Next piece of the puzzle

[rumblefish360]

Great info and a good reminder!

 

[gregsdart]

Doug, my lower balljoint/tierod hole on my dart elongated and allowed a severe wheel woble due to the slop. It was caused in part by a bad shock, and i couldn't feel it till it got real bad when braking hard. So i will be checking them closely annually. The setup you have may be prone to that, especially if a shock wears out. This would most likely only be a problem if a straight bolt is used, rather than a tapered tie rod end.

 

[dvw]

The stud is tapered. It bolts in just like the factory tie rod. The correct taper for a Mopar is the same as a Mustang 2/Pinto. GM is a different taper. I dii have to grind the bottom of the steering arm just a touch so it didn't bottom out on the hex at the bottom of the tapered portion of the stud. Been in the car 9 years. The heim on one side was a little loose so it got 2 new ones. I hadn't rechecked toe pattern after the last alignment. Just goes to show a small caster change affects the toe curve.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Adju...bpAY184oioE7LhXFcKx74rD_YryML8iIaAp4sEALw_wcB
Doug

 

[gregsdart]

Excellent. I wish i knew about the adapters when i first built the car.

 

[dvw]

Carb is fixed and on its way back. Decided to look at the brakes and bearings on the 2004 trailer. 2 broken shoes, 1 suspect bearing. Drums look great. Bought one axle worth of shoes $84. Replaced the bearing. Cleaned and packed all the bearings. Ordered up 4 loaded backing plates with shoes and magnets, $199 for all 4. No use just replacing shoes. Found 1 flat spotted tire. Ordered that up as well. It's good enough to make it to the 1st test sesion Friday.
Doug

 

[dvw]

Well brake testing the trailer didn't go so well. No stopping power. Read up on electric brakes. They state a properly function magnet draws about 3 amps per wheel. All 6 wheels showed about 1.75 amps each. Output to the trailer only was 8 volts as well (should be running vehicle voltage at max output). The time based controller it had was designed for 2 axles. The 14 gauge feed wire was speced for 2 axles as well. My trailer is a 3 axle. Decided to step into the 2020's and buy a progressive brake controller. $52 Amazon 15 hr shipping. Installed it today along with a 12 gauge feed wire to the hitch plug. Like night and day. It'll actually lock the trailer brakes. Braking is very smooth as well. Carb body is supposed to be here tomorrow.
Doug

 

[biomedtechguy]

progressive brake controller

Worth every penny!
I had one installed on the H2 I used to have, and it would lock the brakes on a trailer as well, if turned up too much.
It had a slide, with an extended triangle, almost like a volume control image, to indicate relative force or output.

 

[dvw]

Carb body was delivered today. Put it all together and bolted it on. Stange? it moved on the manifold. Pulled both carbs back off and locktited the carb anti reversion plates. Every time I use any gaskets with this intake they loosen up. I use RTV on the upper lid. The fuel eats the RTV on the plates. Anyway after that it was finally ready. Fired up in 1/2 revolution. Ran nice. Idle oil pressure is much higher with the new lifter bushing, 50-55psi. Upper rpm looks around 70-75. No leaks. Trans has all the gears. Test Friday. The video won't load, to big
Doug

 

[biomedtechguy]

The video won't load, to big

Upload it to YouTube and then choose "Share" on YouTube to post a link here!!
STOP making us WAIT!

 

[MarPar]

Upload it to YouTube and then choose "Share" on YouTube to post a link here!!
STOP making us WAIT!

Concur!!!

 

[dvw]

I used to do most of the dyno testing for a local builder(his dyno).
Most of the engines tested were Chevies.
With roller cams, they all have the same edge orifice type oiling for the pushrods.
It wasn’t at all uncommon to have a few stubborn lifters that took quite I while before the oil would flow out of the rockers.
I’m talking like 5 minutes of continuous priming while bumping the motor over with the starter.
Once the oil started flowing........ they were fine.

Only once was there one that had a few holes that just wouldn’t flow.
Turned out those lifter bores had essentially zero clearance.
We never had to connect the feed hole to the band for oil to go up top.

I tested a low deck 511 that had Jesel rockers on it and pushrod oiling.
The engine owner and his builder didn’t like the look of the edge orifice oiling situation at the lifter, and did a similar type of groove as you did.
Totally flooded the top end and sucked the pan dry in like 2/3 of a pull.
Granted, it was a smaller pan than what you’re running.

Hopefully you have a better result.

I think you should get an idea of what’s going to happen when you prime it.

The restricted pushrods will only flow what they flow, but the lifter is on the base circle for more degrees than it isn’t(creating lash)........ and how much oil will be leaking between the lifter and the pushrod when it’s on the base circle(which is a leak in the system “before” the restriction in the pushrod).

Real life testing of the lifter grooves. It had 60psi@1500/80psi@7000 with 165 oil temp. Lucas 10w 30 break in oil. No oil in the vacuum pump resevoir after 6 passes. There is no baffle on the vacuum pump inlet. If anything I'm going to try the stock 440 oil pump spring to lower the pressure a tad. Valve Co ers don't appear to be flooding.
Doug

 

[biomedtechguy]

Real life testing of the lifter grooves. It had 60psi@1500/80psi@7000 with 165 oil temp. Lucas 10w 30 break in oil. No oil in the vacuum pump resevoir after 6 passes. There is no baffle on the vacuum pump inlet. If anything I'm going to try the stock 440 oil pump spring to lower the pressure a tad. Valve Co ers don't appear to be flooding.
Doug

Sounds like it's doing well.
What oil pressure are you looking for to play with lowering it "a tad"?
The thing I was cautioned about was too much oil pressure makes "less cushion" and too high a volume when not properly directed can drain the oil pan.

 

[dvw]

Like it to be closer to 70psi@7000.
Doug