Ok electric gurus…. No horn!

[kiwigtx]

Where does the horn relay wire connect to on the starter relay?

^^^^ is true.

The battery terminal. Constant source of 12 Volts positive.

 

[koosh]

^^^^ is true.

The battery terminal. Constant source of 12 Volts positive.

Thanks!!!!
Any reason why not just run new wire directly from the battery, to the horn relay?

 

[kiwigtx]

Thanks!!!!

The question is now....have you learned something new today?

 

[koosh]

The question is now....have you learned something new today?

Lol…. A lot!
I’ll know more in the morning!
(should i just run a new wire from the battery?)

 

[kiwigtx]

Lol…. A lot!
I’ll know more in the morning!
(should i just run a new wire from the battery?)

It will look messy...but you can do it...it's your car. Just one more wire attached to the battery.

Every time you tighten that battery terminal up the smaller lug will get more damaged.

 

[RemCharger]

Run the wire to your alternator stud.
As the factory did
As previously mentioned and ignored.
I'll be back in 4 pages to re- remind you.
Again.
Happy horn honking.

 

[koosh]

Run the wire to your alternator stud.
As the factory did
As previously mentioned and ignored.
I'll be back in 4 pages to re- remind you.
Again.
Happy horn honking.

Nobody ignoring anyone….

 

[koosh]

Update: i now have intermittent continuity with horn wire inside the column…. All things on hold til new signal switch arrives next week

 

[ynst]

Nice paint on the relay mounting surface ....did you scrape any paint off to ground the relay base, or the horn first?

The relay doesn't need to be grounded. The horn button is the only ground source needed.
The horns, on the other hand, DO need to be grounded.

 

[Unkle Krusty]

The E shop told me most of the wyring problems with my van, came from faulty grounds. Neg wyres went to the body work.
Some things were fixed by scratching a bare spot for the Neg wyres. But up front, tne battery negative goes to the left hand cylinder head. Another heavy wyre goes from that point to a bus bar. A bar with studs to attach a bunch of wyres. All Neg wyres where possible go to the bus bar. My 2 horns were rusty junk. So I bought a new hooter for about $20. Then I checked if the activator, which on my van is in the middle of the steering wheel. 12.75 volts at that point, and 12.75 volts at the hooter. Decent wyre to ground, and toot toot.
Now some of the cars you guys have, might be kept in more original state. For me a working horn is more important. And the original fuses were loose and useless. So I have bunch of new fuses. Heavy red from battery to key. From key to fuses. Some wyres do not go thru the key, and straight to the fuses. Blue wyre I think.
The wyring block thru the bulkhead / firewall is also a trouble spot. The cars may, and probably are different. I use a light tester first to check for power, then after I have poked my finger, I check for volts.