Plugs in Drivers Side Bank Fouled

[FridayGt]

If just one hole is bad, it may be a burnt valve..

I had this on a small block Chevy once. I actually carried a box of plugs with me and woud change that one out each time I drove the car.

To check, do a compression test. Then repeat but add a bit of oil, about a tablespoon or so, into the plug hole. The oil will seal off the rings.

If the reading stays the same, you probably have a burnt intake valve. If it goes up, then he valve is OK, but you may have a ring issue.


Hope this helps,


Jeff

I'll give this a shot too. Should be pulling everything tomorrow to start the testing over again. Hopefully it's not a burnt valve, but if it is, it's thankfully over the winter. Just wish it wasn't before spending all of my money on a Wedding in April! lol.

 

[FridayGt]

Also, out of curiosity, if this is the case what route do you think would be better?

Taking the heads in to have a valve job done, or just gettign a set of Eddy Performer heads and doing the swap myself? I'm just curious if the cost reached by having the heads repaired will come close enough to the cost of a swap to be a less fiscally prudent decision.

 

[67 B-body]

Also, out of curiosity, if this is the case what route do you think would be better?

Taking the heads in to have a valve job done, or just gettign a set of Eddy Performer heads and doing the swap myself? I'm just curious if the cost reached by having the heads repaired will come close enough to the cost of a swap to be a less fiscally prudent decision.

I think the best answer would come from your local machine shop. Some joints charge an arm and leg for the simplest things, and others are very reasonable... I would make a few calls, and ask how much they charge for the basic portion of machine work first, like cleaning, valve grinding, and magnafluxing. Also consider things like potential valve guide wear / repair, valve stem seals, perhaps a valve or two..... I know this all sounds scarry, but when you compare this cost of basic "fixer upper" stuff, you'll probably still be quite a bit less than a "new" set of Eddy performer heads....
Also,,, do a few of the checks yourself before taking them to the shop... A dial indicator against the valve stem rocking from side to side, and front to back can be a good check for valve guide wear / condition. Also, simply removing the valves from the heads can shine some light on things too.... Carefull inspection after some cleaning can show a lot, and give you an idea of what you might expect to see from the machine shop quote!!

 

[GTX.JCW]

I think 67 B-body has the right idea. Check with the local shops and see what they would charge for a worst case scenario;a valve job, with new valves, seats and guides plus and other machine work. Balance that against buying new.

Jeff

I think the best answer would come from your local machine shop. Some joints charge an arm and leg for the simplest things, and others are very reasonable... I would make a few calls, and ask how much they charge for the basic portion of machine work first, like cleaning, valve grinding, and magnafluxing. Also consider things like potential valve guide wear / repair, valve stem seals, perhaps a valve or two..... I know this all sounds scarry, but when you compare this cost of basic "fixer upper" stuff, you'll probably still be quite a bit less than a "new" set of Eddy performer heads....
Also,,, do a few of the checks yourself before taking them to the shop... A dial indicator against the valve stem rocking from side to side, and front to back can be a good check for valve guide wear / condition. Also, simply removing the valves from the heads can shine some light on things too.... Carefull inspection after some cleaning can show a lot, and give you an idea of what you might expect to see from the machine shop quote!!

 

[FridayGt]

Well, start up this morning was a very scary experience for me compared to previous start-ups. I don't know if it just got worse, or if I made it worse with the one step hotter plug in the #7 cylinder. Either way, this morning (it hadn't been started in quite a few days) I started it up after verifying the plug was fine to drive it to work and had a lot of hesitation and stalling on start up. While trying to do this, I for the first time heard a very different sound in the rythm before ignition that I can only assume to have been right in time with the #7 cylinder. Once she did fire up, she spit out a nice big cloud of smoke. Sigh.

Looks like it's time for her to get put up for a little while. I'm going to call around for some quotes and see how much I'll have to save up for. Downside to being in Delaware is there aren't too many MoPar loving machine shops. I'll give Herb's Parts a call and see what they can reccomend. Either way, spending on the heads will have to wait until after my wedding in April, more than likely July when I get a little installment from my re-enlistment bonus. Too tapped out after having to replace the engine and trans so soon after buying it in September. Damn it.

Although, on a brighter side note, thank you all for your help. This thread has been two solid pages of people trying to genuinely help another out and I have been very greatful. You guys are all stand up folks and I appreciate every last one of you!

 

[67 coronet]

sadly,a good puff of smoke at start up after sitting a while,indicates oil in the cylinder.time to pull it apart,and take a look inside.a decent price for a good valve job,and mag n mill,should only run about 400 to 500 bucks.you will need to price out possible valve guide fix or replacement after teardown.make sure to take a realy good look at the rings,and any scoring on that cylinder if all you are addressing in the heads.

 

[67 B-body]

I would also put a WANTED post up, and check out Craigslist for a set of heads already done... I have seen many adds with guys selling "freshly re-built" cast heads that just simply don't get used on there project...... at a very discounted price!!!!!!

 

[FridayGt]

Yeah, I figured as much. I called around to a couple of places and your right, I am looking at about $500 or so if I bring them in and about $1200 if I bring it in and they do the labor to take them off and check everything out that might have caused it as well.

I thought about a wanted add as well, but even that I think will have to wait sadly. I'm just too strapped with this wedding coming up, and having just replaced the transmission, carburetor and engine already. It's a damn shame how much this car has been down and out, when I bought it under the impression it was a driving car "just needing paint and alignment work."

 

[green1]

Upper right port for vacuum test. What ignition? we had a msd, trigger wire intermediate grounding, that did the same.

 

[Cordellj]

Check your valve stem seals for cylinder 1, 3, 5, and 7. They made be cracked worn and could be allowing oil to leak through.

 

[67 B-body]

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?t=30498

Just like I said,,, they always come up for sale.....

 

[FridayGt]

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?t=30498

Just like I said,,, they always come up for sale.....

You're right! Dang it! Well, I'm sure there will be others for sale by the time I can save up. :eusa_boohoo:


Or not, it would be just my luck. lol. That would be nearly perfect too. I've got 452 heads on mine right now I believe and that's about what the machine shop was quoting for repairs. It would be the perfect solution if this car hadn't already tapped out my wallet... sigh. :eusa_boohoo:

 

[FridayGt]

Upper right port for vacuum test. What ignition? we had a msd, trigger wire intermediate grounding, that did the same.

Or since they vary, manifold vacuum, correct?

Check your valve stem seals for cylinder 1, 3, 5, and 7. They made be cracked worn and could be allowing oil to leak through.

I'll check those too, but either way it is now also most defenitely the exhaust valve now as the situation hhas worsened. Either way, won't be able to afford any repairs until well after this wedding is over. The car has just tapped me out, so she has to sit now until July...
:eusa_boohoo:

 

[67 B-body]

There are PLENTY of driving days left in the summer after July.... You'll now have time to do those little things that take little to no money... Just elbow grease and attention to details.....

 

[FridayGt]

There are PLENTY of driving days left in the summer after July.... You'll now have time to do those little things that take little to no money... Just elbow grease and attention to details.....

Yeah, that's what I figured. It sucks and is not ideal, but, it is what it is and it's not like I can complain about it. I kind of wish now that I had held off on a lot of those inexpensive fix jobs that I had done before. lol. DANG! Oh well, at least I can stare at her while having a cigar... lol.