fabbed up my own.

The ducting could have been just regular corrugated flexible tubing, but I went with smooth 5 inch diameter aluminum ducting to preserve the air flow without being interrupted, the smooth tubing will be less turbulent than the corrugated tubing.

I was looking for a bit of a sleeper intake style, with the filter hiding behind the grille to give it that, "it's not stock" kind of look.

But ironically it's as stock as can be. Lol.

View attachment 1671358

View attachment 1671359

View attachment 1671360

View attachment 1671361
Apologies for the long post, just reminded me of when you are also fabbing up an intake system as well.

And yes, the zip ties being supports for the ducting needs to change, but this will do until I can secure the ducting without being too solid to the rest of the engine/carburetor.

That's a really cool, creative modern take on a vintage cold air intake. I wonder how it affects performance, any guesses? It's intriguing to me because a 1970 Charger hood is too beautiful to be cut up to add a scoop and you're really limited to how big of an air filter you can install. I don't even think I can put in a 1" carb spacer with my existing 3" air filter. What part is that unit attaching to the carb? Are the tubes 3"? Does that fit a typical carb like an Edelbrock Performer 4-barrel? Thanks.

I fabricated my own CAI for my '86 GN because the aftermarket ones were way overpriced considering you could buy the tubes and silicone connectors yourself, and mine also kept a 3" diameter right up to the turbo, all the aftermarket ones were only 2.5" from the air filter up. It was nice to get rid of that air box and accordion-like intake tube.

 

[Sir Dodge alot]

That's a really cool, creative modern take on a vintage cold air intake. I wonder how it affects performance, any guesses? It's intriguing to me because a 1970 Charger hood is too beautiful to be cut up to add a scoop and you're really limited to how big of an air filter you can install. I don't even think I can put in a 1" carb spacer with my existing 3" air filter. What part is that unit attaching to the carb? Are the tubes 3"? Does that fit a typical carb like an Edelbrock Performer 4-barrel? Thanks.

I fabricated my own CAI for my '86 GN because the aftermarket ones were way overpriced considering you could buy the tubes and silicone connectors yourself, and mine also kept a 3" diameter right up to the turbo, all the aftermarket ones were only 2.5" from the air filter up. It was nice to get rid of that air box and accordion-like intake tube.

View attachment 1671627

View attachment 1671628

The performance "increases" changing over from accordion tubing to smooth tubing may be a small to little boost.

but the ones that's at the race track strives to make even an improvement no matter how little impact it has.
I strive for those little bit of performance boosts, it's actually fun to rack your brain to see what can be done, and potentially "outsmart the engineers"

Honestly I don't know how anybody questions the typical "Cold air intake kits" sold by K&N.
They supply you with plastic accordion tubing and probably a bit less restrictive air filter for about a cheaper price range of $200.

Even on some other vehicles, the "kits" can run as high as $900! Or $1200!

Thanks,
I'll link the tubing/parts/carburetor "hat" that's sitting on top of the carburetor.
TLDR: The carburetor air cleaner is a mounting size of 5 1/8

And yes, if I had to guess for performance increases, theoretically, the long tubing provides low end torque while a regular short tubing or otherwise stock air cleaner intake setup will boost top end RPM performance.
IMO, big lead sled cruisers need the low end torque, not to be used as much on the straight away. Sometimes.

I did some extensive research as I wasn't about to cut a hole in the radiator core support for the ducting to not work.

The 4 inch ducting is a bit small on a big block Chrysler 361, from calculations I had run a few years back, I needed a ducting size of around 5 inches or so to fully optimize the free breathing of the intake tract.

I'd assume the inadequate ducting size can be compensated somewhat using a different step up rod/springs combo.

Apologies, some additional notes: if the ducting size is inadequate for the engine in question.
You'd have a rich A/F mix, not enough air too much fuel.

This was mounted on top of a Carter AVS, so a Edelbrock will work with a mounting flange size of 5 1/8.

Below are the links where I bought the ducting from, lo and behold Amazon!

