I can see why you might think that but I don't have the time to do the body work myself and once you pay for a paint job, you realize how ridiculously expensive it is to go "one step further". Seriously...it's crazy. And I REALLY like the look of the paint. It's going to be a really unique look that gets a ton of attention. It will drive people (with perfect finished cars) crazy; they won't understand why it gets so much attention....but it will.I can see a "seasoned" paint for a car with an original engine but with the radical changes you have planned, it seems strange to me to go half-way.
1. The wheels are 17" steelies so they're not that big (18-20's)...they're just big enough to fit some bigger Wilwood brakes and respond/handle better.First of all, I applaud the efforts! Good to see another one getting deserved attention.
The part I don't understand is the plan to do the usual lowering/big wheel thing.
Nothing new about that at all anymore.
Sadly, a big chunk of cool old cars get treated to the same old "slammed" look to the point
where it actually bores me to tears - and seeing one actually sitting the way it came originally is a treat.
I do t believe the core supports were blacked out on dark color cars?With 5 kids, work, school board, etc, I've not been making much progress on this charger. But I've also been trying to be patient as I've been waiting to make a deal with a previous owner for the complete numbers matching 383-4. I've known where the engine was for the last 3 years and the owner was willing to sell it. The engine is in a Satellite he owns and it hasn't run in over 20 years. We even came to an agreement on price three years ago, but I can't get him to take any action. I've offered to pull the engine for him...I've offered more money for it...He has turned down my offer to pull it and he just won't ever get around to doing it himself. After three years, I've come to the conclusion it won't happen any time soon and I'm tired of waiting. I had also completely rebuilt and powder coated all the front suspension. So the direction is changing for the better.
I'm going Gen 3 hemi, A518, Vintage Air, and RMS front/rear suspension.
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Also, I noticed that there is not blackout treatment on the front of the radiator support...and the radiator support has not been repainted.
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Dark green, dark blue and black cars were not blacked out according to things I have read. This should be 66, 7, 8,9, and 70. Don’t know about later years.I think it’s going to look great!
I do t believe the core supports were blacked out on dark color cars?
While I agree it would be better if the mount carried the load down rather than out the fact it's the drivers side so under power it's pulling up rather than pushing down it'll probably be okay... The fact it's an iron block helps too... Aluminum blocks tend to distort more than Iron blocks if you do anything that changes the stressing of the block...I'm a little curious about the engine mount.
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It looks to me like the bolts to the block are in serious tension. All the weight is trying to pull the lower 2 bolts out of the block. The banana curved section should be turned the other way with the outer mount secured lower in the chassis.
Am I wrong?
@1 Wild R/T ?
I had a set of SRT8 GC manifolds and they didn't look anything like that, they are stainless tubular headers off of around a 16 model year. Wonder why yours are different?Catching up a little bit...
Got the Charger up on the lift to mock up the drivetrain...
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Mounted the cast manifolds first, which are from a 6.4L Jeep Cherokee SRT8. These headers are cheap and they actually came factory on Jeep SRT8's which had 485hp, so they can handle the power and won't break easily. I paid $125 plus shipping for them. The driver's side engine mount had to be redone to accommodate the cast headers. The mount was originally straight...now it is curved.
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Some years were cast and some years were stainless. I have used a pair of the stainless headers on my 68 Roadrunner but they are much larger and required modification to the outlet angle to clear the frame rail and firewall.I had a set of SRT8 GC manifolds and they didn't look anything like that, they are stainless tubular headers off of around a 16 model year. Wonder why yours are different?
The mounting flange (that goes against the block) and the mount to the K frame are the same as they have been for however long Reilly Motorsports has been building them. Only the tube in between is different...With four bolts holding it tightly to the block it shouldn't be in sheer...and with torque rotating/pulling away from the mount, it shoudln't be an issue. If it was the design would have changed. RMS knows what works.I'm a little curious about the engine mount.
View attachment 1531573
It looks to me like the bolts to the block are in serious tension. All the weight is trying to pull the lower 2 bolts out of the block. The banana curved section should be turned the other way with the outer mount secured lower in the chassis.
Am I wrong?
@1 Wild R/T ?
Pretty amazing how much faith some guys put in companies.....Thanks. I don't trust RMS as much as you.