No turn signals, no emergency flashers...no backup lights.

[jogirob]

Parking lights work normally. Brake function work normally. If I do emergency flashers it will light up indicators in the gauge cluster but neither front nor back exterior lights will flash. When I signal left or right nothing happens with the gauge cluster indicator or exterior lights.

I read through a couple threads where replacing the flasher solved the problem. What are the odds that both turn signal and 4way flashers are bad?

I almost wasn't going to mention the backup lights but maybe you guys know something I don't.

I'll be taking a closer look at all of the fuses and probably swap out the flashers just for the fun of it since they're pretty cheap. Just curious to hear your guys' take on it. Thanks all!

 

[jogirob]

I might as well mention the other electrical issues in case it relates...oil, fuel, and clock gauges are completely dead, cruise control doesn't activate. Also, it seems like only half of the gauge cluster lights up. Speedometer jumps erratically +/- 10 MPH from correct speed. Only the ammeter and temp gauge seem to be working properly.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

You have multiple problems, most of which are un-related.
1. signals...maybe flasher itself or crossed wires, or maybe the turn signal switch..... or all the signal parts of the bulbs (at least in rear) are burned out???
2. Odds are pretty good that both flashers are burned out...they go out a lot.
3. Backup lights - reverse switch, wiring, or maybe fuse (?)...I'm not sure if that runs through the turn signal switch or not...you need a wiring diagram FOR SURE
4. Oil/fuel gauges - sending units, wiring or gauges themselves.... "maybe" voltage limiter since so much stuff in your dash is bad.
5. Clock..."probably" rusted in place OR power wire going to it is bad
6. Speedometer - use some graphite on the speedometer cable, both ends...very common problem
7. Cruise control...check wiring diagram....OR maybe the ground going to the dash since you have so much in the dash that's not working right. Is there are 4" long black wire with a hoop on each end going from the steering column to the steering column support brackets, to right of the column underneath, and are the two connections clean/good?

 

[oldbee]

Purple has it right,BUT he forgot one thing—— grounds,check ‘em; everywhere!!

 

[jogirob]

Oooh boy, definitely enough to keep me busy for the next couple days. Crossing my fingers it's the flashers. I feel naked driving without them. Even in Sacramento where nobody uses em anyways I often find myself doing hand signals. >_<

 

[oldbee]

Oooh boy, definitely enough to keep me busy for the next couple days. Crossing my fingers it's the flashers. I feel naked driving without them. Even in Sacramento where nobody uses em anyways I often find myself doing hand signals. >_<

Yeah, I can think of ONE hand signal in particular!!

 

[jogirob]

Bad news. I found one of the flashers, not sure if it's the 4 way or signal. Anyways I swapped out the unit for a brand new one and nothing changed. Before doing anything I actually noticed that the 4 way flasher works for the front right signal marker only. It has a super wonky flash rate. I removed the new flasher and ran it without any flasher and the 4 way signals acts the same. I'm thinking the one I found belonged to the turn signals.
All fuses look to be in tact.
Dangit I'm going to have to follow wires (and scrub grounds) now

 

[5.7 hemi]

Push on the bulkhead connectors and try again.

 

[jogirob]

I found the 2nd flasher. I popped in a new replacement, disconnected and reconnected a few of the plugs that I think were the bulkhead connectors. I sanded down a few of the easy to get too grounding points. Also, fuse cavity 8 was empty. After getting a hold of the correct fuse box cavity labeling I saw that it's actually supposed to have something in there! #8 is attached to the turn signals, radio, backup light, and other stuff. I threw in a 20A fuse and was giddy with excitement. Although the fact that it was completely empty makes me think that the previous owner must've taken it out for a reason.

I fired up the car and put on the hazards. This time there was an audible clicking and the dashboard flash indicators seemed brighter. Unfortunately still only the front-right marker was blinking but at a more normal rate.

I tried the turn signals and only the dashboard left turn signal indicator worked, with no audible clicking, but none of the external lights flashed. Just solid on. Right turn signal has no internal or external function at all. Solid on.

I'll continue to work on some more grounding points and connectors. The aftermarket radio wiring is a real mess down there and is only adding to the confusion.

