No start

[bigmanjbmopar]

I may have missed it but fuel is getting to the carb right? If it is it sounds like a wiring issue, are you sure you are getting juice to the coil from the electronic ignition? everything looks brand new. The sound I am hearing is a lagging starter, it should have way more torque sound and be much faster spinning, I think your starter may also be the issue if the wiring is all there, starter not spinning fast enough to ignite?

 

[Daves69]

Just copied and pasted your link in post 20. Didn't see a 440!

This one turned out to be a plug wire issue...................

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=304212&page=2

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Hard cranking. Bad starter? Flooded cylinders?

 

[Hemi Rebel]

Its sounds like either the timing is too far advanced, you have voltage drop from the battery to the starter, weak ground or weak starter. Try unplugging the distributor and turning it over. See if it spins any faster

 

[Lets Roll]

I grabbed this from the video . Mine is firing in this order. It starts with about as much starter as you have. It is probably a fuel problem if your getting hot spark and the compression is there. I have heard of cylinders getting washed down with gas and not having compression even after they dry. Not sure would have to be there to see it. Hope you get it soon.

 

[69dc]

Tried that this morning and it didn't seem to make any difference. Thanks.

 

[Coronet 14]

Will it fire on Starter Fluid. If it does you could have a fuel delivery issue

 

[69dc]

Here's an update on the no start Charger. I ran into an old friend who worked at two of the areas Chevy dealers, one as the service manager, and is currently semi-retired and working at a local garage when they need help. He came over last night to give me a hand. We started with all of the basics, spark at the coil, check, spark at the dizzy, check, spark at the plugs, check, fuel to the carb, check, run it up to tdc #1 compression stroke and check rotor on #1 plug, check. No start. Coming back tomorrow for further investigation.

 

[Hemirunner]

Did you verify that the former owner got the new cam in correctly? Assuming that you checked everything and were correct in your procedures, it should have fired. Did you check voltage to the coil in both the start and run positions? Did do a compression test? It takes fuel, spark and compression to make it fire. The timing of it all is also important. Hopefully that cam survives all this.

 

[69dc]

Yes we have spark in both. Compression check went from 110 to 143. I agree that timing seems to be the questionable component but it checked OK. Maybe we'll find an answer tomorrow.

 

[Hemirunner]

Any luck?

 

[69dc]

Yep, finally got it running tonight. I guessed that the slow cranking issue was due to something in the bottom end being to tight. I dropped the pan and I could see that the wrist pins were dry and there was a film of rust on the bottom of the cylinder walls. The engine hadn't been run for a long time obviously. So I poured a couple ounces of 5 weight oil in each cylinder and sprayed Blaster all over everything on the bottom end. I let it sit for a day then started working the crank back and forth until everything turned freely. Put it back together and it fired tonight. My new problem is I don't have any gauge readings on my fuel, temp or oil pressure. Checked the black wire out of the ignition switch and it's hot. Got power up to the 5 pin plug into the gauge connector on the cluster. Sure hope I don't have a bad circuit board.

 

[moparedtn]

That part sounds more like the voltage limiter for the gauges.
Congrats on getting it running, though. Way to stick with it!

 

[69dc]

I have voltage on the black wire from the ignition switch and at the back of the 5 pin connector. Where do I test the voltage limiter from there?

 

[moparedtn]

I have voltage on the black wire from the ignition switch and at the back of the 5 pin connector. Where do I test the voltage limiter from there?

Unfortunately, the voltage limiter plugs in to the back of the circuit board in the instrument cluster.
I just went through all this with my '68 GTX's gauges, too. I had no temp or gas gauge function, either.
No dash lights to boot.

Wound up taking the cluster out, re-soldering some loose pins on the main connector, replacing the voltage limiter with a digital one I found on ebay (pricy but worth every penny) and replacing all light sockets and bulbs.

Replaced that pricy dimmer switch (you would be amazed what all Mopar ran to THAT switch - they used it for a junction point for a LOT of things you'd never expect) and everything came back to life on the instrument panel after all that.
There's a fella on eBay who rebuilds the dimmer switches and does a fantastic job of it.

Of course, there's also a new sending unit in the gas tank, too....
This car sat in the mud behind a barn for years, so you can imagine the shape the wiring was in. All good now.

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Oh, and if you haven't already - get a factory service manual for the car. The wiring diagrams alone are worth the cost.

 

[66Satellite47]

Unfortunately, the voltage limiter plugs in to the back of the circuit board in the instrument cluster.
I just went through all this with my '68 GTX's gauges, too. I had no temp or gas gauge function, either.
No dash lights to boot.

Wound up taking the cluster out, re-soldering some loose pins on the main connector, replacing the voltage limiter with a digital one I found on ebay (pricy but worth every penny) and replacing all light sockets and bulbs.

Replaced that pricy dimmer switch (you would be amazed what all Mopar ran to THAT switch - they used it for a junction point for a LOT of things you'd never expect) and everything came back to life on the instrument panel after all that.
There's a fella on eBay who rebuilds the dimmer switches and does a fantastic job of it.

Of course, there's also a new sending unit in the gas tank, too....
This car sat in the mud behind a barn for years, so you can imagine the shape the wiring was in. All good now.

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Oh, and if you haven't already - get a factory service manual for the car. The wiring diagrams alone are worth the cost.

Ed, Thanks you've given a great suggestion regarding the dimmer switch. A buddy of mine is experiencing dash/gauge issues. You've pointed me to something else to check.

 

[69dc]

Well, you are spot on with your diagnosis. I just looked up a google pic to see where the limiter plugs in and I don't have one. Found the empty connector holes in the board. Now my question is where do I find a quality voltage limiter?

 

[moparedtn]

Well, you are spot on with your diagnosis. I just looked up a google pic to see where the limiter plugs in and I don't have one. Found the empty connector holes in the board. Now my question is where do I find a quality voltage limiter?

This is the one I have. Worked perfectly:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/161300759000?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

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Ed, Thanks you've given a great suggestion regarding the dimmer switch. A buddy of mine is experiencing dash/gauge issues. You've pointed me to something else to check.

Yessir, no worries.
A part of this cars' resurrection I didn't particularly enjoy, removing the instrument cluster was a chore...but absolutely necessary. Once on the bench, I could repair and replace as needed and bench test with 12V before putting it back in the car. These critters MUST have a good voltage limiter for fuel, temp, lights etc. to work - and a TON of stuff is wired through the dimmer, too.
Wiring diagram blew my mind first time I went through all this. I thought "dimmer=junction block?"
Even my side marker lamps came back to life after the new dimmer was put in.

 

[69dc]

In that pic I see a condenser looking cannister also. Is that required in my application? Does that wire attach to the limiter?

 

[moparedtn]

In that pic I see a condenser looking cannister also. Is that required in my application? Does that wire attach to the limiter?

That's a capacitor. It was there originally to cut down on noise in the radio from voltage regulator/gauge "noise". The gauges will work without it; it's not needed for them to function.
One would imagine an electronic regulator like we're talking about here wouldn't generate "noise" like the old points type regulators did, but I kept my capacitor on anyways. Can't hurt.

 

[hunt2elk]

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