No Brake Lights.

[Nacho-RT74]

When brake lights fail you could try to replace the canceling cam and try to save the original switch. This assembly consist on a points and springs system that spreads the signal around accordingly to its position. These can get worn or weak.

Canceling cams are available and not expensive. It worths the try. Sure the rest of assembly (not just the cam side) gets worn too, but at least enlarges its operational life a bit more.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

The O.E. was failure prone and Repops are only a little worse.. I am hoping LED's help them survive longer.

They use to fail due the points friction actually, more than the load on them.

If points could be restored but… regular lead is not hard enough to last long to the friction, and try to add brass will melt the plastic due the higher melting temp.

 

[70ChargerRT]

When brake lights fail you could try to replace the canceling cam and try to save the original switch. This assembly consist on a points and springs system that spreads the signal around accordingly to its position. These can get worn or weak.

Canceling cams are available and not expensive. It worths the try. Sure the rest of assembly (not just the cam side) gets worn too, but at least enlarges its operational life a bit more.

In post#15 I’d mentioned I had already replaced the cam last year. I knew something was up last year because my flashers started to stick when I would pull them out and now the brake lights quit. I didn’t take a pic but in that area of the flashers those wires looked pretty bad. Now everything is working back to normal. Appreciate the advice!!!

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Sorry, missed that!

 

[mountain33]

Had similar issue. it was the turn signal. I just repaired it. Its been a couple of years. So far so good

 

[Nacho-RT74]

BTW, on 70 and laters, the brake lights signal is also related to the hazzards function. Sure if the hazzard switch section begins to fail, then the fix could be harder, since no service parts for that section. Just imagination could be the solution (thinking out of the box)

Maybe the replacement turning switches could become on donor parts for the original. True the problem with 70s (and earliers 71 production) is the knob size/design making an imposible straight replacement with the ones available, BUT they work the same than 70. So maybe combining parts you could get the 70 piece in working order yet.

In fact I parted out the hazzard switch section removing the knob/shaft and points assembly from a fully broken turning switch assembly and seems to be doable.