Sonny
It’s all fun til the rabbit gets the gun.
Me/homeWho/where was it put together.
Me/homeWho/where was it put together.
I had no idea. I’ll take a thread or two off of them and try again. I actually used studs with nuts but the nuts may be hitting the unthreaded portion too. Thanks for the tip. I’ll try that before ripping the front of the engine off!If you use the wrong lower timing cover bolts they can be to long. Thread actually bottoms in the hole. They look and fell tight. But are actually about .020"-.030" from clamping the cover. The factory bolts are a goofy length.
Doug
Clean everything up and pressure test as DVW said!!!! That will hiss you off as where the leak is and stop making yourself crazier than you are![]()
I’m going to check when I pull the cover. I remember there is one behind the cam gear and one that points down above the crank. Any others?
change the oil pan itself.I have a 440 with only about 3k miles on it since I rebuilt it and can’t stop this oil leak. I have used 5 different oil pan gaskets but no change. It’s the wettest at the front passenger corner where the timing cover meets the pan;however, it doesn’t leak at idle or low speeds. It’s wet near the oil filter too. After a highway drive, there’s oil all over the belly of the pan, K member, drag link and even on the front of the trans pan. Dripping. I’m currently using a Milodon pan and dry cork gasket. Question is, could this be a PCV issue? I’m using a Mopar breather cap and a cheap advance auto PVC valve hooked to the carb. Maybe the new front crank seal wasn’t centered? The tc cover was original and not in great shape either.
I’ve ordered a new tc cover but I thought I’d ask before I strip the front of the engine apart. I’ve never seen oil dripping directly under the seal.
On my third one...change the oil pan itself.
I swapped the stock oil pump for a melling high volume pump. Instantly when from 45 cold to 75 psi using 20w-50. Now using 10w-30 and getting 80psi cold in park and 10 psi hot in gear. Goes up to 40-50 when driving. Good enough for me.Don't worry about the oil journal plugs behind the timing cover. If one were missing, it would have no oil pressure.
Have you checked the two oil pan bolts on either side directly below where the timing chain cover seats to the engine? I'm noticing on my rebuilt 440 that the bolts do not seem long enough and oil is seeping at the top and looks like it is coming from the timing cover. I think the bolt should come out the top of the hole.I have a 440 with only about 3k miles on it since I rebuilt it and can’t stop this oil leak. I have used 5 different oil pan gaskets but no change. It’s the wettest at the front passenger corner where the timing cover meets the pan;however, it doesn’t leak at idle or low speeds. It’s wet near the oil filter too. After a highway drive, there’s oil all over the belly of the pan, K member, drag link and even on the front of the trans pan. Dripping. I’m currently using a Milodon pan and dry cork gasket. Question is, could this be a PCV issue? I’m using a Mopar breather cap and a cheap advance auto PVC valve hooked to the carb. Maybe the new front crank seal wasn’t centered? The tc cover was original and not in great shape either.
I’ve ordered a new tc cover but I thought I’d ask before I strip the front of the engine apart. I’ve never seen oil dripping directly under the seal.
Topic is 4 years old. Wonder if he found the leak.Have you checked the two oil pan bolts on either side directly below where the timing chain cover seats to the engine? I'm noticing on my rebuilt 440 that the bolts do not seem long enough and oil is seeping at the top and looks like it is coming from the timing cover. I think the bolt should come out the top of the hole.