fourgearsavoy
Well-Known Member
It looks exactly like the Wilwood unit to me
Not a B body. But something to keep me busy
- Thread starter dvw
- Start date
Had time today to replumb the proportioning valve . Bent up a new slightly longer short line to the line lock. Had a few issues with leaks at the proportioning valve. Not sure why the lines didn't want to seal there. No leaks anywhere else. But my wife the ace brake bleed helper got us through it.
Doug
Doug
Slow going today. Made a bolt together driveshaft loop a weld in so it fit nice. This car wasn't a floor shift originally. No hole in the floor. No linkage. The bugger welded console brackets were in the wrong place. It all fits now.
Doug
Doug
padam
Well-Known Member
Man, you do nice work.
fourgearsavoy
Well-Known Member
Doug there are a few complaints on the Summit site about sealing issues that turned into thread stripping issues.
It took a hell of a lot of torque to stop the leaks. Even with Teflon paste to lube the threads. It apperas leak free now. Maybe I'll call them.
Doug
ckessel
Well-Known Member
Do you have a picture of the flaring tool? If its like my 70's era Bluepoint unit, I may know the source of the leaks.
ckessel
Well-Known Member
If yours is like this one, the problem is after the flare is done you are left with two little ribs on the nut side that don't allow pressure all around the flare from the nut to get the flare seated. The ribs get formed in between the two fixture halves when you are making the flare. I struggled with this for years on brake and fuel lines before I clued in. What I ended up doing was taking a single cut file to the ribs after the flaring and carefully file down the ribs. No more problem.
I use this tool. Flares look great. Been doing this for many years with no issues. The only flares that leaked were at the propotioning valve. All which were repaired.
Doug
Doug
ckessel
Well-Known Member
I have the same one.
Didn't buy this one. Bought the upper one, broke as a joke back then. The $32 is what I paid 50 years ago.
64HEMI330SEDAN
Well-Known Member
i think that 8 3/4 rearend may be doomed! LOL! with that turbo piece for power. but who knows. looks like a cool project. nice work as always.
We ran this motor with a 2.76 and a 3.23 8 3/4 with a trans brake. Both were ok until we had malfunctions with the boost controller. Neither liked 21psi. This car is a street car. My bet is it'll be fine. Heck my Volare Road Runner has never broke an 8 3/4 using slicks. 11.0's@3880lbs. Hiundreds of passes and street driving.
Doug
Doug
Last week we had some unseasonably warm weather. Took a Duster break and knocked out a couple of needed projects. Every time the racacar trailer ramp door was opened there was a pile of "mulch". Pulled the diamond plate and found rotten plywood. Had to cut off all 50 or so screws with a cut off wheel. Smoking my way thru the wood. Then cut them all flush. Grind and clean the rusty framing, paint with rustoleom, new plywood. Of course with the weight off the door it goes up by itself. Had to hold it down with two 5 gallon pails of water. The door closed tighter at the top on the left than the right by about 3/8". Decided to tweek the door square by supporting one corner and jumping up and down on the other. Same with the side entrance door. Closed tighter at the top than the bottom. Put a 4x4 in the jamb and since its parked next to the garage I pried at the top corner with my shoulder against the garage whils standing on the ladder. Then all new weatherstripping fo both doors. This tralier is 20 years old and sits outside. Got the to keep it nice. New ones are too expensive. With that done we were on to the next task.
Doug
Doug
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So for years my garage sink has drained VERY slow. I snaaked it, blew compressed air thru it. Finally decided to did it up. The oulet just dumped into pea gravel. No sump so it was plugged with crap and of course my maple trees were looking for a drink at the outlet. This time it has two barrels. One inside the other. The small one with a bunch of air space above the bottom. Can now be cleaned out if needed. I wqs amazed how deep a hole I could dig and still walk and bend the next day. At 68 I'm not quite as young anymore. Woks great now.Back on the Duster project.
Doug
Doug
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Had to do the same thing to my hauler about a year or so ago too. Then I added a bigger drip rail above the door too stop the water from getting in. So far so good. It also sits outside but it's only about 10 years old and have had several wanting to buy it.
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I'm getting close to 72 so do what you can while you can. My back has been giving me some grief for many years now....and getting worse.
So back on the Duster. We have a nice new tank and in tank pump. It's a return system so double lines. You have to trim the float rod and adjust the height of the sender. We hooked up the cluster with jumper wires and a battery. Tested the set-up, works perfect. I don't like the lines on the inside of the subframe connector. So a nice pass thru works slick. It's kind of a pain to cut the holes. Then weld a few pieces of tube thru the rails. A little grind job and its all set. I tried a new method of cutting the braided line. A sharp chisel, a block of aluminum and a hammer. Lay the line on the aluminum and wack it with the chisel. Easy and clean. Waiting on some frame clamps to finish it up. More tomorrow.
Doug
Doug
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