padam
Well-Known Member
I used a chisel last time I cut braided lines and it’s the best way I’ve used so far.
Not a B body. But something to keep me busy
- Thread starter dvw
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Car originally had PS. Converting to manul meant extending the shaft and procuring a manual coupler.i cut the weld and removed the solid portion of the shaft. Drilled the tube to 3/4" Tto remove the internal splines. Drilled a hole in the3/4"solid material for the steering coupler pin. Then plug welded and final welded the new 4" longer rod into the shaft. Whipped up a battery tray out of 3/4" angle. V cut the angle , bent it into a rectangle. Cut some square tube up at a 45 for the battery hold down studs. Well actually made two of them as I wanted one for my Road Runner as well.
Doug
Doug
flyingfeathers
Well-Known Member
Very nice piece keep up the good work
Been awhile since I've updated. The fuel tank is in. But not without fan fare. The new unit from Tanks inc fit nice. But the sending unit outlet is so close that a -8 hex wont clear. Made up some adapters and got it all in. The my friend Gerry stopped by. He has the 1st prototype turbo kit from my son in his Demon. Told me he chashed low fuel pressure under boost all last Summer. Same tank and pump set up. Turns out the return fitting in the sender is to restrictive. Yes same seder that won't take a -8. this restriction ends up controlling the fuel pressure at idle. You have to back the regulator way down to prevent flooding. Once it's under boost the regulator is now set to low to maintain pressure. So out the tank came. Drilled the tank and added a sweep 90 degree -8 fitting for the return line. Plugged the original return and fit it all back in the car. We cut a pair of long diagonal holes in the left rear rail. Welded tubeing into them for fuel line pass thru. Now the fuel lines run outside the subframe connector. Nice in case of catastrophic drivetrain failure. In the next chapter 2; we visit the window fiasco. Followed by chapter 3; the heater case fiasco. And then for more fun , chapter 4; the headliner/door panel/seat cover and console debacle. Stay tuned
Doug
Doug
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You are one talented guy!
So chapter : 2. This car was purchased in pieces. My friend Jeff is new to all this. So when it came to the glass install the parts weren't labeled. The rear popouts were pretty easy to figure out and we had all the parts. But the doors, not so quick. The first issue was the repop drivers remote mirror. No way the cable was long enough. We called the supplier and they're telling us it was right. We eventully kept at it and discovered the mirror was for an A body with vent windows. usters don't have vent windows. The cable has to go in front of the glass by the A pillar. That solved now we try to figure out the regulator pieces. The service manual has one, yes one pic. About 3'x3" old lithograph with like 17 parts. Jeff kept telling me there were 4 plastic spacers in the 4 glass holes. snapping the repop spacers together (one on each side of the glass) proved to be tricky. Then of course they want to pop off when they get caught in the cat wisker. once th eglass is down in the door you thread in 2 phillips screws from the outside of the door inward. No way the factory did that. Eventually I find two kidney shaped sheet metal pieces with studs attached. I ask him what are these? "I don't know" he says. Ah these fit from the outside thru the glass. There are only 2 plastic spacers on each window. I get the drivers glass in and adjusted. Now the passenger will be easy, NOT. Get it all together and it will only roll up 2/3 of he way. I keep looking and finally realise there is a wedge riveted to the track that is upside down compared to the drivers side. Jeff say's cut it it off. NO, yes he's still in the learning stage. I ask if there are more pieces. Of course there are. The car came with 5 doors. Long story short the main bracket bolted to the bottom of the glass is upside down. Problem solved. Glass, weather strips, and cat wiskers all in. Doors and windows work like new. Next chaper :3 the heater case.
Doug
Doug
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I absolutely hate working in doors.....just thankful the glass in my Belvedere sedan were simple. Had to remove the driver's side regulator to clean and lube it after trying one in door lube job that didn't last very long.
Now to the heater. I haven't had an A body apart in 30 years. So first we check the blower motor. Of course it's siezed. Got it all apart and cleaned. So that's set. The looking at the heater case there is no provision for defrost. Jeff tells me it was an AC car and he welded up the evaporator holes. He got this non AC box from my sons old Duster. But part of it went with that car. No defrost housing, cables or dash control assy. So we look at the AC box. Completely different. We buy a contole head and cables off Ebay. My friend Gerry has a non AC box so we get that. But will it bolt in? No ah ah. The hole in the firewall is at least 2" to big. My solution. Cut two aluminum plates that slide over the heater motor studs. One on the inside of the firewall. One on the outside. They sandwich the fire wall in between. The two unused AC box holes in the firewall will be usd for the oil pressure line and engine harness.
