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Oil for my Mopar

How do I go about checking for the shaft?

I didn't use a Fram filter. I used the Mopar brand One.

When i drained the fluid it felt very thin, per se. Nothing shinny rolling through it. Saw a leak coming from the arm where the filter attaches. Is there a way to tighten that bolt without pulling the engine or taking off the headers?

Thanks

Sorry about the filter. Someone had a high respect for the Fram's. If you are getting oil on the trans have you checked the oil sending unit fitting or gauge lines for leakage back by the distributor? Also if you had the engine running for 20 minutes there was no reason to pull the distributor to prime it after 20 minutes the pump should have been primed or your engine locked up from lack of oil.

As to the filter mounting you do have the 90 deg extension for header clearance? The direct to the block filter attachment will distort if the filter is attach to tight - hand tighten only.
 
take the distributor out and then pull out the intermediate shaft (put engine on TDC #1 firing before you do this to ensure easy re-install). there should be a pipe plug at the end of the lifter galley. may be a little hard to see or maybe you can feel for it. i suspect it's not installed.
 
My oil pressure never ever goes below 20, 40 to 70 psi average while driving.
I use Valvoline VR 1 Oil as it has the stuff our flat tapper cams need. Also the Comp Cams and Lucas additives are good, but even with them I still use the VR1. Oil is literally the life blood of your engine. NEVER go cheap or compromise on the quality of your oil or the frequency with which you change it and a nice WIX filter to do it right. Fram is crap.
 
The fram filter stuff is over blown, I have used orange filters for years NEVER an issue... A PH8a is like $4, I buy a case at a time, and they look good on orange motors :)

Now I do change my oil and filter very often, and I dont race them, if you have an engine you are going to race or plan on not changing the oil for 10K miles at a time, choose a better filter, and a better oil for that matter...

For me if I can save $30 on every oil change I will, because I chnage them once a year if they needed it or not, if I started the car once in the summer I change it...

I figure it this way, if I am that worried about the engine, I would rather spend the extra money on a roller cam and roller rockers than spend that money over the years on the oil changes...
 
wix and k&n filters have poor anti-drain back qualities. this is very noticeable when the filter is put in the horizontal. this wix thing is just more internet hype. some numbnuts that everyone thinks is a "motor god" says he loves wix and everybody rushes out to get a bunch. i think the wix filters are like most stuff; designed for a chevy that has the filter in the vertical position and doesn't need any anti-drain back. if you prefer dry starts then keep buying them.
 
wix and k&n filters have poor anti-drain back qualities. this is very noticeable when the filter is put in the horizontal. this wix thing is just more internet hype. some numbnuts that everyone thinks is a "motor god" says he loves wix and everybody rushes out to get a bunch. i think the wix filters are like most stuff; designed for a chevy that has the filter in the vertical position and doesn't need any anti-drain back. if you prefer dry starts then keep buying them.
I don't prefer dry starts...who makes a filter with good performance and good anti drain back design? Part number for a B body 440 please?
 
I don't prefer dry starts...who makes a filter with good performance and good anti drain back design? Part number for a B body 440 please?

Fram makes one, lol...
Oil Filter Style:
Canister

Height (in):
5.140 in.

Outside Diameter (in):
3.813 in.

Filter Bypass Relief Valve:
Yes

Relief Valve Open (psi):
12 psi

Anti-Drainback Valve:
Yes

Smallest Particle Filtered:
20 microns

Thread Size:
3/4-16 in.

Gasket Outside Diameter (in):
2.800 in.

Gasket Inside Diameter (in):
2.422 in.

Gasket Thickness (in):
0.203 in.

Some guys would love for you to believe a $5 filter from fram will turn you car into a pile a bearing babbitt with a gooey nougat center, the truth is I seen hundreds of 44's in 5K+ cars, being driven at shows, I have used them "crazy" orange filters for years with out issue, my father has, my buddies have, they are one of the largest cartridge filter manufactures in the world. Your car will not turn into a pumpkin because it has an orange filter...
ph8a from fram $4 by the case or $5 ish by the piece...

