Please help!

[The 500 Foundation]

Vapor Lock?
There is a way to fix that

 

[74sundance]

I just talked with a friend of mine,he had the same problem with the pressure build up in the fuel tank after installing a new cap.All he did was drill a small hole in the cap to release the pressure and his problems went away.

 

[The 500 Foundation]

Did the same for my convert since I did not have a vented cap on hand

 

[lvmymopar]

Car is finally back and fixed. This is all that was wrong. Worn cam, replaced that. Timing gears were 4 degrees off. They had racing gears in there and those were replaced with new. New lifters. Fuel tank, all lines were taken out and cleaned. Someone drilled two holes in the butterflies in the carb, why I do not know. Replaced the carb. We had another one to replace it. Also drilled a hole in the gas cap and the pressure went away. Totally different car now. So much better. :yes:

 

[69 Runner]

They drilled the throttle plates cause they couldn't get it to idle

 

[74sundance]

Glad to see your up and running,to bad about the cam and lifters...Make sure you get the rite oil or you will burn up the new set.

 

[lvmymopar]

What would be the right oil to put in now.

 

[74sundance]

Due to the EPA's mandate for zinc removal from most motor oils, proper flat tappet camshaft break-in procedure is more critical than ever before. This is true for both hydraulic and mechanical flat tappet Camshafts. As a point of interest, the most critical time in the life of a flat tappet camshaft is the first 20 minutes of “break-in” during which the bottoms of the tappets “mate-in” with the cam lobes.
There are some oils with additive packages that are better for camshaft “break-in”. These include, but are not limited to: (Brad Penn or Joe Gibbs racing) or a “race only” petroleum- based oil and include Crane Cams
Part # 99003-1 Super Lube” additive.

.........."Do not use API rated “SL” or “SM” oil"............

CAUTION: We do not recommend the use of synthetic oils for “break-in”. Prior to installing the camshaft and lifters, it is recommended that the crankcase be drained and filled with new, clean oil, as listed above. The oil
filter should also be changed at this time.

You can also use: Mobil 1 15W-50 (1,200 ppm), Mobil 1 0W-40 (1,000 ppm) and Mobil 1 High Mileage 5W-30, 10W-30 and 10W-40 (900 ppm).

Stay away from: API SM/ISLAC GF-4 oils They are for for better fuel economy and for the protection of catalytic systems with lower phosphorous (800 ppm).They are not good for our cars!!!!!!

 

[MarPar]

Hey sundance, what do you think of this stuff for regular, everyday oil for our flat-tappets??

http://www.jegs.com/i/Valvoline+Racing/949/VV851/10002/-1

Thanks -Mar

 

[74sundance]

For any one that want's to know more about Cam shafts getting wiped out due to bad break in and or the wrong oils being used I'm starting a new thread because there are faw to many people who are unaware of this problem.

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?p=59113#post59113

 

[74sundance]

Well I use Rotella "T" and Valvoline has the same 1200 ppm ZDDP content but the street/race oil VR1 would be better because it's street legal ;) plus it comes in 10w-30 and 20w50....... If you run the Rotella-T oil it still has the proper ZDDP (Zinc DialkylDithiophosphates" additive levels and actually costs less than regular oil.

 

[MarPar]

Well I use Rotella "T" and Valvoline has the same 1200 ppm ZDDP content but the street/race oil VR1 would be better because it's street legal ;) plus it comes in 10w-30 and 20w50....... If you run the Rotella-T oil it still has the proper ZDDP (Zinc DialkylDithiophosphates" additive levels and actually costs less than regular oil.

Sweet, thanks!!!

 

[lvmymopar]

We usually use synthetic oil but we decided to put regular 10/40 wt. oil in for the break in. Cant remember the brand. Also changed the oil filter. When do we switch back to synthetic oil? Next oil change? I also had a question not regarding this car but my daughters Toyota Camry. It has an oil leak we think is coming from the rear main seal. Do those stop leak products work like Lucas or Bars Leak? We also heard that the PCV valve may be clogged so we are going to change that and do an oil change and put in a little thicker oil. And try some stop leak. See how that goes.