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NON-MOPAR ISSUE...need a lil hepp !

tpodwdog

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i guys...im in dyre need of a fast lesson on changing a front wheel bearing on a 2003 GMC Sierra 4 wheel drive.

i know NOTHINGGGGG about 4 wheel drives.....i live alone and have nobody to run me around to drop off my truck and pick it back up from a shop so i need to do this myself.

front drivers side needed a wheel bearing for a while now. whats involved?.....what crazy tools do i need???.....how complicated is this?.....id appreciate all and any info...THANX!:headbang:
 
  1. Remove the tire and wheel.
  2. Remove the rotor.
  3. Remove the wheel speed sensor and brake hose mounting bracket bolt from the steering knuckle.
  4. Remove the wheel drive shaft nut retaining cover.
  5. Remove the wheel driveshaft assembly retaining nut (2) and washer (3) from the wheel driveshaft. Do nut reuse the nut. A new nut must be used when installing the wheel drive shaft.
  6. Disengage the wheel drive shaft from the wheel hub and bearing using J 45859 or equivalent.
  7. Remove the wheel hub and the 15-series bearing mounting bolts (4).
 

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only thing odd you should need is a 36mm(i think)to remove the axle nut so you can pull the hub off.hub just bolts to the knuckle,so once its loose you can just slide it off the axle.pretty easy job.
 
9. Remove the wheel hub and bearing (4) mounting bolts, 25/35 series.
10. Remove the wheel hub and bearing and splash shield from the vehicle.
11. Remove the O-ring seal from the steering knuckle bore, 25/35 series.
12. Remove the wheel speed sensor mounting bolt (5).
13. Clean and inspect the O-ring seal, 25/35 series.
14. Replace the seal if the following conditions exist:

Nicks
Cuts
Dry or brittle
Compression set

Reassembly is exact reversal. Note where it says 25/35 series does NOT apply to the 1500 series. Hope this helps.
 
air hammer or drift and hammer should work fine to remove the axle from the hub if it sticks.depends on the amount of rust in there.you dont normally need the puller unless it sticks really bad.
 
When you take it off, do not let the caliper hang loose. I know it may be obvious, but it is a real weak spot on the GM's. When you put it up on the control arm, hold it with some bungee cord or chain so it won't fall off if you accidentally hit it, or else you'll be replacing a brake line too. The two bolts that hold the caliper can be a real bear. You might need a breaker bar because they are assembled with locktite.

The hub or axle nut has to be torqued to a very specific amount. The spec is different from years and models.

Here is a video that looks pretty good about doing it: http://youtu.be/lcsadmpzH5E
 
See.... this is why I like this forum so much :)

good guys in here
 
I just did one on my 2002 Chevy. It's about a 90 min job...the hardest part was trying to put a persuader on the hub....until I got smart and used the air chisel. Axle nut is 36mm and the 3 bolts in the back. There's a good video of it on Youtube that can walk you thru it step by step.
 
thanx a million guys. im gonna tackle this job within the week...gotta do a parts run and leave the road runner "handy" so i can get stuff i KNOW im gonna forget !
 
I just did one on my 2002 Chevy. It's about a 90 min job...the hardest part was trying to put a persuader on the hub....until I got smart and used the air chisel. Axle nut is 36mm and the 3 bolts in the back. There's a good video of it on Youtube that can walk you thru it step by step.

X2 and yes the hub was a PITA,Just did my 2002 also.
 
Did both on my 06 only takes about an hr per side if everything is handy if you gotta go looking for stuff it takes longer but I bought mine on fleebay because they are cheeper and gonna wear out again no matter if you pay $65/ hub or $165/ hub
 
I got your help right here...

Ditch the chebby and buy a Dodge
 
I got your help right here...

Ditch the chebby and buy a Dodge

be glad you have a chevy for this job.to remove the axle nut on the dodge design you need a special thin wall 1 3/4 socket,or you can grind the hell out of a normal one.
 
JOB COMPLETE.....i want to thank you guys for all the help. installed the wheel bearing today and all went well...thank you again!
 
yeah the hub / bearing was 119.00 ...198.00 for the good one ( i cheaped out coz im not gonna have that truck long )... i have to admit i was a bit intimidated for the simple fact, i had NEVER worked on a 4x4 before. i am very mechanically inclined, but i was also worried about not having the special tools i would need. did the job over my buddy Gordys....he has every tool known to man. good thing too....coz we needed tanks to heat it up and break it loose and remove it.....i just loaned my tanks to my nephew and didnt have them here. thanx again guyz !
 
YA the newer hub style wheel bearings fail a lot more often. I have never changed the wheel bearings on my 1987 dodge ram since i have owned it. about 6 years. A funny story about wheel bearing, My buddy removed the Hub style assembly on his 2002 ram. He was tapping it from behind with a little sledge. The assembly fell out and landed right on his big toe. With shoes on. Poor guy has no toenail now. lol
 
YA the newer hub style wheel bearings fail a lot more often. I have never changed the wheel bearings on my 1987 dodge ram since i have owned it. about 6 years. A funny story about wheel bearing, My buddy removed the Hub style assembly on his 2002 ram. He was tapping it from behind with a little sledge. The assembly fell out and landed right on his big toe. With shoes on. Poor guy has no toenail now. lol

That's why you keep the bolts in and back them out. Grease is also your friend on assembly...that is if you ever want to take it apart again!

Congrats on the job.
 
I got your help right here...

Ditch the chebby and buy a Dodge
This is one place I disagree. My bearing failed all at one time (from no symptoms to me towing it home) in 10 miles. To change the hub on the 03+ 4wd ram 1500 you have to disconnect the lower ball joint to get enough clearance to remove the CV shaft which can be a bear. Also the dissimilar metals between the bearing and aluminum casting corrode making it a pain to get the bearing out. Or at least it was for me on both sides.

Oh and both my front bearings failed before 100k miles...this set will get replaced at 160k BEFORE I have to tow it again....
 
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