Doug
Doug
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6PKRTSE
Well-Known Member
Cool project. My Son In Law just purchased his first musclecar last week. A 71 Duster with a built 360. I am looking forward to teaching him to work on Mopars and working on it with him.
Finished up the trunk wiring yesterday. Routed the large cable back from a firewall bulkhead into the trunk. All the tailight harness got taped up along with the fuel pump wiring. Fuse and pump relay are mounted. Made a bracket and welded it to the tbattery tray for the switch. Jeff wants a rod coming through the reverse light to control the switch from the outside. Normal street use he'll just remove the knob and rod so it doesn't show.
Finished up the trunk wiring yesterday. Routed the large cable back from a firewall bulkhead into the trunk. All the tailight harness got taped up along with the fuel pump wiring. Fuse and pump relay are mounted. Made a bracket and welded it to the tbattery tray for the switch. Jeff wants a rod coming through the reverse light to control the switch from the outside. Normal street use he'll just remove the knob and rod so it doesn't show.
Got everything finished up in the interior except the dash. Most of the new parts fit pretty decent. My friends Phil and Virginia worked wonders on the seat cover install. While Jeff and I helped. Got the trim panels, arm rests, sill plate, kick panels, A pillars, knobs, and handles installed. Everything is brand new so it's really nice.
Doug
Doug
That is going together beautifully. As usual, another high end car coming out of DVW’s camp. And there’s one A body that’s going to wreak havoc at the car shows.
Virg464
Well-Known Member
What is the reason for running the positive cable to the drivers side of the firewall? I'm getting ready to run a similar set up in my coronet, so I'm want to do it right the first time. Awesome pics! Thanks.
I ran mine there too. For the starter.
Easy to attach the starter cable to the pass thru.
Doug
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This is Doug's sons '62 with the turbo 360
I actually looked up how many posts @zyzzyx had made, especially trying to school Doug on the "non-existence" of a "turbo 360" automatic transmission.
I am mystified, but I mean no harm.
@dvw ...I LOVE the twweeeeee sound of a Turbo!! My 89 Conquest TSi was a BLAST to drive, stock tiny factory turbo, turned up to 17lbs vs 10.5 stock.
Ran consistent low 14s in the 1320.
I had bought a 16c and a bunch of other stuff to upgrade, but it all got sold with the car. I drove it from Ohio back home when I first bought it, bone stock.
This is me driving, my best friend and Mopar brother shooting video, annual StarQuest (Starion/Conquest Club) 4th of July meet at Pigeon Forge, ripping up the Tail of the Dragon...
An UNFORGETTABLE experience!
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Alas, the only Turbo I've ever heard spooling up was on a Mack 300+ back in 1978!
As for "old 727s" I run a 65 model in my racecar. Seems to handle 8 second ET's OK. The Duster has a mid 70's 727
This is "the turbo 360" The duster will be a lot lighter.
This is "the turbo 360" The duster will be a lot lighter.
- Local time
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I actually looked up how many posts @zyzzyx had made, especially trying to school Doug on the "non-existence" of a "turbo 360" automatic transmission.
I am mystified, but I mean no harm.
@dvw ...I LOVE the twweeeeee sound of a Turbo!! My 89 Conquest TSi was a BLAST to drive, stock tiny factory turbo, turned up to 17lbs vs 10.5 stock.
Ran consistent low 14s in the 1320.
I had bought a 16c and a bunch of other stuff to upgrade, but it all got sold with the car. I drove it from Ohio back home when I first bought it, bone stock.
This is me driving, my best friend and Mopar brother shooting video, annual StarQuest (Starion/Conquest Club) 4th of July meet at Pigeon Forge, ripping up the Tail of the Dragon...
An UNFORGETTABLE experience!
I spent a year and a half in the low mountain range of the Hunsruck near the Moselle River in Germany. Shortly after being stationed there I bought a 66 Opel Rekord with the 1900cc engine with the progressive 2 barrel carb, 4 on the floor, bucket seats AND mor doors lol. Ya didn't see that combo much even for over there but man, it handled pretty good and had a blast with it. It would also burying the 200k speedometer with no problem. Had no idea what I was buying when I found it but found out pretty quickly that it wasn't just another plain ol sedan.....
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