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Its very easy to wire in your own relays. The headlamps do run thru the bulkhead and can have voltage drop. But lets back up a bit first. Measure the battery voltage at idle with the lights on. If it's low of fluctuating the relays will not help. If it's ok check the voltage at the headlamps them selves at idle. If th ebattery is good and the headlamps are low the relays will help. Here's the thing with alternators. When they take a low amp unit and rewind it for higher amps there is a trade off. The high end output goes up. But the low end output goes down. Not to mention that the output from the alternator runs thru the firewall bulkhead, the ampmeter and back thru the bulkhead on thin 10gauge wire. Try jumping the output stud of the alternator to the positive post of the battery. This willl bypass the dash wiring. The only downside of this mod is the ampmeter will not read. You are also using the early style regulator. The late style that uses 2 field connecttions at the alternator is bmuch better. Only takes adding 1 wire and a new plug and regulator. Finnally the later Denso alternators are a huge upgrade. Though Powermaster makes some 65/95 amp factory units. POWERMASTER PERFORMANCE
Doug
On my 72 Satellite I had problem of lights dim then bright dash lights and headlights, replacing alternator and regulator did nothing
Tried cleaning bulkhead and replacing old connectors. Then by-passed ammeter, eliminating bulkhead connector with direct wire. Also tried relays for headlights.
What I eventually found the wire was corroded under the coating. Outside looked OK, but inside the copper was discolored brown with green specks.
Replaced all charging circuit wiring and connectors and now lights are steady and brighter at idle