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Opinions wanted on low-buck build options

For sale a 1976 440 block with cast crank, main caps, keith black pistons and connecting rods with arp bolts. the engine was line honed 1500 miles ago. all components are fine just moving in a different direction. $200.00 for everything. 1-734-775-0738. located outside of Detroit. p,s, the block and pistons are .060 over \
My suggestion, buy this already built 440 short block for 200.00, if still available. Use the fresh 906 heads you have. Use the 509 cam you have. Then you still have money left over for gaskets, and misc. You will be miles ahead with a 440, compared to a 383. You should still have a couple hundred left to drive to Detroit and get the 440. Take a Toyota P/U and save on gas. The 440 will fit nicely in the back. That motor will run great with the 509 cam, 906 heads, and Keith Black pistons!

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I am running the 509 cam in my 451 and it works great at straight up position. And I would advance yours 4 degrees to help build cyl pressure at the low end. Also, you should run at least 10 to 1 C/R with that cam. It likes compression, gears and a hi stall T Converter.
 
Thanks for all the input guys... One question... Is the 509 cam actually effecting my ability to get an accurate static comp reading? Would I have to remove the rockers to get an actual comp reading?

The .509 has alot of overlap which can bleed of cylinder pressure and give you a lower static comp reading. You need a good bit of comp to run the .509 cam and get good performance out of it. It will run great in the right combo but that cam likes 10.0 an up static comp to start working really good. Ron
 
The .509 has alot of overlap which can bleed of cylinder pressure and give you a lower static comp reading. You need a good bit of comp to run the .509 cam and get good performance out of it. It will run great in the right combo but that cam likes 10.0 an up static comp to start working really good. Ron

This was kinda to my point... do I really have low baseline Compression? or is the 509 effecting it. Since I'm talking about a cam swap, it would be nice to know if it is a low compression motor to begin with or is it a decent CR and the 509 is effecting my ability to determine actual static comp.

I suppose the best answer is just to pull the heads and start measuring.
 
This was kinda to my point... do I really have low baseline Compression? or is the 509 effecting it. Since I'm talking about a cam swap, it would be nice to know if it is a low compression motor to begin with or is it a decent CR and the 509 is effecting my ability to determine actual static comp.

I suppose the best answer is just to pull the heads and start measuring.

I answered that question up above. Based on your compression test and the 509 cam specs, you appear to have about 8:1 compression. Pull the heads and measure how far they are down in the hole at TDC to confirm.
 
Use the Comp cams 268 high energy cam, find a direct connection port template kit for the 906 heads. Mill the heads down a little to bump the compression up some, a good valve job and you should have a fun responsive engine.
 
I'm running a old 284/484 Mopar cam in my low compression 440. It was a dog on the low end until I advanced the cam 4 deg, that really woke it up. I would suggest you look into that also.
 
Use the Comp cams 268 high energy cam, find a direct connection port template kit for the 906 heads. Mill the heads down a little to bump the compression up some, a good valve job and you should have a fun responsive engine.
Why even think of using a chevy grind in a MOPAR???
 
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