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Oil Weight

Thanks all! I wasn't trying to stir the pot on brands as I know everyone has their favorite, it just seems like finding good old 10w-40 high zinc isn't easy (and is pricey at over $10 per quart for a car that maybe sees 100 miles per year). Everything is 10w-30 or 20w50. Car only gets started when it is at least 40-50 degrees F so one would say use 20w50 but then you hear that most of wear is at startup so go with a lighter oil....good old analysis paralysis...Heck some say to use Mobil 1 0w-40 FS...
 
I use nothing but Shaifer's oil, 10W30. I don't know where you can buy it but I buy it through our plant supplier... good stuff.
 
Another oil thread!
An expert I know of says on old antique ditch pumps like ours yak fat is sufficient.
All my engines have lifters. They tap nothing.

If you think oil is important on these old V8s how about on-air cooled pushrod flat LIFTER engines?
 
Oil should be matched to the clearances in the engine. If you don't know the clearances then experiment with oil weight until you find one that gives you a good hot oil pressure. It really isn't much more complicated than that for a street car. For a race car you would want to put some more thought into it but a street car doesn't beat the oil too much, especially if you change it every few thousand miles.

BUMP !
 
Thanks all! I wasn't trying to stir the pot on brands as I know everyone has their favorite, it just seems like finding good old 10w-40 high zinc isn't easy (and is pricey at over $10 per quart for a car that maybe sees 100 miles per year). Everything is 10w-30 or 20w50. Car only gets started when it is at least 40-50 degrees F so one would say use 20w50 but then you hear that most of wear is at startup so go with a lighter oil....good old analysis paralysis...Heck some say to use Mobil 1 0w-40 FS...
Mobil1 15W-50 5qt, available at walmart, has1200ppm of phosphorous, 1300ppm of zinc.
 
Thought 50 was reserved for oil pissing Harley’s.
 
Thought 50 was reserved for oil pissing Harley’s.
Yes, that and my 440 with full groove mains. If I could do it over again I would have definitely used half grooved. Seems like too many additional leak paths.
 
Thought 50 was reserved for oil pissing Harley’s.
LOL, we did that to a co-worker one time, a little puddle under his bike; didn't work, he saw the oil was too clean!
 
Another oil thread!
An expert I know of says on old antique ditch pumps like ours yak fat is sufficient.
All my engines have lifters. They tap nothing.

If you think oil is important on these old V8s how about on-air cooled pushrod flat LIFTER engines?

Out of curiosity, what weight or viscosity of YAK FAT do you use and how available is it? Is it a semi-liquid or a semi-solid? Does it have s good additive package?
BOB RENTON
 
look at the chart
that mobil 1 esp oil for the new vet is the best you can get
completly new additive package
also available in 0-30 and 0w-20
the 0-w 20 meets the recent 508 vw gas and 507 diesels specs
idk what 509 is or fs
 
Mobil 1 no longer a true synthetic. Starts with Dino now, not in a Lab.
 
Yes, that and my 440 with full groove mains. If I could do it over again I would have definitely used half grooved. Seems like too many additional leak paths.

Me too. If I ever do another it will half groove.
 
Out of curiosity, what weight or viscosity of YAK FAT do you use and how available is it? Is it a semi-liquid or a semi-solid? Does it have s good additive package?
BOB RENTON
The yak fat I use starts out as a semi-solid, but as it warms up, it thins out nicely.
 
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