Next piece of the puzzle

[dvw]

I can trim the nuts easy enough. The spacers have to be trimmed from 1.25" diameter to 1.125". Todays project.
Couldn't just have Dzus on a old school racecar. Got to have pins. But the plates with rivets just don't do the carbon hood justice. My friend Dave (home made hood and scoop) and Ted ( blocking and paint) worked to hard to make a race piece look way better than it should. So my friend Paul whipped up some nice aluminum plates that keep most of the pin up and away keeping scratches to a minimum. Couldn't have built this car without my buddies. Problem is the hood curves where the front pins come thru. See pic 3. The solution? Bend them in the press. Then stick sandpaper to the original hood and sand in the contour. They are thin and hard to hold. Made a tool out of a bolt. Took a little while but now the fit is really good. They will be held on with some ultra stick two faced tape. Guess I better spring for some new pins. Yes I'm a detail nut.
Doug

 

[Fran Blacker]

Detail nut, no such thing as good enough for you. Done right is the only way.

 

[gregsdart]

With your heads cut quite a bit, valve notchs start to get pretty deep. I have heard it helps to lay the intake back a bit to help flow during overlap. I have never done it, just read it in one of David Vizzards books. It would be nice to have solid info on it for our combo's. I can see though that many things could affect results.

 

[dvw]

With your heads cut quite a bit, valve notchs start to get pretty deep. I have heard it helps to lay the intake back a bit to help flow during overlap. I have never done it, just read it in one of David Vizzards books. It would be nice to have solid info on it for our combo's. I can see though that many things could affect results.

My notches are laid back some. The real need for the notches to be so deep is to keep the compression reasonable. Even a flat top with 11cc worth of notch sets the ratio at 15-1. Have to pull the heads back off today a portion of the head gasket wont allow the #4 #5 exhaust pushrods to fit.
Doug

 

[padam]

My notches are laid back some. The real need for the notches to be so deep is to keep the compression reasonable. Even a flat top with 11cc worth of notch sets the ratio at 15-1. Have to pull the heads back off today a portion of the head gasket wont allow the #4 #5 exhaust pushrods to fit.
Doug

One step up and two steps back, huh?

 

[dvw]

Boy am I dumb. Always think simple. Words to live by. I should pay attention to my own words. This is the 3rd pair of Cometics I've used in this motor. Never had an issue before. Pulled the heads trimmed the gaskets. Clamped the gaskets between two pieces of wood and cut off the excess. Deburred all 5 layers. The stainless center layer is tough. The piece I cut off looked symmetrical. Humm? Cleaned off the RTV from the valley plate. Relubed all the studs. Reinstalled and torqued the heads. Number 5 pushrod still looked odd. upon looking further I see the issue. The motor has off set cups in the intake lifters. I had the #5 lifter pair rotated around with the exhaust and intake lifters swapped. Getting old. Should have investigated further. Anyway is all together except the pan and oil pump.
Doug

 

[gregsdart]

I know the feeling about getting old. At 72 it takes me forever to assemble a motor. Multiple checks to make sure everything goes together right.

 

[MarPar]

 

[dvw]

Ah today. With the crank scraper, the oil pan studs are too short. A trip to the parts store. Then double nut all 20 to remove, and double nut all 20 to install.
Doug

 

[dvw]

At the end of the puzzle. It goes in the car without the intake as it's so bulky. Now just waiting on the axles to be drilled and the front shocks.
Doug

 

[biomedtechguy]

Ah today. With the crank scraper, the oil pan studs are too short. A trip to the parts store. Then double nut all 20 to remove, and double nut all 20 to install.
Doug

D'OH!!

 

[Fizz66Coronet]

I see an 8.95 @152 coming soon

 

[dvw]

Getting so close. Worked my way thru the 5/8" studs. The old Americans (mid 60s vintage) took a little work in the lug holes. Slow trim and fit as not oversize. Then the nuts a spacers won't clear the spokes. Machined the flanges down and had my buddy John whip up some correct size set of spacers. Rolled the car over on the hoist. Got the bottom and the engine compartment cleaned up. It's been setting since the motor broke and then over to my Friend Teds for paint touch up. Oil and body work dust, yuk. Anyway it cleaned up well considering this is year 10 since it was built.
Doug

 

[dvw]

Another day of forward and backward. Aired up the crankcase. Sprayed the entire engine with soapy water. No bubbles. So we'll have a dry motor. Filled it up with oil and primed it. 75 psi, good. Under the valve covers pretty dry, not good. Pulled the valley inspection plate and one set of lifters. The bushing holes have plenty of oil. The old lifter bushings were pretty sloppy. Some over .003" I theorize that it isn't flowing enough oil between the the lifter and the bushing due to the decreased lifter to bushing clearance now at .0015". The bushing hole and the lifter feed holes are not in line by design. A quick call to T&D confirmed my suspicion. The cure? A small notch between the oil band and the push rod feed hole. So out come all 8 pair of tappets. Grind, clean, and reinstall. Check all the valve lash again. Reprime watching the oil around the lifters in the block and the oil at the valve tips, plenty. Reseal the valley inspection plate. At the same time I've pulled apart a friends 727 racecar trans for upgrades. He's here cleaning all the parts. I rope him in to guiding the motor in the hole. 10 minutes and it's finally bolted in. Trans install and other components this morning.
Doug

 

[PRHeads]

Wow!!