 

[typhoontx]

If the front and rear turn signal lights come on solid when the turn signal lever is up or down then pull the flasher.. the lights should turn off
if they don't you have some other issue either a wiring or grounds . when the grounds are not good at each bulb you can sometimes get real strange operation of the lights

 

[Shorthorse]

Don't pay too much attention to the flash rate. If you are using an original style flasher (non-electronic), it needs the current draw from all properly working bulbs to flash correctly. You might want try an electronic flasher just to get a more accurate visual reading.
If the brake lights are working properly, that should mean that the ground for those lamp sockets is present.
If you have the turn lever activated left or right, does the opposing rear brake light work properly when the brake is activated? Or, if you have the four ways on and apply the brakes, do the brake lights work in the rear?

 

[jogirob]

If the front and rear turn signal lights come on solid when the turn signal lever is up or down...

Sorry for the confusion, I meant the external lights remain solidly on *if I have parking/headlights on already*. As if the turn signals weren't activated at all.

 

[jogirob]

Don't pay too much attention to the flash rate. If you are using an original style flasher (non-electronic), it needs the current draw from all properly working bulbs to flash correctly. You might want try an electronic flasher just to get a more accurate visual reading.
If the brake lights are working properly, that should mean that the ground for those lamp sockets is present.
If you have the turn lever activated left or right, does the opposing rear brake light work properly when the brake is activated? Or, if you have the four ways on and apply the brakes, do the brake lights work in the rear?

Hmm an electronic flasher you say? I'll have to look into that. I know for a fact that the rear brake lights work normally whether headlights are on or not. I don't know what happens when I signal/4way and brake at the same time. I'll take a look when I get home.

 

[jogirob]

Hey! I just did a search on electronic flashers and it looks like you need these if you have an LED conversion. I'm 99% sure the tail lights are LED aftermarkets. Getting in contact with the previous owner just to make sure and to see if he ever got the stock flashers to play nicely after the LED tail light install.

***
OK so owner says they are LED bulbs in the stock housing. He never got the signals to work with the new bulbs. Fronts are 100% stock.

 

[typhoontx]

Hey! I just did a search on electronic flashers and it looks like you need these if you have an LED conversion. I'm 99% sure the tail lights are LED aftermarkets. Getting in contact with the previous owner just to make sure and to see if he ever got the stock flashers to play nicely after the LED tail light install.

***
OK so owner says they are LED bulbs in the stock housing. He never got the signals to work with the new bulbs. Fronts are 100% stock.

Yep you need a led flasher standard flashers are designed such that they need a specific # of incandescent blubs in order to operate, when your dash turn signal lamp goes on solid when you operate the turn signals it is a tell-tale that you have lost a front or rear turn signal

 

[oldbee]

Also, bad grounds will cause weird things to happen too.

 

[jogirob]

*Solved*
Thank you all for your contributions. It was a little bit of everything.

1. 2 wires from the turn signal switch to the tails were cut off to make room for custom intricate tail light wiring. Spliced em into the outer lights. Outers are my signals, inners are my brake lights.
   
2. Turn signal switch was bad. It had custom wiring work done on it that looks to have fell apart. Swapped out for a new one. For some reason hazards wouldn't shut up when testing the new switch. Fortunately I had a plethora of extra flashers (electric & conventional) and swapped em out for something that worked properly. Only after I fully torqued the steering wheel down that the hazard circuit appeared to be energizing the rear tail lights I spliced even with the key out so I pulled the hazard flasher. Looks like I still have emergency flashers with just the turn signal flasher. Guess I'll just have to keep the hazard flasher handy in case I need to turn the car off w/ hazards.
3. Front left bulb had poor grounding. Scrubbed off corrosion and rotated the socket around the lamp housing until I got a good contact.
4. Backup/neutral safety switch is bad...I think. No continuity between the 2 outer prongs on the switch when transmission is set to reverse. According to the FSM it says it should. I rigged up a set-up in hopes to get the backup lights to turn on by connecting the outer prongs to each other and then to a ground but nothing happened. I don't know I guess I just don't understand the setup.