I think if my car was plum crazy I would use the 30-8a since them are purple, that may be worth the triple price, lol...
 
currently i'm using purolators and i'm not saying they're the best, just seem to work ok for me; for now. i was a baldwin fan but the last ones i've used had drainback issues. i think buying a filter that works good in the horizontal may become more challenging in the future. everything is designed around a chevy engine, that is still being produced, and big block mopars haven't been produced since 1978.
 
I have royal purple oil filters and oil. Royal Purple has the Zinc, Joe Gibbs is good. I used the Joe Gibbs break in oil; 1 time changed after 20 minute initial run, 2nd time after 500 miles, final, royal purple or HR by Joe Gibbs. Either one is a good choice. Just don't be cheap on your oil.

funny, story: my brother's buddy changes his oil by replacing the oil filter and adding new oil to make up for the oil filter. I thought he was BS me until while on a hunt I watched him do it. Some guys will buy a new motor or pay to rebuild it but have NO desire to protect it.
 
I just did a search on WIX for a oil filter for a 70 Roadrunner 440 oil filter. The one they recommend has a drain back valve FWIW Screenshot_2015-09-27-15-49-41.jpg
 
WIX 151515 or NAPA Gold 1515 listed as a Ford filter at NAPA has anti- flow back. I have used this filter since 1980 after a short battle with Mobile and their so called performance M1 filter that failed. I have never had a used 1515 tested but can varify it will in deed remain intact with over 80 psi oil flowing thru it. This is the filter I will continue to use. If you have something that works for you use it.
 
i know they advertise it but in the horizontal it doesn't work.

Or if you are on a steep incline, I learned this on my old jeep, stalling on a hill or shutting it off on a hill, or running out of gas (often happens on hills, since all the fuel is running to one side of the tank), when I started it back up it ticked for a bit every time, but when on flat ground no tick, asked around about it to the other jeepers and they told me which filter to use, and sure enough, no more tick...
 
alright guys, just got the engine back in the car. I filled it with 10w40 from wally world. I drove for about 30 minutes, was smooth with great oil pressure when it was cold. As it warmed up (generally cruise highway at 170-180) i noticed a small tick (like the lifters) and what sounded like two rocks hitting eachother, but not quite the sound of a knock? (i have a crappy exhaust right, very restrictive, might be the sound of the knock. New mufflers come sunday.) oil pressure warm cold was 40, warm was under 10 idling. Cruising cold was 60, cruising warm was 20-30. Do i need a thicker oil?

Timing is right, carb is right, i just tore the engine down and didn't notice any problems with the car. It could be an exhaust leak but shouldn't it be there cold and go away as it heats up?

I drained the oil, checked the filter nothing shiny so it's all good.

Going to fill it up again, and i had a friend of mine say to run some zinc additive? Weather is about to get cold again so what do you guys recommend for an oil? I don't want synthetic, just because of the price. But if it works better, well i guess i'll use it.

10w30
10w40
20w50

brand?

Zinc additive? Same as break in oil? I have flat tappet.

Thanks in advanced.
it sounds like you wiped a lifter.
 
i wonder how many of you know what drain back is, and how you know if you have the problem? i'm outa here, ignorance is bliss.
 
Without an anti-drainback valve, oil must flow through and refill the oil filter before proper oil pressure is reached, the anit-drainback valve allows optimum oil pressure to be reached much quicker by keeping the oil filter filled with oil.


This is why I use the Royal Purple filter; very good design; and they only make one type.
 
Alright, threw new filter and oil + additive and car runs fine. Deafened by the exhaust (running open headers, exhaust shop is taking longer than I suspected). I put in 90% of the 5qt and added the additive, and it showed up an inch past full on the stick. However, I made sure i drained it all. Ran the car 5 minutes, great oil pressure, shut off, cooled, checked again and it was 1/2 inch higher than full.

I'm going to pulling the motor again, probably in the next couple weeks. Happened upon a good 318 that I'll sell the car with. Thanks for all tips. Like everyone I'm willing to learn, and I've sucked up a good amount of info on this post. Almost as much as our cars suck money from our pockets.

Thanks to everyone who put a word in.
 
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