Newb question: How do you remove a 68 440 exhaust manifold?

[68 Chris]

Sorry for the mispel

I am trying to remove the exhaust manifold and the shop manuel was no help. Do I have to remove the studs from the head to get it off? Two of the studs are down holes in the manifold and the other three are exposed. The Manaul just says to remove the nuts and remove the manifold. I can't do that because it's so close to the fender if I try to remove it the fender inner will stop it. Any help would be appreciated.:icon_eyes:
There is probably an easy solution but that is why I'm asking here.

Chris

 

[Meep-Meep]

Are you talking about the long tube type nuts not being able to clear the inner fender? If so all you need to do is get them off the end of the stud and everything should come out together. With any luck you won't have much rust to deal with.

 

[70rr-brian]

What Meep said. And depending on how long they have been attached...sometimes they get stuck on there pretty good. Giving the illusion the bolts are still attached. A few wacks with a rubber mallet should loosen it.

 

[detmatt1]

Presoak with PB Blaster or other good penetrating oils also can be very helpful. I'll start soaking assemblies that I will be taking apart with PB the day before depending on what it is.

 

[68 Chris]

the studs off the head are too long and I can't slide off the Manifold.

I have all the nuts and the 2 tube nuts off. However one of the tube nuts has a stud rusted into place so it pulled the stud right out of the head. I'm going to try and remove the stud from the tube nut today. I'm also going to see if a longer bolt will work because this stud grabs but if I wiggle it the bolt pulls right out. Anyways that's another issue. I just don't have enough room to get the manifold off. Are the studs in the head too long? They don't look too long. I can't just pull off the manifold the studs are too long and the inner fender is too close. That is why I was asking if I have to remove the studs from the head?

:brainfart:

 

[68 Chris]

Another question, The reason I am removing is because of a exhaust leak. Is this a comomn thing with these engines? It looks like the previous owner just gooped on the red gasket sealer. So I am removing it and checking for flush properties at the manifold and at the head. this is my first issue that I am taking care of on this car and it doens't have many so hopefully this is it for a while. I was just wondering if Exhaust manifold warpage was common?

 

[roadrunnerman]

exhaust leaks will happen,since the PO just used gasket sealer.you will need a good grade exhaust manifold gasket, no need to use any gasket sealer with it.As far as manifold warpage, i have never heard of it happening.It would have to be ALOTof heat to do that.

 

[68 Chris]

Manifold leak,

Roadrunner,
The PO had a gasket in there but he put red gasket sealer on as well. I'm going to check the head too to make sure tha it is nice and flat. I talked to someone today at Great Lakes Mopar and he told me that the studs on my head aren't original and they are too long. That is why I can't remove it. He told me to loosen the motor mount and jack up the passenger side of the engine to slide it off. Could someone that has a 68 440 take a picure of the front stud that goes through the header on the passenger side? He told my about 3/4 of an inch is all tha should be coming out of the head to attach the exhaust manifold.

Chris:blob1:

 

[Meep-Meep]

The factory never used gaskets but once the original installation has been disturbed you will need a gasket or a manifold resurface. Jacking up the engine may work or you can just cut the end off the tube nut that has the stud stuck in it. I'd say the studs will stick out about 3/4" - 1" but they only go into the head about 1/2".

 

[detmatt1]

You're actually lucky the stud came out because those can be a real bitch and are commonly broken off before they back out.

 

[68 Chris]

Thanks for the advice,

I am having a threading problem with the thread from the stud staying in the head. The tube nut has the stud stuck in it. i just took it out of the tube nut yesterday. I am actually taking the manifold to the machine shop to be replaned tomorrow. Should I use a gasket even with the replaning of the manifold surface? Thanks for your help guys, I'm listening to all this good advice.

Chris

 

[68 Chris]

Ok, Manifold is off, Studs comeing out of the head are all junk, They need to come out. I sprayed them with Kroil tonight. I hope with a little heat tomorrow they will come right out. I'm glad the manifold came off. It is warped very badly. I checked the head and it's level. The Manifold two center ports pulled away from the block. I'm having it planed tomorrow at a local shop.

 

[detmatt1]

That's good news. Your best bet at getting the studs out of the block is going to be with the double nut method. Turn one of the manifold nuts onto the stud almost as far as it'll go and leave a box end wrench on it and then thread another one on and tighten the second to the first. Use the box wrench you left on the first to remove the stud. You may have to really torque the 2 nuts together to keep them from both spinning off the stud together. Best of luck!

 

[68 Chris]

Double nut stud retraction

That's good news. Your best bet at getting the studs out of the block is going to be with the double nut method. Turn one of the manifold nuts onto the stud almost as far as it'll go and leave a box end wrench on it and then thread another one on and tighten the second to the first. Use the box wrench you left on the first to remove the stud. You may have to really torque the 2 nuts together to keep them from both spinning off the stud together. Best of luck!

Matt,
I tried that last night and one of the bolts is missing threads and when I tighten up the second bolt it tightens then just loosens, Tightens then loose. So I have to heat this baby up and get out the vice grips. I'll try the double nut with the other studs that have nicer threads. This one is just eaten away right where the manifold meeets the nut that held it on. Thanks!

Chris

 

[BuckNeccid]

68 Chris, what do you think of the Kroil? I've been using it for a couple years now, and it's the only penetrant that is in my garage. Expensive but worth it?

 

[super-bee_ski]

BuckNeccid is correct!
Kroil is the best penetrant. I work at Edwards AFB CA. That stuff is used extensively.

 

[Garys1969RR]

Clamp vise grips onto the problem stud as tight as you can. Use the good penetrating oil. Once the stud starts to loosen it should come on out. Clean the head thread with a tap. When you put in the new studs, apply sealant as some of the studs go into water jackets. Good luck!

 

[68 Chris]

Kroil is King!

68 Chris, what do you think of the Kroil? I've been using it for a couple years now, and it's the only penetrant that is in my garage. Expensive but worth it?

I use it on all the bolts so far and everything has come out like butter. I have a friend that turned me on to it and nothing else has the strength of this stuff. That is a excellent product. I don't know why everyone doesn't use it. Every bolt that is being removed in my garage get a shot of Kroil. For the time and busted knuckles it saves me the price is worth it.

Chris

 

[milit73]

Good luck getting those bolts out!!!!!!! Where do you buy that stuff you guys are talking about?

 

[BuckNeccid]

Check them out@ www.Kanolabs.com or e-mail them@ [email protected]

Supposedly they only sell to commercial ventures, but that's pretty liberal as to what a commercial venture is And about every 2-3 months I'll get a flyer from them telling me what is on special, and although it's still relatively expensive, just a little works, so in the long run, it's cheaper. Aerokroil or Silikroil