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Oil Question

Nick2317

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Was wondering what Weight oil does everyone use? Im looking for a good strictly cruising oil no racing just occasional burnout and fun ....nothing that's going to take a huge beating....what Oil and weight do you use?
 
Brad Penn 10 / 40 best oil I have ever used, and perfect for the old RB 440 combine that with a wix / Napa gold oil filter and you can cruise in comfort knowing you oiling is all good.
 
A specific oil viscosity is dictated by engine's regular running temperature in it's natural driving environment, an oil that maintains viscosity at a specific temperature while under regular driving condition of about 180* oil temp, with the engine at 190*-200* water temp. in the block, if you live in a cooler temp. climate where the average "lets say summer temp." is 70*-75* you need a thinner viscosity oil to maintain that oil temp/viscosity, than if you live in an area where the average summer temp. is 90*-95* you'd use a thicker viscosity oil to maintain the same 180* average oil temperatures... My point is, no one viscosity is correct for the whole country & temperatures in different climates... Engine compression, ring materials, hone type, even piston type forged or cast, or fuel type use, bearing clearances etc. or many other factors, can & will dictate a different viscosity of oil too... A car sold on the sunny hot south west coast, will have a factory recommended oil viscosity thicker, than a car sold in the colder great white north... I run Torco 20w-50w Racing Oil usually in my RR & 10w-40w Royal Purple Synthetic in my 4x4 5.2ltr Dakota daily driver, both cars run about 195* water temps & maintain a 180* oil temps... There are some really good article written about oil viscosities & the cause & effect of using the wrong oils... If you have a flat tappet Camshaft use an oil with a Zinc Phosphorous blended additive... If it's a roller valve-train & camshaft, the zinc isn't as important... I also would highly suggest you use a break-in specific oil that's high in zinc, especially when it's the 1st starting up an engine, with a flat tappet camshaft or you chance wiping out the cam... Also leave in the break-in oil, until after it's been thru a 15-25 minutes high idle like 2200-2500 rpm's, check the oil make sure there's not a bunch of metallic particles in it after break in... Then turn it off let it completely cool down, re-fire at reg. idle & drive around varying the rpms, try not to stay at a constant rpm too much & then after a few heat & cooling cycles, the camshaft & lifters broke-in/hardened from heat cycling, after about 350-500 miles... Change oil & filter for the proper viscosity for your needs & usage... Good luck, I hope I didn't just confuse everyone...LOL... My family & my Granddad "Whitey" {Shell Oil 50 years} & my Uncle "Ron" {Chevron/Standard 40 years}, were oil company engineers, one of my best friends Doug B. works at a Chevron Research, in Richmond Ca. oil testing engine research facility, he tests all kinds & makes of oil in different engines/temps & conditions... To say the least this stuff has been driven into my brain...LOL... I get a little overly **** about it....
 
Rotella 15w 40 works well for me. Good oil pressure etc. I wouldn't try synthetic. It will greatly lower your oil pressure!
 
Never noticed an oil pressure drop while using a synthetic oil but quit using it because we short trip our main car too much. It's too expensive to run it for short intervals imo so now all of our vehicles are on Rotella.
 
X2 Budnicks.

I use 15-40 SWEPCO heavy duty fleet oil but for winter can use a 10-30.
 
10-40 Amsoil in the 440. Wix/Napa Gold filter.
 
Shell or Mobil 15-40 plus a bottle of zinc additive. Even the newer diesel oils have dropped in zinc content. Wix filter.
 
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