The 2 45* 4 inch elbows.
https://www.amazon.com/Spectre-Perf...p_m_grid_dv_rp_0_1_ec_ppx_yo2_mob_b_ts_rp_4_i
The single straight 4 Inch pipe
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001GC9E1C?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
The carburetor "Hat" that sits on top of the carburetor.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001OMM6R8?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Also, the silicone ducting pieces to connect the ducting all together.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001OMK53K?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Finally, the filter. It's a K&N but it worked fine in my case.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AFRIVNQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

 

[Coelacanth]

The performance "increases" changing over from accordion tubing to smooth tubing may be negligible, but the ones that's at the race track strives to make even an improvement no matter how little impact it has.
I strive for those little bit of performance boosts, it's actually fun to rack your brain to see what can be done, and potentially "outsmart the engineers"

Thanks,
I'll link the tubing/parts/carburetor "hat" that's sitting on top of the carburetor.
TLDR: The carburetor air cleaner is a mounting size of 5 1/8

And yes, if I had to guess for performance increases, theoretically, the long tubing provides low end torque while a regular short tubing or otherwise stock air cleaner intake setup will boost top end RPM performance.
IMO, big lead sled cruisers need the low end torque, not to be used as much on the straight away. Sometimes.

I did some extensive research as I wasn't about to cut a hole in the radiator core support for the ducting to not work.

The 4 inch ducting is a bit small on a big block Chrysler 361, from calculations I had run a few years back, I needed a ducting size of around 5 inches or so to fully optimize the free breathing of the intake tract.

I'd assume the inadequate ducting size can be compensated somewhat using a different step up rod/springs combo.

Apologies, some additional notes: if the ducting size is inadequate for the engine in question.
You'd have a rich A/F mix, not enough air too much fuel.

This was mounted on top of a Carter AVS, so a Edelbrock will work with a mounting flange size of 5 1/8.

Below are the links where I bought the ducting from, lo and behold Amazon!

The 2 45* 4 inch elbows.
https://www.amazon.com/Spectre-Perf...p_m_grid_dv_rp_0_1_ec_ppx_yo2_mob_b_ts_rp_4_i
The single straight 4 Inch pipe
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001GC9E1C?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
The carburetor "Hat" that sits on top of the carburetor.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001OMM6R8?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Also, the silicone ducting pieces to connect the ducting all together.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001OMK53K?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Finally, the filter. It's a K&N but it worked fine in my case.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AFRIVNQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Awesome, thank you, I appreciate the info! I can definitely say turfing the original GN airbox and fabricating my own CAI, along with the necessary AXiS interface and chip burned for 93 octane, made a significant and noticeable performance improvement over stock. Ironically, I also bought all my stainless tubing, elbows and 9" K & N cone filter on Amazon.ca.

I think for a 1970 Charger, routing 4" or 5" tubing along the passenger side inside fender might be a challenge, the washer bottle would likely need to be relocated. But I really dig what you've come up with.

 

[Sir Dodge alot]

Awesome, thank you, I appreciate the info! I can definitely say turfing the original GN airbox and fabricating my own CAI, along with the necessary AXiS interface and chip burned for 93 octane, made a significant and noticeable performance improvement over stock. Ironically, I also bought all my stainless tubing, elbows and 9" K & N cone filter on Amazon.ca.

I think for a 1970 Charger, routing 4" or 5" tubing along the passenger side inside fender might be a challenge, the washer bottle would likely need to be relocated. But I really dig what you've come up with.

Thanks i appreciate it.

For sure, give that early 80's ECU a flash tune then let er' rip! Or is that an OBD I? A bit harder to tune then.

The ducting could also be routed a bit lower to the side of the fender. Somewhere around where the torsion bars sit?

 

[Coelacanth]

Thanks i appreciate it.

For sure, give that early 80's ECU a flash tune then let er' rip! Or is that an OBD I? A bit harder to tune then.

The ducting could also be routed a bit lower to the side of the fender. Somewhere around where the torsion bars sit?

GN's are actually very tuneable. It's OBD1, the protocol was called ALDL. I installed an ALDL Bluetooth adapter inside the center console and there are 2 apps on my Android phone to monitor and log everything, ALDLdroid is the main one and Torque Pro. Back in the day, guys would buy an expensive tool called the Scanmaster, but with the Bluetooth adapter, you can do everything and more with your cellphone.

Most CAI's are positioned like mine, though some indeed route downward with a hole and ducting cut in the black plastic spoiler beneath the bumper, but then you have a bit of work removing the charcoal canister and other stuff to get the ducting down there. I was fine with removing parts but not cutting anything up.