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Poll: Did your disc brake conversion utilizing factory drum spindles turn out the way you wanted?

Did your disc brake conversion utilizing factory drum spindles turn out the way you wanted?


  • Total voters
    17
  • This poll will close: .

moparedtn

I got your Staff Member riiiight heeeere...
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I'd only like to hear from those who have chosen to convert their front brakes to disc by utilizing a "kit" that
uses the factory drum spindles already on the car from the factory.
- What brand/source did you choose to go with?
- Did you stick with manual or go whole hog for coverting to power at the same time?
- Did you replace the factory distribution block or go with a proportioning valve in the rear line - or even install
a factory type disc/drum distribution block?
- What size rotors did you go with?
- Most importantly - are you satisfied with the results? Are your brakes actually BETTER?

It's go or no go time for me to make the move and I just got my front end alignment checked; everything up front from a
steering point of view (including sway bar) is good to go, so obviously it would benefit me to go with a kit on the old spindles....
BUT....
If it isn't worth the trip, then none of that matters, eh?
 
There was a guy that posted over at DodgeCharger.com (Invincible Extremes) that had a thread about using a stock drum knuckle to install 4 and 6 piston aftermarket calipers.


Disc brake conversion using stock drum hubs and spindles 2 piston, 4 piston or 6

My car came with 10" drums all around. I swapped to A-body front discs within the first couple months of owning the car, I tossed the front drum assemblies because in 2000, nobody that I knew of was basing front disc brakes on the old drum knuckles. Maybe Wilwood was and I didn't know?
 
I went with a power brake kit from PST, made by Leed Brakes. 10" discs I think, nothing fancy, so I could use the 14" Magnum 500's I had.

Works great, strong & even braking, definitely better than the drums I had on it. Kit came with a proportioning valve but I didn't use it, just a new distribution block.

Very easy install, good instructions, and very good customer service. The first master cylinder had a rough top casting and leaked around the lid - Leed Brakes sent me a new master cylinder free of charge including postage, all the way to Australia.

Also before I had even installed them, I received a big padded envelope with 2 spacers in there. It seems they had sent out some kits with the wrong size spacers and then rectified the issue by tracking their sales and sending everyone the correct ones. I hadn't contacted them about this issue, I hadn't even opened the box at this stage as I was busy with home renovations.

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If your car is mainly used for cruising and car shows, and already has 11" drum brakes, converting to disc brakes may not be worth the time and expense for the improvement experienced. A power booster might be all you need.
I converted my 1967 R/T from stock non-assisted 11" drums to proper 4 -piston Bendix disc brake system 35 years ago, because I got all the parts for free. To date, 70,000 miles later, I have never had a minute's trouble with these brakes, but would not probably do it again. My 11" drums went on my 1964 Polara 500 convertible I was restoring, replacing the stock 10" drums.
About 40 years ago, I converted the front 10" drums on my 1964 Polara hardtop to single piston front disc brakes from a junkyard 1970 RoadRunner. At the time, I was pretty well using this car as my summertime drive-to-work vehicle. I was on the local VFD at the time, and ran out of brakes on a fire call with it one time with the stock drums. It scared the $Hit out of me, and I changed it to front discs. This was before any of the Mopar magazines were publishing articles on this, and I had to noodle it out myself. Biggest mistake was not realizing drum brake master cylinder and disc brake piece were different.
A few years later, I also converted the front 10" drums on my now summertime drive-to-work 1967 Coronet 3-seat wagon (my wife was now driving the '64 Polara to work), to the same single piston disc brakes. I later modified my wagon into a one-of-none 1967 R/T Station Wagon, complete with 440, 4-speed, and bucket seat interior.
From 1980 to 1995, I owned and built four Dodges. Parts were a lot easier to find, and a lot cheaper back then. I was pretty busy back then, but a lot younger. I still own the 1967 R/T hardtop, and the 1964 Polara 4-door hardtop.

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Scarebird is the question?
 
Ed,

I did not respond to the poll. I upgraded my 70 Road Runner using a Right Stuff kit that essentially made the front like 73/74 disc brakes. It has worked very well for me and I am very happy with my brakes. I cannot speak to other conversions.
 
One of first things I did to mine after I bought it 20 years plus ago. Stainless steel brake kit front and back. Has worked well with minimal issues since
 
I went with a power brake kit from PST, made by Leed Brakes. 10" discs I think, nothing fancy, so I could use the 14" Magnum 500's I had.

Works great, strong & even braking, definitely better than the drums I had on it. Kit came with a proportioning valve but I didn't use it, just a new distribution block.

Very easy install, good instructions, and very good customer service. The first master cylinder had a rough top casting and leaked around the lid - Leed Brakes sent me a new master cylinder free of charge including postage, all the way to Australia.

Also before I had even installed them, I received a big padded envelope with 2 spacers in there. It seems they had sent out some kits with the wrong size spacers and then rectified the issue by tracking their sales and sending everyone the correct ones. I hadn't contacted them about this issue, I hadn't even opened the box at this stage as I was busy with home renovations.