That is a huge slot you put in there for the lifters.

Normally a “scratch” is all that’s needed.

 

[dvw]

Agreed, I went with what T&D told me. Only to hole opposite of the feed hole was cut. it really just acts a a wider oil band. I have to believe that it won't flow anymore than the sloppy lifter bore clearance did. Previously the push rods were restricted to control oil pressure. So flow shouldn't be able to overcome that area? Your thoughts?
Doug

 

[PRHeads]

I used to do most of the dyno testing for a local builder(his dyno).
Most of the engines tested were Chevies.
With roller cams, they all have the same edge orifice type oiling for the pushrods.
It wasn’t at all uncommon to have a few stubborn lifters that took quite I while before the oil would flow out of the rockers.
I’m talking like 5 minutes of continuous priming while bumping the motor over with the starter.
Once the oil started flowing........ they were fine.

Only once was there one that had a few holes that just wouldn’t flow.
Turned out those lifter bores had essentially zero clearance.
We never had to connect the feed hole to the band for oil to go up top.

I tested a low deck 511 that had Jesel rockers on it and pushrod oiling.
The engine owner and his builder didn’t like the look of the edge orifice oiling situation at the lifter, and did a similar type of groove as you did.
Totally flooded the top end and sucked the pan dry in like 2/3 of a pull.
Granted, it was a smaller pan than what you’re running.

Hopefully you have a better result.

I think you should get an idea of what’s going to happen when you prime it.

The restricted pushrods will only flow what they flow, but the lifter is on the base circle for more degrees than it isn’t(creating lash)........ and how much oil will be leaking between the lifter and the pushrod when it’s on the base circle(which is a leak in the system “before” the restriction in the pushrod).

 

[dvw]

Hopefully that isn't the situation. I guess the good thing is the bushing hole doesn't appear to be in the oil band when the valve is closed. The intake hole is offset due to the offset pushrod cup. So it never directly lines up with bushing hole. The exhaust hole intersects at some point during tappet lift. Even with groove the intakes don't flow alot like the exhaust until we'll into the lift curve. Somewhere over .500" by eye. To be honest I never looked to see how much oil went up top previously. But for sure it didn't stay dry through 3-4 minutes of priming like this time. The oil pressure never dropped on accell even with as low as 6.5 qts in the pan itself. So I guess the question is; Can the groove feeding the pushrod outflow the additional area from the previous loose lifter bores? If not its worked for 9 years 750 passes. The pushrod cups always look like new. Pac 1224 springs retained installed pressure after 300 runs. So what ever amount was going up top it liked. The rod bearings looked like new at 475 passes. (not counting the one that failed from what I believe was due to the smashed pan). When I first built it the push rod holes were about .107". Max oil pressure was 45 psi with the adjuster screw all the way in on the pump relief valve. Roll pins were pressed into them. That reduced it to .04x". Had to back the pump adjuster all the way out. Also ended up cutting a coil off the relief spring to get the pressure down to 70psi with 5w25 oil. At worst I'll pull it apart and plug the feed holes I grooved. That's for your input.
Doug

 

[PRHeads]

I suspect the oil hole in the bushing not having access to the band 100% of the time, along with the restricted pushrods might be all you need to not have too much top end oiling.
Imo.....”ideally” the band in the lifter would have full time pressure.
The pushrod feed holes would be parallel to the lifter axles(for a Mopar), and the lifter to bore clearance would be adequate(but not excessive) to allow sufficient oiling without needing to add a channel to the lifter to connect the band to the feed hole.

On the Chevies, once everything is purged and primed....... using the priming tool results in oil flowing from the rockers almost immediately after starting to run the drill.

 

[dvw]

Argghh will it ever end? Went to start the motor yesterday. No pump shot from the rear carb. After some quick checks we found the outlet check valve seats were about .070" too high. When the squirter screw was tightened the check weight was bottomed in the seat blocking the squirter nozzle. So that body went back today for repair. Today installed new heims. Checked the toe in the air and on the ground. 1/4" toe-in change when it was at ride height. Consulted the old Direct Connection chassis manual. The manual stated that the outer tie rod needed to be lowered .100" per 3/32" toe change. Found some .058" hardened washers in my stash. Two washers on each (.116") heim. Now there is zero toe change. Never discount those old manuals. Lots of good information in them. The picture shows a pointer showing the washers. Doesn't take much. Think about that when you mess with caster. Caster changes move the height of the outer tie rod. Also took time to build a 727 for a friends 66 Satellite that's getting a fresh 512 wit Trick Flow 270's and a big roller. Got to stay busy to stay young.
Doug