Pinion Angle/ Snubber Question
- Thread starter 68suprB
- Start date
I too need to learn more about this subject and study about it. Thing that is confusing to me is that the springs ar set, the spring percheds has a pin for the rear axle. To me, if the rear is set on the rear springs with the pins, that can;t be adjusted. If the motor and trans is hooked up right, how can that be adjusted? The motor sitting on the K is not adjustable and the same with the tranny bolted on. I'm confused as hell about this subject and want to learn and understand it as well. I'll keep looking at this subject and hope to learn it as well.
67Satty
Well-Known Member
All you have to do is jack up the car, loosen the U bolts and then slip a little 2 degree or 4 degree (or whatever angle you want) metal shim in there, then set it back down, tighten up the U bolts. It makes more sense when you do it and can see it and takes less time than reading this thread.
heinz13
Member
Is the vibration there sitting still and revving the engine or just going down the road?
Supershafts
Well-Known Member
No, you change the u-bolts, you never re-use bolts that are stretched and re-stretch them.
67Satty
Well-Known Member
OK, just trying to understand here. Are you saying everytime the nuts on the U bolts have been loosened for whatever reason, you have to ditch them and buy new ones?
Or are you saying replace old ones that are stretched out? I probably should have said before that he might need new longer ones to compensate for the wedge being added.
Or are you saying replace old ones that are stretched out? I probably should have said before that he might need new longer ones to compensate for the wedge being added.
Supershafts
Well-Known Member
Yes, a u-bolt is to be stretched to it's limit, you should never stretch something like that twice, so when you change the angle you use new u-bolts. Steel stretches and holds that stretch and doesn't come back fully when loosened, and stretching it twice to achieve the same clamping force is a disaster waiting to happen.
Usually the u-bolts length should be ok unless it needs some massive adjustment, of which at that point it might be better to alter the perch
Usually the u-bolts length should be ok unless it needs some massive adjustment, of which at that point it might be better to alter the perch
67Satty
Well-Known Member
OK, thanks. I'm pretty sure when I added my shims it was within the window of my new U bolts having to be retorqued anyway so I going to chance it.
And I guess I need to find out if this applies to the longer MP ones with the deep nuts or if this only applies to the factory stock ones that I've read had interference nuts meant to stretch the threads.
And I guess I need to find out if this applies to the longer MP ones with the deep nuts or if this only applies to the factory stock ones that I've read had interference nuts meant to stretch the threads.
Supershafts
Well-Known Member
68suprB
Well-Known Member
Yesterday I was finally able to get the car on a lift and the pinion angles are within about one degree of each other..all the mounts look good and are tight. I've attached some pics so if anyone sees something obvious please chime in. One thing I did find was there is some play in the tailshaft area of the tranny. If I hold the driveshaft try to move it, there is some vertical play in the slip yoke area. The U joints are brand new so it isn't that. When I move it there's an audible "clunk" and it can be heard all the way up in the transmission when standing directly under it. Would this be indicative of a worn tailshaft bushing or bearing?? Like I said earlier, the transmission is the only part of the car that isn't brand new or rebuilt very recently. I have no idea if it's ever been worked on, in fact. It does shift perfectly fine, however.
Supershafts
Well-Known Member
The pinion angle shouldn't be where it is right now, it should be below the angle of the shaft
68suprB
Well-Known Member
So you're saying to lower the rear right? It's tough to get a good pic of the slip yoke area up front but it's pretty much level/up just a hair.
Supershafts
Well-Known Member
Yes point the diff down some, right now it looks just over the shafts angle and when you're driving its way beyond that, lower it a few degrees
68suprB
Well-Known Member
Ok. I have the mopar wedges, think I should just go straight to the 3º or go in little increments?
Supershafts
Well-Known Member
I would start with the 3/4 degree from that pic
68suprB
Well-Known Member
Thanks. I only have 1,2&3 deg ones so I'll try the 1deg and see what it looks like. I have no idea how much they actually wrap up under acceleration. With a totally stock setup is it normal to ever have to correct the angle? Maybe the springs are tired and allow it to move more than usual? I'll keep you posted, thanks again for your help.
Supershafts
Well-Known Member
You're wasting your very important time with STARTING with a 1 degree.
Start with 3/4 degree based on that pic, and if i was to put a angle finder on the shaft and joint at the end yoke i'd probably say more, but based on the pic start with a 3/4
Start with 3/4 degree based on that pic, and if i was to put a angle finder on the shaft and joint at the end yoke i'd probably say more, but based on the pic start with a 3/4
68suprB
Well-Known Member
Sry maybe I'm not reading this right...do you mean 3 or 4 degree or 3/4 of a degree as in .75? Lol that why I said start w the 1 degree.
Supershafts
Well-Known Member
3 or 4, not .75
Similar threads
