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New torsion bar bolts?

koosh

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Went to adjust ride height on 68 Charger…, passenger side torsion bar bolt easily accessible, with a socket sliding over it into the lower A frame.
Drivers side- the bolt is too close to the slot in A frame, and can’t grab it with any tool. Do they make “longer” bolts, and where to get?
I’m only seeing complete kits which I don’t need
 
One or two things are troublesome to me.
1. Do your lower control arms need rebuilt?
2. Were your torsion bars installed correctly?
When adjusted correctly, none of the torsion bar bolts on my cars go into the hole. The last car that I rebuilt the lower control arms on Were close to going into the hole and was requiring frequent adjustments to maintain ride height.
 
All new front parts by previous owner…. Its just that the drivers side bolt is too close to the slot side for a socket to go over it.

IMG_6770.jpeg


IMG_6765.jpeg


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Maybe just cut the slot in the lower arm enough to fit a socket on tbe bolt?
Thought an easier route would be longer bolts if they’re available?
 
That bolt screws into a square plate that can be moved around a bit. If you jack the car up so the wheels are off the ground to take some of the pressure off that bolt you may be able to lever it over enough so you can get a socket on.
 
Went to adjust ride height on 68 Charger…, passenger side torsion bar bolt easily accessible, with a socket sliding over it into the lower A frame.
Drivers side- the bolt is too close to the slot in A frame, and can’t grab it with any tool. Do they make “longer” bolts, and where to get?
I’m only seeing complete kits which I don’t need
You need a deep socket.
 
Also have a look at the lower control arm shaft sleeve in the K. Cracked welds, other damage will allow it to rotate and could be your issue.
 
While we are on the subject, is there any approximation how much adjustment is produced in height? 1 turn = 1/2" or what ever.
Somewhere close would be good. I spent a lot of time up and down off the creeper yesterday adjusting mine. (70 years old and 250# is a wrong combination for that) I got it close but I need to do some fine tuning yet. Also a FYI, bouncing the front didn't do much for me. A trip around the block was much better and made a big difference.
 
Unless you have a sliding plate under the front wheels, like a frontend rack, bouncing it up and down isn't going to do much.
 
Also have a look at the lower control arm shaft sleeve in the K. Cracked welds, other damage will allow it to rotate and could be your issue.
Control arms all new, but thanks
 
That bolt screws into a square plate that can be moved around a bit. If you jack the car up so the wheels are off the ground to take some of the pressure off that bolt you may be able to lever it over enough so you can get a socket on.
I’ll give that a try! Thanks
 
Am aware of the deep socket, currently there’s no room for it ! Lol
I didn't see your photo when I commented. Those control arms have been boxed and you will need to enlarge the opening so the socket fits. You might be able to find a thin wall socket but they are not strong.
 
I didn't see your photo when I commented. Those control arms have been boxed and you will need to enlarge the opening so the socket fits. You might be able to find a thin wall socket but they are not strong.
Sounds good!
 
Looks to me that whoever welded on the stiffening plates didn't pay enough attention to centering them. Not a big deal, just grind out enough to get a socket in there.
 
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