View attachment 1759415View attachment 1759417
Thank you for your review on a kit utilizing the stock drum spindles. :thumbsup:
If your car is mainly used for cruising and car shows, and already has 11" drum brakes, converting to disc brakes may not be worth the time and expense for the improvement experienced. A power booster might be all you need.
I converted my 1967 R/T from stock non-assisted 11" drums to proper 4 -piston Bendix disc brake system 35 years ago, because I got all the parts for free. To date, 70,000 miles later, I have never had a minute's trouble with these brakes, but would not probably do it again. My 11" drums went on my 1964 Polara 500 convertible I was restoring, replacing the stock 10" drums.
About 40 years ago, I converted the front 10" drums on my 1964 Polara hardtop to single piston front disc brakes from a junkyard 1970 RoadRunner. At the time, I was pretty well using this car as my summertime drive-to-work vehicle. I was on the local VFD at the time, and ran out of brakes on a fire call with it one time with the stock drums. It scared the $Hit out of me, and I changed it to front discs. This was before any of the Mopar magazines were publishing articles on this, and I had to noodle it out myself. Biggest mistake was not realizing drum brake master cylinder and disc brake piece were different.
A few years later, I also converted the front 10" drums on my now summertime drive-to-work 1967 Coronet 3-seat wagon (my wife was now driving the '64 Polara to work), to the same single piston disc brakes. I later modified my wagon into a one-of-none 1967 R/T Station Wagon, complete with 440, 4-speed, and bucket seat interior.
From 1980 to 1995, I owned and built four Dodges. Parts were a lot easier to find, and a lot cheaper back then. I was pretty busy back then, but a lot younger. I still own the 1967 R/T hardtop, and the 1964 Polara 4-door hardtop.
Ed,

I did not respond to the poll. I upgraded my 70 Road Runner using a Right Stuff kit that essentially made the front like 73/74 disc brakes. It has worked very well for me and I am very happy with my brakes. I cannot speak to other conversions.
Gentlemen:
Although I appreciate your contributions, my request was very specific:
"I'd only like to hear from those who have chosen to convert their front brakes to disc by utilizing a "kit" that
uses the factory drum spindles already on the car from the factory."


Scarebird is the question?
Have you used them, Bill?
 
One of first things I did to mine after I bought it 20 years plus ago. Stainless steel brake kit front and back. Has worked well with minimal issues since
That's great, but you didn't mention any of the details on what you have - or even if they utilized the original factory drum
spindles for that matter. Care to elaborate?
 
I can. Yes they used stock drum spindles and still do. Stainless steel brake co was manufacturer. I bought both front and rear kits. Each kit was about $600 about 20 years ago. As an aside at that time I had not informed my wife that I had bought a 69 roadrunner. All was going well delaying my exposure until the brake company sent a copy of the invoice to the house. That one cost me a new kitchen. Both kits have worked well since installation. Only change I would make is a larger front disc since I have increased the size of the wheels from stock.m
 
I can. Yes they used stock drum spindles and still do. Stainless steel brake co was manufacturer. I bought both front and rear kits. Each kit was about $600 about 20 years ago. As an aside at that time I had not informed my wife that I had bought a 69 roadrunner. All was going well delaying my exposure until the brake company sent a copy of the invoice to the house. That one cost me a new kitchen. Both kits have worked well since installation. Only change I would make is a larger front disc since I have increased the size of the wheels from stock.m
Ah the old SSBC, thank you.
I actually had one of their front kits on my workbench a couple years back, bought from Summit - when I found
out SSBC had declared bankruptcy.
I immediately got Summit on the phone and chewed some *** over that one - they hadn't mentioned anything
about the sudden shutdown at SSBC and had instead chosen just to sell off the kits they had in stock at a discount quietly.

Not only was I concerned about future support or parts availability, but it pissed me off how Summit just kept mum.
That's not how I do business and it sure won't be how anyone does me in business.
 
I did use factory drum spindles on Wilwood 14” kit and added Hydroboost kit also. Have not driven the car since installed to many projects. Worked with customer service to order the correct kit when on smoothly. Found this picture of the adaptor kit.
IMG_0811.jpeg
 
I did use factory drum spindles on Wilwood 14” kit and added Hydroboost kit also. Have not driven the car since installed to many projects. Worked with customer service to order the correct kit when on smoothly. Found this picture of the adaptor kit.View attachment 1759539
I'd seriously consider Wilwood, but their stock spindle kit would require my removing the center caps on my 15"
Magnum 500 wheels - and I'm not interested in doing that, so...
 
Ed, I have been useing my scarebird set up for 2 years now.
I have yet to see or feel a problem.
A well thought out set up, stops straight & better than my old front drums.
It was very easy to install.
I know they were out of parts/ brackets for awhile but I think they are back.
 
Ed, I have been useing my scarebird set up for 2 years now.
I have yet to see or feel a problem.
A well thought out set up, stops straight & better than my old front drums.
It was very easy to install.
I know they were out of parts/ brackets for awhile but I think they are back.
Yeah, they were out for quite a while.
What rotors/size, calipers, etc. does their setup use?
 
Yeah, they were out for quite a while.
What rotors/size, calipers, etc. does their setup use?
Ed i know they used a lincoln rotor 10.75"
It was ethire, gm celebrity or cavalier calipers and caddy brake hoses.
I have all the parts # in the glove box in my 67. I can get at them tomarrow if you want.
The set fits my 14" oem steel wheels.
 
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