Pertronix install

[markbob]

Hey all

I have installed the pertronix 2 in my 318 coronet today

Bypassed the ballast resistor and installed their new flamethrower coil
The pertronix system install went very well
I regimes the engine and set the idle speed around 850
When I took the car out for a spin the car started to idle very rough and died.
I restarted it and realized my voltage was dropping with brake light application and the fact the engine slows a bit in gear
I increased the idle a bit and now it runs much better however I must have a loose connection somewhere because when I hit a bump in the road sometimes the car starts to run rough

I checked the alternator....14 volts coming out
I am loosing 1.2 volts between the alternator output and the pos bat terminal

Does anyone else have this problem?

Which connections should I check first?

Thx

MB

 

[67 coronet]

start wiggling wires while it is idling.if a bump makes it happen you should be able to isolate it pretty quick.start by the alt.

 

[markbob]

Would running a 10 gauge wire from the alt to the battery help?

 

[67 coronet]

here is some of the standard probs our cars have.http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical.html

 

[markbob]

Hello,

I started the car today....it did start up but still ran a bit rough....

I also have a lot of soot/smoke coming from tailpipe.....never had that before.
It also belches a bit of soot/smoke when I jump on accelerator.....never had that before.

I adjusted timing, and idle speed.....I also put an electronic voltage regulator to help with spikes.
The car doesn't quit running now when at idle in gear with headlights on....but I still have that nasty voltage drop between the alternator and battery....

am going to check the ammeter connections later....

any other ideas as to why this engine smokes now with an electronic ignition, and it did not with points?

thanks,

Mark

 

[CoronetDarter]

I installed a Pertronix III and FT coil in my Coronet last year, by-passed the ballast resistor. The car backfired through the carb upon starting. Turns out the spark plug wires were off by 1 post on the new distributor cap. And re-gap the plugs to .45. These suggestions don't equate to a voltage drop but could explain rough idle.

 

[markbob]

Thx for replies guys

I checked the ammeter connections.... Nice and tight
I also disconnected and cleaned the black fuse plug connection on the starter relay

I have driven the car and it seems better.... I have a large blacks hid mark on the garage floor under the exhaust pipe
It appears to be soot.....

I adjusted the idle.....around 900 at slow idle and 1500 at high idle

I also tried the electronic voltage regulator.....the car does not stall out at idle when sitting at stop lights now

Still looking for culprit on the voltage drop.... Still loosing over 1.5 volts between alternator and battery

I purchased some contact cleaner.... Am going to spray that into bulkhead connector tomorrow
Will also regal plugs if warranted.... Pertronix directions said nothing about it

Any other thoughts about the soot/smoke exhaust?

 

[eric383]

Just a thought.....How much voltage do you have at the coil? If it is less than 12V try running a temporary jumper from the +batt side to the +coil connection and see what that does. Just remove it before you turn off the motor. I did have a epoxy filled off road style Flamethrower coil that wasn't putting out as much voltage as it should have been. Just my 2 cents worth.

 

[kellycom]

You are experiencing the typical Mopar charging system in action. The problem is the Pertronix wants to see a constant 12 volts or higher in order for the module in the distributor to work properly. When the voltage drops below 12 the module doesn't control the spark very well. So your car will run rough at idle, possibly stall and have black smoke out of the tail pipe. The black smoke is unburnt fuel from lack of spark. I installed the distributor module only in my 66 Charger and I had to bump the idle a bit to stop it from dying at idle. When running at night with the headlights on I sometimes put the car in Neutral to keep it from stalling.

http://madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml

This site has all kinds of tips and tech articles to make your Mopar charging system work better and minimize or get rid of the dreaded Voltage drop when the headlights are on. You just need to decide what approach you want to take. Bump the idle and put the car in Neutral @ stops. Or redo the Charging system. There are great posts on this forum that run the gamut of charging systems changes.

Good luck