A specific oil viscosity is dictated by engine's regular running temperature in it's natural driving environment, an oil that maintains viscosity at a specific temperature while under regular driving condition of about 180* oil temp, with the engine at 190*-200* water temp. in the block, if you live in a cooler temp. climate where the average "lets say summer temp." is 70*-75* you need a thinner viscosity oil to maintain that oil temp/viscosity, than if you live in an area where the average summer temp. is 90*-95* you'd use a thicker viscosity oil to maintain the same 180* average oil temperatures... My point is, no one viscosity is correct for the whole country & temperatures in different climates... Engine compression, ring materials, hone type, even piston type forged or cast, or fuel type use, bearing clearances etc. or many other factors, can & will dictate a different viscosity of oil too... A car sold on the sunny hot south west coast, will have a factory recommended oil viscosity thicker, than a car sold in the colder great white north... I run Torco 20w-50w Racing Oil usually in my RR & 10w-40w Royal Purple Synthetic in my 4x4 5.2ltr Dakota daily driver, both cars run about 195* water temps & maintain a 180* oil temps... There are some really good article written about oil viscosities & the cause & effect of using the wrong oils... If you have a flat tappet Camshaft use an oil with a Zinc Phosphorous blended additive... If it's a roller valve-train & camshaft, the zinc isn't as important... I also would highly suggest you use a break-in specific oil that's high in zinc, especially when it's the 1st starting up an engine, with a flat tappet camshaft or you chance wiping out the cam... Also leave in the break-in oil, until after it's been thru a 15-25 minutes high idle like 2200-2500 rpm's, check the oil make sure there's not a bunch of metallic particles in it after break in... Then turn it off let it completely cool down, re-fire at reg. idle & drive around varying the rpms, try not to stay at a constant rpm too much & then after a few heat & cooling cycles, the camshaft & lifters broke-in/hardened from heat cycling, after about 350-500 miles... Change oil & filter for the proper viscosity for your needs & usage... Good luck, I hope I didn't just confuse everyone...LOL... My family & my Granddad "Whitey" {Shell Oil 50 years} & my Uncle "Ron" {Chevron/Standard 40 years}, were oil company engineers, one of my best friends Doug B. works at a Chevron Research, in Richmond Ca. oil testing engine research facility, he tests all kinds & makes of oil in different engines/temps & conditions... To say the least this stuff has been driven into my brain...LOL... I get a little overly **** about it....