Normal Operating Temp?

[696969]

I have a 318 and the needle seems to settle a little left of center on the temp gauge. About an 1/8" from center.
I'm pretty sure I need to replace the water pump and radiator which are on order as they're old and a bit gunked up, but is it dangerous to operate at this temperature? Almost the midway point on the temp gauge.

Engine timing is fine and car runs good otherwise.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Meep-Meep]

You really should check it with a calibrated gauge, but for the most part mid range on a stock gauge is OK assuming it's working properly. For a real number you want 160 on the low side and 200 on the high side. Occasional 210-220 won't hurt anything but it would be more polite to have it below 200.

 

[tpodwdog]

normal operating temp is 195 to 210. 160 is WAYYYYYYY too cool. dont let anyone tell you that 160 is ok...coz it aint. altho cooler is better than too hot....an engine needs heat to burn off impurities in the oil....such as condensation and other contaminates.:jerk:

 

[67 B-body]

You really should check it with a calibrated gauge, but for the most part mid range on a stock gauge is OK assuming it's working properly. For a real number you want 160 on the low side and 200 on the high side. Occasional 210-220 won't hurt anything but it would be more polite to have it below 200.

Agreed,
Follow this advice!

 

[kursplat]

1)what you need to think about is how long do you normally drive it? are you making a lot of short trips with a lot of time at each stop? (example: i hate having to move my car to clear the driveway and not have time to really warm it up :angryfire: ) or is most of your time spent on the hiway?
what your looking for, besides not overheating, is getting the oil hot enough to get all the water out of it. if your running a 160' thermostat it's going to take longer to evaporate the water than running a 195' and letting the engine warm up a little quicker.

2) you can run a 140' thermostat and your motor is going to get just as hot as running a 195' if you drive it long enough, say 30 min. the thermostat is just to maintain a minimum temp.
what keeps the temp down to an acceptable level is your radiator and air flow. a good condition radiator and fan combo will let you run 200' - 210' all day long when it's 105' out while your sitting in traffic.

3) get a REAL temp gauge. all you can do with the stock one is guess.

since your going to do the water pump, plan on pulling all the hoses and flush the crap, (literally) out of everything with a garden hose. it's going to be nasty so do it someplace you can make a mess

good luck

 

[Moparsmitty]

Spend 30 or 40 bucks and buy an infrared temperature gun for your toolbox. Tool money well spent. Get your car completely warmed up and let it idle, point the laser dot at the water inlet at the top of the radiator to read the actual temp of the coolant.
You can use a temp gun for a lot of diagnostics on a car and a lot of non-automotive troubleshooting too.

 

[HT413]

For $20 bucks summit has a radiator cap w a temp gauge in it. Mr gasket makes it and it helped me 'calibrate' the factory gauge.

 

[moparmarks]

I run a 185* stat. Like Tpodwdog said 160* is to low. Saw a report back in the 70's that stated that the cylinders wear 20% faster at 160* than at 180*.
I ran a 185* in my work van with a 318. Put over 300,000 miles on that motor.

 

[1toolguy]

For $20 bucks summit has a radiator cap w a temp gauge in it. Mr gasket makes it and it helped me 'calibrate' the factory gauge.

I've used one of these for a few years now, it seems to work pretty good. I use the stocker to ball park the temp and check this one to be sure it's tracking okay. Not the most convinient solution but it'll do until I can build the new instrument panel.

 

[terzmo]

I have a 318 and the needle seems to settle a little left of center on the temp gauge. About an 1/8" from center.
I'm pretty sure I need to replace the water pump and radiator which are on order as they're old and a bit gunked up, but is it dangerous to operate at this temperature? Almost the midway point on the temp gauge.

Engine timing is fine and car runs good otherwise.

Thanks in advance.

A bit left of center or on the cold side is optimum FOR THE CAR. I WOULD HAVE A BIG GRIN AND DRIVE IT ALL DAY. It's running abot 175 to 180 degrees...enjoy

- - - Updated - - -

normal operating temp is 195 to 210. 160 is WAYYYYYYY too cool. dont let anyone tell you that 160 is ok...coz it aint. altho cooler is better than too hot....an engine needs heat to burn off impurities in the oil....such as condensation and other contaminates.:jerk:

210 would be on the overheat side of a NEW factory gauge. in the 60's and also is the same on My 40 + old coronet. I'm telling everyone from experience of over 45 years..driving and working these old iron cars that 180 to 185 is just right...I like it a bit lower...210 is too hot and on the verge of boil over and engine abuse....There is an operating region on the gauge that shows acceptable temps...210 is OUT of the comfort zone...I start to cringe hen Mine gets to 195...this is old school technology..not new stuff...old iron rads had a pressure of about 16lbs MAX..new alum rads are running 23 to 25 pounds and cars/trucks run fine at 210. Do as You please but cool cars like cool temps and the new junk like it hot.

 

[tpodwdog]

45 years and you have no idea that liquid under pressure raises the boiling point. 210 IS NOT too hot.195 would be ideal ....hate to disagree withya my man ! water boils at 212 degrees at atmospheric pressure....it boils higher under pressure. perhaps you learned something today ?

 

[moparmarks]

45 years and you have no idea that liquid under pressure raises the boiling point. 210 IS NOT too hot.195 would be ideal ....hate to disagree withya my man ! water boils at 212 degrees at atmospheric pressure....it boils higher under pressure. perhaps you learned something today ?

Also 50/50 mix raises the boiling temp.
Never seen an Iron radiator before.

 

[tpodwdog]

Also 50/50 mix raises the boiling temp.
Never seen an Iron radiator before.

i agree whole heartedly ! only iron radiator i have ever seen was in old victorian houses !

 

[terzmo]

"old iron" was in reference to old cars....todays would be old plastic....old iron is not in reference to the rad.....old iron rads/cars were not ...not designed to run at 210....or higher....but......it's everyones elses "old iron" and anyone can do what they want...just don't say You weren't advised.

 

[kursplat]

old iron rads/cars were not ...not designed to run at 210....or higher

i've been more or less seeing this statement all over the place lately and i'm wondering where this idea that "if it's old, keep it cold" came from.

"Normally water boils at 212°F. However, for every pound of pressure increase, the boiling point goes up 3°F.
Typical radiator cap pressure is 12 to 16 psi. This raises the boiling point of the engine coolant to about 250°F to 260°F. Many surfaces inside the water jackets can be above 212°F." quoted from here.
my car was designed for this "way back when" from the factory.
from the service manual: "...cooling system consits of ...16 psi radiator pressure cap,...195' thermostat, four, five or seven blade fan..."
it was also meant to have 93 octane regular gas. good luck with that, unless i want to mix race gas. but i still drive it every day. 105' out, stuck in barely moving traffic, and it's just fine. even hit 240' a few times while i played around with an electric fan over the summer.
you guy's can freak out anytime your needle gets near the 200' mark but i'm just gonna' put my foot in it :headbang: