OIL??

[dvw]

6

Mine won't keep the pickup covered with 6 even with the trick pan and swinging pickup. Needs aleast 7
Doug

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

It's good insurance

 

[66Satellite47]

I was very surprised when my builder said use Penn Grade 20-50W. I had convinced myself that lighter weight oils were the way to go. My builder explained that the bearing design & clearance are what determines the required viscosity. So I trust him.

 

[dvw]

I was very surprised when my builder said use Penn Grade 20-50W. I had convinced myself that lighter weight oils were the way to go. My builder explained that the bearing design & clearance are what determines the required viscosity. So I trust him.

Temperature and clearance. As temp goes up oil gets thinner. As clearance goes up you need to keep the film in between the parts faster than it can disapate. I can tell you that my drag motor lives just fine on 5w30 with .003" rod and :004" main at 150-160 oil temp@7100. Be advised that oil temp and water temp are 2 different animals. A drag motor will see much lower oil temp than street , road race , or oval.
Doug

 

[66Satellite47]

Well you guys are professional, I need to take your advice. The guy that built my motor has his name on the line. It does seem that oil has changed a lot in the last years. Penn Grade has gotten a lot of good pub. I sure don't doubt your success dvw.

 

[Canyon707]

I have 2 new accumulators I'd part with. A 3-quart Canton and a 3-quart Moroso. I never used or needed them. I've always had instant oil PSI on start-ups.

How much are you willing to take to part with one?

 

[66Satellite47]

Accumulators sure seem like a good safety feature. When I was bracket racing every weekend I considered the value, but never installed one. I thought that real value was not on start up, since I also had instant oil pressure, but if something failed during a run, you'd have a bit more time before total destruction.

 

[dvw]

Accumulators sure seem like a good safety feature. When I was bracket racing every weekend I considered the value, but never installed one. I thought that real value was not on start up, since I also had instant oil pressure, but if something failed during a run, you'd have a bit more time before total destruction.

Let a motor set a while. It will not have instant oil pressure. Also external line systems are notorious for losing prime. Being that replacing my motor would cost north of $20K in parts alone I'll use the acumulator.
Doug

 

[66Satellite47]

Let a motor set a while. It will not have instant oil pressure. Also external line systems are notorious for losing prime. Being that replacing my motor would cost north of $20K in parts alone I'll use the acumulator.
Doug

Point well taken.

 

[mmissile]

Mine never lose prime. Anybody want to buy the 2nd accumulator?

 

[MOPOWER871]

mmissile what your price on the accumulator. caton? moroso? thanks

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

mmissile what your price on the accumulator. caton? moroso? thanks

Hey you 2,,,,,get a room

 

[66Satellite47]

Seems to me that an accumulator is a fairly good investment. I considered one back in my bracket racing days, never pulled the trigger. Will give that more thought today.

 

[mopar 3 B]

You may also want to take a look at why the oil is sittng in the top of the engine so long for. High volume pumps a great but the oil has to get back to the pan or you will have the problem your having. Debur everything and trim all those extendiing gaskets that can create dams. May seam minor but every little bit helps.

 

[66Satellite47]

We could all learn from what the real pro builders do with regard to drain back. I've tried several tricks, not sure how effective.

 

[mopar 3 B]

I have not tried painting the inside of the block yet. Just do not trust it to stay were put and would be one of the last things that would be needed going thru the oil pump.
I do polish out all block and head casting zits and remove all casting slag that oil can hang on to. Smooth out the oil return passages parallel to the cam. Clean up any head gasket that overlaps the block and head.
So far 6000 rpm runs of 3 or 4 miles have been had with no pressure drops. Do run the high volume pump with pressure running from 60 idle to 95 at 6800, 7 qt system, NAPA gold filter and valvoline straight 50 racing oil. Crane did not recommend milti weight oils for the cam installed.

 

[dvw]

Mine has no internal painting or grinding other than normal casting flash removal. No issue with drain back.
Doug

 

[Cranky]

I always use Glyptal on my engines and have never had a problem with it coming off. Eastwood carries it these days for over 50 bucks a quart but with the way the refinery threw stuff away after using a small portion, I'd dig it out of the trash and bring it home. Then we quit working on electric motors in house and man, talk about throwing away a bunch of stuff!! It's crazy. Might look to an electric motor shop and see if they will sell any to you for cheaper if you're interested.
Also, never ran oils heavier than 40wt.....

 

[mmissile]

My builder uses 0-5 weight oils to make serious dyno/horsepower pulls. Gallon jugs slosh like water. It has made as much as 15-20 more than the heavy stuff. I run the heavy oils for protection. One guy who he builds motors for, wants the power....so they race with light oil. They also work on the engine a bunch. It's a crazy single-4[4150 style carb], Pontiac motor. Makes about 1200.

 

[66Satellite47]

Seems to me the oil weight all depends on the bearing & side clearances & few other factors. Much to my surprise the builder of my new motor recommended 20-50 based on the motor characteristics.