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Oil shooting out of Dipstick?

If it got wipped out but fuel and the bore is shot your looking at a Line hone,deck,bore,fit new pistons. $300. or ? depending on your machine shop. PLUS the cost of parts !! Piston's and so on.
 
Kinda figured. And yes to that the cylinders 3 & 4 are opposite sides. I'll try some marvel mystery in each cylinder and sea foam and see how that goes. And more fuel since most of it probly went with the oil.
 
Sounds like all you had was an over full crankcase due to a faulty fuel pump that leaked fuel into your engine. Sometimes just the way the vehicle was parked a stuck open carburetor float can siphon the fuel in the tank into your engine. Check both items for leaks. Replace crankcase with fresh oil. Prime engine before firing...

#3 and #4 cylinders being dry tells me the carb is where the fuel in the crankcase came from.
 
K cool, how do u prime the engine? Also, the oil pressure gage showed 50-60 psi
 
K cool, how do u prime the engine? Also, the oil pressure gage showed 50-60 psi

Just crank the engine over, with the coil wire off, (plugs out makes it easier but not necessary), until your oil pressure comes up on your gauge. Then replace coil wire and fire it up. Just make sure you don't have fuel running down through your carb before you start it up. That fuel in your crankcase came from somewhere and you need to figure that out...
 
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If you have a stock pan then you should only have 4 qts plus one for the filter. 8 or 12 qts is ridiculous and will cause foaming and other problems like you describe. Drain it, put in 5 qts (including a new filter) and see if you have the same problem. I bet not.
 
Yes, the fuel, oil, Trans & coolant have sat for bout 20yrs. Would it be best to take the whole engine to a machine shop or how hard is it to fix the lower block?

Say it's sat for 20 years?

Fuel is most likely bad. It can 'gum' up the entire system, including your carb. That's probably where the fuel is getting into your crankcase, through a stuck float.
You should get the old fuel out of your tank, pull the carb, check and clean it, and flush the system with new fuel.
Sounds like the motor needs a general clean-up, oil system, ventilation, so on, to get all that 20 year old stuff out.

If you run the motor much, with that fuel/oil mix your getting, your begging for a wiped-out bearing!!
Get a oil priming shaft. You use it, by pulling the distributor, and dist drive gear/shaft, and the hex end of the priming shaft fits into the oil pump. I've always used a speed handle to work the primer shaft.

Drain the oil from the pan, put fresh oil in, and use the primer shaft to 'flush' the old fuel/oil out. Of course, drain the pan after done. You've gotta get that 20 year old stuff out first, before you have a chance to check out the motor.
 
ok guys thanks for all the help. Is there any trick to getting the fuel tank down besides the 2 bolts for the straps?
 
Easiest to siphon most of the gas out first...depending on how much is there. The emptier it is, the easier it will be to handle. Of course, you would need to undo the fuel line and gauge wire at the pick-up.
Going to flush the tank, too? Might be a good idea, since fuel that old can varnish...really foul things up.
 
Gauge wire?

Fuel gauge wire. Should be hooked to your sending unit, at the fuel pick-up, at the front of your tank.

If your getting into your fuel system, since that's probably where all your probs are, you might want to at least split your carb, to look in the carb bowls and float seats.
 
rob,

Don't make things hard. If the drained oil smells of fuel, your pump is probably working. If you are just trying to see if it runs:

- get a few feet of fuel hose and run it from a gas can to the fuel pump, eliminating the possibility of getting old (bad) gas from the tank. Stick a bolt into the fuel hose coming from the tank so it doesn't drain out while you are working on the car.

- try and start the car (you may need to spray starter fluid or carb cleaner in the carb to get initial light-off)

- if it runs, let it run...all the while monitoring the oil pressure, water temp, exhaust for smoke or excessive water vapor.

- If you don't trust the gauges, hook up a cheap set of gauges from any chain auto parts store...don't even need to mount them, just lay the cluster on the vent valance so you can see them from in the car or while standing beside it. (just don't close them in the hood!)

- Let it run long enough to get good and warmed up (15 to 20 minutes), then shut it down ...wait a minute...then try and restart. If the carb floats are stuck, it should act like it's flooded and be hard to start. If it fires right up, your carb is probably okay.

If this works out, you know you at least have a functioning old motor. Now you can decide what to do next...if you want to try and clean or replace the tank and hard line from the tank. You can try and 'clean' the tank and blow out the hard line, but you will probably deal with a clogged fuel filter every so often. You can also try and re-use rubber parts, but they will likely be hard or brittle... expect leaks after re-installation. Figure $300-$400 total, for new fuel system parts (a tank, line, fuel hoses at the neck & vent, clamps, etc.).

As for the Sea foam, follow the directions on the can...if I remember correctly it tells you to put a 3rd of the can in with the oil.
 
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