no fire in the hole??

[northeastmoparnet]

Hi, My 383 car I just acquired started and ran fine several times when I got her home. For no reason she died on me. It is set up with a 4 pin electronic orange box and a single ballast resistor. I first took my timing light and hooked it up on a plug wire and turned the engine over. My timing light will not light. I am assuming I have no power. I placed my ohm meter across the ballast resistor and it was reading crazy **** like 160 190 instead of the 1.5. I checked it for power with the key on. Did not seem to get and reading close to 12 volts. Checked for power at the coil and was the same, crazy readings? Can someone here guide me as to how to detail check the system in order to determine where the failure may be?? It started several times and warmed up and just died one day. I dumped gas in the carb but iot will crank but no fire in the hole.

 

[Beekeeper]

Check the fusible link

 

[tak419]

Ok a couple things. The timing light is not gonna light just by you cranking the car over so skip the time my light for now and let's check the basics. The best way to check spark is with an online spark plug tester. If you don't have one then pull the plug. it's possible your plugs are fouled. Clean the spark plug, put it in the boot and put it on a good ground source such as exhaust manifold and have a friend crank the car " with a fully charged battery". If the spark plug has no sparking then check other items. As for the ballast, you need to be sure the harness is disconnected before you test it or your readings will be all over, you didn't say whether is was connected or in connected when you tested it. The orange boxes are know for failure. There are online sources on how to test them. You need to test to see if you have current out of the box to the distributor also. Start with the basics and pull a plug or two and check them and go from there. Keep us posted.

 

[Lefty71]

Start with looking at this diagram to ensure you are only looking for 12 volts where it should be, and when it should be, meaning whether key ON or key cranking. I would not necessarily pay attention to the wire colors on this diagram tho. Don't just throw parts at it by any means, but if you are stumped and you have a spare box or coil, that may help you along. HTH, Lefty71

 

[Don Frelier]

I do disagree with the claim that a timing light won't work while cranking the engine. It certainly should work.
Otherwise the other suggestions are good.
Likely a bad orange box.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

becarefull with that diagram. The yellow wire arriving to ballast and coming from Starter relay is a lates 70s thing. Up to 74 at least comes from ign switch in a brown wire

 

[Ranger16]

I have the same engine and set up as yours. Had the same problem several years ago. It turned out to be a bad ECU (orange box). In my case it died due to a bad (old style mechanical) voltage regulator over charging. A new ECU (and electronic regulator) cured it. I now carry a spare.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Look at the back of the ECU,many time when it goes bad you can see where the resin melted!

 

[northeastmoparnet]

I thought the timing light should blink just turning the motor over. The coil should be sending a spark down the wire while just turning over, I think?? I now just found out that the orange boxes have been discontinued by Mopar? I ordered a generic one from Standard Ignition. Probably who made them anyway. LOL...

 

[Don Frelier]

Maybe order 2 boxes...
And yes the timing light should work while cranking, if it doesn't you definitely have a problem.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Me thinks if I were in you shoes and wanted the OE look,,,,I would hide an MSD system and benefit from a modern sparkolation

 

[northeastmoparnet]

Me thinks if I were in you shoes and wanted the OE look,,,,I would hide an MSD system and benefit from a modern sparkolation

Ya. Have to get there. I changed the ballast resistor and tried it. Cranked but would not fire. I then installed a new aftermarket ECU and tried it. She fired right up but then ran for about 5 seconds and stalled out. I tried to restart. It went back to the crank but no fire? I am now looking toward the coil, or the voltage regulator I also picked up a new volt ohm meter with a needle. Non of that digital stuff for me. I like seeing the full spectrum of numbers and a needle. Maybe that has to do with my age....

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

The more you throw at it the more the MSD cost. You might figure it out after replacing everything..................

 

[northeastmoparnet]

The more you throw at it the more the MSD cost. You might figure it out after replacing everything..................

Buying an MSD box might work, but then I will never learn what went wrong? I am testing various things to try and figure what the issue is. I just bought this car so I really have no history with it. So I am trying to feel it out. I did upgrade my Demon 340/416 stroker with all MSD stuff and it runs really nice.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Sorry,I'm that old guy that been there. Nothing wrong with your thinking

 

[northeastmoparnet]

Sorry,I'm that old guy that been there. Nothing wrong with your thinking

well, the way it fired right up and then died makes me now wonder if it is not a loose wire/connection/ground somewhere. Being in Boston, the temps have been down and up. I know low temperatures play hell with electrical connections. I am going to try and look close at all the under hood wires and connections and bulkhead connector before changing anything else. I did pick up a new cap and rotor in case there is a crack there,

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Many times if it starts at the hit and dies when you let go of the key it's a bad ignition switch.Does the ballast resister have one or 2 wires going to the feed side?