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Oil Leaking On Headers at High RPM

I don't think it's too much oil pressure. I have 100 psi at idle cold.
Are you able to start the car and look around when it's running?
You're sure the oil isn't coming from up top?

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You say oil on the bell housing or coming from inside? Is it an auto? If so pull the inspection plate and you'll see if the oil is coming from the main seal. If the oil is on top of the housing then I would suspect something else.

Yes, 727 torqueflite. Bottom of the bellhousing and around the sides. And straight back on the trans pan and h pipe. I haven't pulled the inspection cover yet. Nothing up top leaking that I can see.
 
Inspection cover pulled. Oil inside the bellhousing. Soooo, how hard is it to replace a rear main seal while in the car :(
 
Can you see between the flywheel and block or feel in there? Check the upper sides of the bell housing as well. Make sure there's no oil up there.
 
Can you see between the flywheel and block or feel in there? Check the upper sides of the bell housing as well. Make sure there's no oil up there.

I thought about that. I think there are 2 plugs up top I remember seeing. I can't get a good look up there though.

I pulled the pan and the rear main. I am beginning to suspect the rubber end gasket on the oil pan. The end of one side is missing and I cannot find it. But it would make sense why my oil leak was worse on heavy acceleration. ...all the oil sloshing back in the pan may have popped out or broke the seal of the gasket. It was a little warped so it may have cocked when it was installed. Just a theory.

While I'm in there I'll replace the rear main seal just because. It has a rubber 2 piece seal now. Crank is knurled. Should I go with a rope seal or rubber seal? I actually ordered both.
 
Rope seal worked for many, many years. Have to hold your mouth right, to get the upper half in place, but can be done.
 
Make up a PVC plastic fitting that you can clamp to the valve cover. Run about 3-5 psi compressed air in the crank case ( I use my leakdown checker turned down to about 5%). It will push the oil out of the leak area. Just found a cracked dipstick tube this way.
Doug
 
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Yea, oil leaks are a real pain! Sounds like oil filter gasket or rear main seal. Put it up on stands or blocks, wipe all the old oil off the motor. Then run the engine at a steady 2500 RPM for a few minutes. If it's the oil filter leaking, that should be apparent. If not, look at the rear main seal.
 
I replaced the rear main seal with a fel pro rubber one like what it had. Old one still looked new. Went that route because it arrived before the rope seal. While the pan was off decided to get a windage tray and of course the stud kit listed for the 318 is too short so waiting on the new kit from Milodon.
 
Left header soaked with oil on mine. Thought it was blowing out the dipstick tube. Then, valve cover. Turned out to be valley pan. Oil was coming from everywhere, somewhere, nowhere. Good luck. Guessing on here is all over the map. Can't wait to find out what the actual cause is.
 
Left header soaked with oil on mine. Thought it was blowing out the dipstick tube. Then, valve cover. Turned out to be valley pan. Oil was coming from everywhere, somewhere, nowhere. Good luck. Guessing on here is all over the map. Can't wait to find out what the actual cause is.

Thanks. Reason I suspect it was the rear pan gasket is because an ear from the old gasket is missing and there was a black streak on the flexplate where it looked like it made contact. My inspection cover was modded a bit to fit the 10" bolt pattern converter so there is plenty of space for oil to enter the bellhousing from the back of the pan. No smoking gun on the old rear main seal. Going to use adhesive on the gasket this time.
 
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