Patina'd RR1 Burgundy 1968 Charger ("Ribeye")

[ckessel]

Very nice project you have going on there.

 

[70B5Cuda]

If you guys can design one better, then by all means…show me yours.

The haters/doubters are always the guys who have never installed/driven one.
Bill and his products have been around along time now and have outstanding reviews/reputation. There’s Never any proof of real issues (maybe installation issues)…just speculation/doubt.
It’s built well stuff. For what I want, it’s perfect.
It’s funny to me what technology people are open to considering and what Technology some people will never ever consider.

 

[Kern Dog]

"Haters" is a word the millenials use. Nobody likes those guys anyway!
FBBO Darius reported a few problems, including early failures of the links in the rear suspension.

 

[70B5Cuda]

Haters/doubters…I provided two terms everyone can understand…but I guess it’s easier to deflect by finding issue with something trivial in my reply that has nothing to do with the argument.

Darius’s build was like 10 years ago…what you got that’s current?
And are you telling me Darius didn’t like the RMS setup?

 

[Kern Dog]

Darius had problems with the rod end links failing after less than 15000 miles. He wrote about it here.
If you're happy, that is great.
The design is inferior to OEM in terms of durability and longevity. The engineering is substandard to OEM.
You get header clearance and a steering rack but aside from that, it will not last like a OEM based suspension.
Cantilevered tie rod ends?
Coil over springs placing all suspension loads into the frame rails instead of at the torsion bar crossmember?
Thin lower control arms with inadequate shear resistance?
No aftermarket suspension shows an advantage in durability or racing lap times compared to a OEM based system.
For a show pony that will never see 20,000 miles in the entire time you own it, the RMS stuff may be fine.
They do look pretty.

Rich Ehrenberg has railed against the RMS, Magnum Farce and other systems that use coil overs. I don't always agree with the guy but he made a very convincing argument against these setups.

One myth that buyers fall victim to is the belief that the car performs so much better with the new system in place.
Well, a shiny paint job on the car looks better than the 53 year old car with original paint too.
Compare a RMS equipped car to one with a stock based arrangement and see if the hype holds up.
I'm talking a car with larger torsion bars, offset upper control arm bushings or aftermarket UCAs entirely, a bigger sway bar and decent shocks. Add in a Borgeson steering box to round it out. There you have factory durability, ease of finding replacement parts when you need them and excellent road and track manners for far less money.
The factory stuff doesn't look as pretty though.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Haters/doubters…I provided two terms everyone can understand…but I guess it’s easier to deflect by finding issue with something trivial in my reply that has nothing to do with the argument.

Darius’s build was like 10 years ago…what you got that’s current?
And are you telling me Darius didn’t like the RMS setup?

I've worked on two cars with RMS front ends.. They both had the same issues, mostly related to ackerman angles... When you adapt Pinto (Most call it Mustang II suspension but the Pinto came first and that is where the suspension came from) suspension to a Mopar your not making anything better...

Those who drink the Koolaide tend to not want to hear anyone talk about the flaws in their plan...

 

[70B5Cuda]

Exhaust mock up

 

[ckessel]

I like the use of those stands.

 

[70B5Cuda]

Subframe connectors

 

[70B5Cuda]

I'm going to make a real push to get this thing together and running before summer is over. I sent the transmission crossmember out for powdercoating but took a couple pics first.

 

[blue69runner]

Nice job. Your hired. LOL

 

[70B5Cuda]

Nice job. Your hired. LOL

Matt is a phenomenal fabricator!!

Kind of silly to geek out about this....but I'm happy with the powdercoating results. lol

 

[Kern Dog]

That crossmember looks amazing, very professional looking.

 

[70B5Cuda]

That crossmember looks amazing, very professional looking.

Thanks-I'll pass that on to Matt!

 

[70B5Cuda]

Although the engine bay cleaned up fairly nice, the driver's side inner fender had a lot of surface rust and some rust around the fender tag and under the battery tray. I briefly thought about just having the driver side inner fender painted but knew the colors wouldn't match so I figured now is the time to just do it once and do it right...I pulled everything out of the engine bay and hauled the charger over to my sheetmetal/paint guy. I had him delete the battery tray shelf since the battery will be in the trunk.

 

[70B5Cuda]

While the engine was getting prepped for paint, I realized that the only areas that haven't been cleaned up on this charger were the outsides of the front inner fenders and the bottom side of the front fenders. I got my needle scaler out and hit these areas to remove the undercoating. If you haven't used a needle scaler yet, you should try it. Just be sure to wear ear/eye protection and a mask. I made a short 3 min video on youtube to show how well a needle scaler does. I've used the torch/scraper before but never will again.

 

[ckessel]

I've been reading about using one of those for awhile. Didn't want to use the hot wrench either so I've been using the razor blade gasket scraper, putty knives and screwdrivers. Time to add to my tool box. Thank you!

 

[moparedtn]

While the engine was getting prepped for paint, I realized that the only areas that haven't been cleaned up on this charger were the outsides of the front inner fenders and the bottom side of the front fenders. I got my needle scaler out and hit these areas to remove the undercoating. If you haven't used a needle scaler yet, you should try it. Just be sure to wear ear/eye protection and a mask. I made a short 3 min video on youtube to show how well a needle scaler does. I've used the torch/scraper before but never will again.

I love the guys' face at the end. Dude been in the coal mine!

 

[ct71rr]

I have a needle scraper, they work great. I find the easiest way to remove undercoating is to spray it down with goof off, cover it with plastic overnight and it comes right of with a plastic scraper. For some of the thicker areas a second application may be needed.

 

[hunt2elk]

Those needle scalers work great for removing undercoating. I bought one years ago from Harbor Freight for $20-$25. Figured if it didn't work out, or last long, I wasn't out much. That damn thing has done the undersides of 4 cars now.