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one plug not firing

If it's a shiny wet black more likely than not it's oil. Too much fuel on a healthy cylinder will be a flat, dry, sooty black. Get a picture.
it was shiny wet black on the porcelain. i will take some photos.
 
time to pull the engine again. hone and rings shouldn't need to bore it again. give me a chance to change the the cam and torque converter never did like them. has to be the oil rings then ?
 
time to pull the engine again. hone and rings shouldn't need to bore it again. give me a chance to change the the cam and torque converter never did like them. has to be the oil rings then ?

Rings aren't the only way oil can get in the combustion chamber.
 
time to pull the engine again. hone and rings shouldn't need to bore it again. give me a chance to change the the cam and torque converter never did like them. has to be the oil rings then ?
A smart guy should do a full compression and leak down test.
 
gives me a reason to take it out. never liked the way it ran. like i said gives me a chance to do the converter, cam, put a stock radiator back in, oil pan is leaking. already have the .030 over forged pistons so just hone and rings bearings should be good. never looked at the heads i put on bought them already done.
 
time to pull the engine again. hone and rings shouldn't need to bore it again. give me a chance to change the the cam and torque converter never did like them. has to be the oil rings then ?
Could be valve seals/guides , intake leaking, or maybe a crack in the intake port. Leak down test will tell if the rings are bad.
 
Fuel, air, compression, and spark. Something is affecting one or more of these. What is the compression? If it was running rich or oil fouled, a new plug in that hole would run until it was fouled. What intake manifold do you have? Intake leak at that cylinder? Compression test and leak down test would be a good start.
 
Another thought; are you using oem stock cast pistons (I'm not referring to the modern kb type hypers)? If so one could be cracked between the oil ring groove and wrist pin boss or the skirt cracked and split.
 
Another thought; are you using oem stock cast pistons (I'm not referring to the modern kb type hypers)? If so one could be cracked between the oil ring groove and wrist pin boss or the skirt cracked and split.
race tech forged Pistons. back out now working on it.no smoke out the tail pipes. The breather cap not pushing up with back pressure will run good till plug fouls. leaning towards intake gasket leak. going to do a complete compression test now.
 
plug is wet can't really smell gas

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ok 165 cold same as other ones, BUT on the first stroke of cranking the gauge does not move like the other ones moves. no 3 only moves on the second crank.
 
race tech forged Pistons. back out now working on it.no smoke out the tail pipes. The breather cap not pushing up with back pressure will run good till plug fouls. leaning towards intake gasket leak. going to do a complete compression test now.
Be sure to check valve seals. One indication of oil coming thru the intake port is the plug will show a wet bias on half the plug. If the rim of the plug has a wet clean section that would indicate a detergent oil cleaning the carbon off.
 
My 383 kind of had your symptoms. Plugs 2 and 4 would foul out. No smoke.

I replaced the valley pan and used one paper gasket on the head side. Torqued the Edelbrock manifold per instructions. Have not had a plug foul since.

Does your valley pan have oil leaking?
 
I just had an issue with 3 out of 8 NGK 5's new out of the box would not fire. Fired it up and it ran worse than ever. I have usually always ran Champions for decades with no issues. I decided to try out NGK's. Found the 3 dead holes with my infrared temp gun. Pulled them all back out. Put Champions back in. It has been fine ever since.
 
I just had an issue with 3 out of 8 NGK 5's new out of the box would not fire. Fired it up and it ran worse than ever. I have usually always ran Champions for decades with no issues. I decided to try out NGK's. Found the 3 dead holes with my infrared temp gun. Pulled them all back out. Put Champions back in. It has been fine ever since.
I love hearing those stories. Champs for the win! Oh yes, any plug can be bad. I have had a couple issues with heat ranges and non Champ plugs. NGK never made a plug for Mopars. THey just cross reference with a chart or dimensions and call it good. Like running A/C's in your Mopar. You don't.
 
I have really never did a compression test , doesn't tell you where the problem is. Leak down test tells you exactly where a problem is.
 
The only mopar big block specific plugs for iron heads that I know of are champion j11y and j13y. Everything else is a plug for small block chevys. I prefer autolite 85's over ngk's for driving. My favorite will always be j11y.
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i did a leak down. It was the same as other cylinders. I'm going to pull a valve spring off and look at the seal I want to check the spring pressure too I never did when I bought the heads and forget what they were if they told me. then check the intake gasket. if the oil ring is bad would the cylinder still leak down ? no smoke out the tail pipe no air leaking out of the tail pipe from the exhaust valve.
 
The oil ring going bad by itself is unlikely. Do a valve seal check first. Also look for a cracked guide boss. Some people don't check retainer to seal clearance when upgrading cams. Too much lift will definitely clobber a seal.
 
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