• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Paint, what is the best

Well thr primer did not turn out so hot. It lookrd like someone thru sand on it. I suppose it didn't help that it was hotter than hell outside and the trunk lid was out there for awhile getting hot before I got around to primering. I guess this is a job best left to the proffesionals, damn my bad luck.
 
Sounds like your air pressure was to high. What kind of gun are you using? You need to se pressure with the trigger pulled. I have a regulator right on my gun.
 
Regulator is on the gun @30 psi, but it was not set with the trigger pulled, I'll reset it. It's a 2 gun kit from Eastwood, and I'm using the 1.8 tip. Any other advise that I might need? I do appreciate everyone giving a helping hand.
 
In a nutshell...spray temperature should be between 70-80 degrees if possible. Choose the correct reducer for the temp you are spraying in. The gun should be set for the correct cap pressure, HVLP as an example requires 10 psi at the cap. Note the pot life for the material being sprayed, eg: 45 minutes. Set up your gun as follows. Your pattern should be ellipical, approx. 8-10 inches in height, and 2-3 inches in width when the gun to panel distance is correct. Gun to panel distance should match the height of your pattern, ideally 8-10 inches from the panel. Adjust your spreader valve and air pressure accordingly. One of the most important things is keeping your gun perpendicular to the panel at all times and watching the paint strike the panel. It should go on in medium wet coats, so you can see some shine (wetness) after you make a pass. Make sure you overlap your passes by 50%, starting 50% off the panel and finishing the same way, 50% off in order to get proper film build. Its tricky business and an underestimated art to be able to spray effectively. And a costly way to learn with the price of materials...Good luck!
 
Hey there 66 B Body4ever, thanks for the advice. But I honestly think it would be sooo much easier if you just came down here and worked you magic, my offer still holds. lol.
 
If you hear a knock at your door and a see a wild eyed Canadian with a paint gun in his hand cryin for a beer you'll know I've arrived...

Cheers and good luck with your project, you need to chum up with a body/paint guy, we're not so hard to get along with as long as you find one that hasn't been around the solvents too long...lol
 
I'll leave the light on for ya.
 
I've been using NAPA's line of MS Tech Base, Base and Clears for the last couple of years on my Dakota Projects, the only thing that is going to happen over the next few years will be the phasing out of the High VOC paints for the New Water-based systems.

Pennsylvania will have to be switched over to Water BORNE Paint by the end of 2011 or early 2012....

All the other states in the union will have to switch by 2020, unless the states legislators speed things up.

Either way it's Bad news for both Body shops and the consumer, this system will cost more, and the shops will have get up to speed on the required changes in the equipement required to shoot it.
 
Water Borne will pretty much put an end to a hobbiest shooting there own paint. You need booth with fans to circulate the air inside to dry the paint. Dont try spraying it in humid/rainy weather with out a climate controlled booth either.


I believe the NAPA paint is actually Shermam Williams.
 
True, the hobbyist will be hooped, you need a lot of air movement to allow the water to escape from the basecoat. The tinters/toners are alot more expensive, but require less material to achieve hiding (coverage). We have found it to be a saw off on materials, perhaps a little more expensive at the end of the day.
Currently waterborne materials (toners) are only produced in Europe and shipped here, I can only imagine what that does to the cost of the materials. It will only be a matter of time until the paint companies are producing then in NA.
We here in Canada were supposed to be compliant Jan 2009 initially, but it was unrealistic to get all the shops switched over. The new date came sooner than expected, June 2010 is the line drawn in the sand where paint manufacturers can no longer produce solvent based paints. The shops/distributors are allowed to sell off remaining stock till depleted. There's also another date after June 2010 when no one will be allowed regardless of remaining stock to spray the material but I cannot remember the date right now.
It's coming! And requires a change in application techniques but if an old bodyman like me can do it...
 
Last edited:
I wish my boss would switch now while Im still learning to spray. May be easier for me to start with water borne then to star on one then have to switch right as Im getting use to spraying.

Unfortunately we will need a new booth and I believe some of the materials we use are comparable such as are tapes and papers..
 
This is the 4th time I've primered the hood scoop and still get the SANDY LOOK to it. I'm starting to run out of patience. I've read the instructions so many times that I could recite them word for word on how to use/adjust the paint gun. I will try this 1 more time before I give up and leave it to the pros. Maybe my 5 horse compressor does not have the cfm for these hvlp guns? Maybe a cheapy harbor freight gun is what I need to use. I've done this painting thing when I was teen and used a paint gun that my grandfather used when he was younger, didn't have any problems with it, so maybe I'm on to something. Question/comments would be appreciated as always.
 
Couple of things really matter, yes cfm is one, your instruction manual should tell you the requirements for cfm, psi etc. Also having a 3/8" ID airline (High Volume right!). Are you using a slow reducer? Watch how the paint hits the panel. It should go on medium wet (shiny but not running). Try slowing your gun speed down! Make sure you sand the surface smooth before applying anymore coats. If it looks dry immediately after application, thats how its going to stay.
 
Siphon hole is open, 30-40 psi per instructions, requires more cfm than what my compressor will do(somewhere around 6-7cfm at 90psi my compressor). I'm gonna give it another try this weekend, if it screws up, then I will do all the little dents, dings etc., and save for a paint job. I'm frustrated as hell about this so before I kill something I think I should step back and go at it from another angle(read money).
 
My offer is still open, lights are still on!lol.
 
Been doing some reading on the hvlp guns, and wouldn't you know it, they require more cfm than my compressor can dish out. So there is my problem, doomed from the start. I do recall when I was a teen, my grandfather had a spary gun that I used to primer my first car, and I never ran into any problems. It was the old pressure feed(siphon style) cup on the bottom, so I think I'm gonna look for a gun of that type to continue on with. I've gotta start researching this stuff before I start on new projects, it would help my arms and shoulders sooooo much. lol.
 
While that might work better, the trade off is transfer efficiency. meaning the older gun (non hvlp) will only transfer 35-40% of the material in the cup onto the surface while the hvlp must achieve at least 60% to be compliant. Its tuff and an expensive game to play. And let me tell ya, I'm ready for a beer infested holiday, I just might be knockin on your door!!!:penguins paint pixi:soda1::soda1:
 
Thanks for the info, and come on down, let the drinking begin. lol
 
Went to the hardware store today and found a hvlp gun for 60 bones, so I got it. The reason I got it was that is has a consumption rate of 5.9 cfm@50 psi, my compressor can handle that. So hopefully Sunday I can give it a test drive, if it's crappy then I will take it back and look at the other guns.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top