Poll: Did your disc brake conversion utilizing factory drum spindles turn out the way you wanted?

[1967coronet]

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Under $300 disc brake conversion.​

• Thread starter1967coronet
• Start dateJan 21, 2022

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1967coronet​

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It was time for a brake job on my 67 coronet.
It needed pretty much everything 10" drums, cylinders, hoses , shoes the works.
I had read in mopar action Erinburgs article on the Scarebird brackets and parts list for a disc swap. So away I went. The brackets and hardware from scarebird along with parts list and instructions came in at $113 with shipping.
My local bill at my automotive for calipers , shoes, and hoses was $120.
A set of Ford/lincoln 10.5 rotors by raybestos off ebay was $41 So all in for $274.00
This is a manual not power set up sized to work with the manual master. I went with the 10.5 set up so I could retain my steel 14" wheels.
My master cyl. is in good shape so no change there.
With this setup you reuse your original hubs. My bearings and races were good and just needed trip through the parts washer and a repack. I had a pair of seals for the hubs.
I've had it out just around the block a couple times because of weather no real hyw. Test but the around town and pedal feel is great.
If needed I may have to install a proportion valve in the rear line but I will wait until spring and get some testing on a wet road ect.

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RemCharger​

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Thanks! Nice write up. So which rotors exactly are these?

I could probably do 10 of these in a row, everyone is always asking.

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Sahara​

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I’m waiting for the Scarebird rear disc kit to arrive in the mail any day now. Can’t wait to get it.

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1967coronet​

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Thanks! Nice write up. So which rotors exactly are these?

I could probably do 10 of these in a row, everyone is always asking.

91 lincoln mark V11.
The fit on the hub is tight , I did a little clearance on the hub hole with my die grinder and knurled bit, couple swipes around and she slipped right on.
Scarebird warns about the tight fit.

 

[qkcuda]

I did the Scarebird conversion as well, and I am very happy with it. I run manual brakes with a 1 1/32 master , and I find the pedal effort fine. If a 1" or 15/16 master had been more readily available I might have used that. I just realized that the rotors look tiny in this picture, but that is because I am running aftermarket 17 inch wheels

 

[Kern Dog]

Am I to understand that the only reason you don't want to just default to specific disc brake knuckles is to avoid the cost of another front end alignment?
What if the end result is a factory engineered system that is safe and superior to other options?
For me, I was always able to find '73-76 disc brake A body cars or the 80s Fifth Avenues to pull the parts I'd need. The cost of getting an alignment was never a deterrent to the end goal.

 

[moparedtn]

Am I to understand that the only reason you don't want to just default to specific disc brake knuckles is to avoid the cost of another front end alignment?
What if the end result is a factory engineered system that is safe and superior to other options?
For me, I was always able to find '73-76 disc brake A body cars or the 80s Fifth Avenues to pull the parts I'd need. The cost of getting an alignment was never a deterrent to the end goal.

That's not the purpose of this thread nor is it what I've specifically asked for in it.
I don't wish to have that debate yet again for a myriad of reasons.

 

[moparedtn]

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Under $300 disc brake conversion.​

• Thread starter1967coronet
• Start dateJan 21, 2022

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• Jan 21, 2022
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1967coronet​

FBBO Gold Member​

FBBO Gold Member
Local time9:33 PMJoinedJun 19, 2014Messages6,183Reaction score10,380LocationIowa
It was time for a brake job on my 67 coronet.
It needed pretty much everything 10" drums, cylinders, hoses , shoes the works.
I had read in mopar action Erinburgs article on the Scarebird brackets and parts list for a disc swap. So away I went. The brackets and hardware from scarebird along with parts list and instructions came in at $113 with shipping.
My local bill at my automotive for calipers , shoes, and hoses was $120.
A set of Ford/lincoln 10.5 rotors by raybestos off ebay was $41 So all in for $274.00
This is a manual not power set up sized to work with the manual master. I went with the 10.5 set up so I could retain my steel 14" wheels.
My master cyl. is in good shape so no change there.
With this setup you reuse your original hubs. My bearings and races were good and just needed trip through the parts washer and a repack. I had a pair of seals for the hubs.
I've had it out just around the block a couple times because of weather no real hyw. Test but the around town and pedal feel is great.
If needed I may have to install a proportion valve in the rear line but I will wait until spring and get some testing on a wet road ect.

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RemCharger​

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Local time9:33 PMJoinedApr 5, 2014Messages9,552Reaction score12,839LocationSask
Thanks! Nice write up. So which rotors exactly are these?

I could probably do 10 of these in a row, everyone is always asking.

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Sahara​

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Local time8:33 PMJoinedJan 18, 2017Messages3,182Reaction score7,502LocationWay North Canada. Polar Bear shaped license plates
I’m waiting for the Scarebird rear disc kit to arrive in the mail any day now. Can’t wait to get it.

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1967coronet​

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Local time9:33 PMJoinedJun 19, 2014Messages6,183Reaction score10,380LocationIowa

91 lincoln mark V11.
The fit on the hub is tight , I did a little clearance on the hub hole with my die grinder and knurled bit, couple swipes around and she slipped right on.
Scarebird warns about the tight fit.

Thanky kindly sir.

The Scarebird is definitely a candidate, especially the larger of the two setups that utilizes the 11.75" Cordoba rotors.

 

[Mopar Hunter]

What brand/source did you choose to go with?

Baer Brakes.

Did you stick with manual or go whole hog for coverting to power at the same time?

Already had power drums.

Did you replace the factory distribution block or go with a proportioning valve in the rear line - or even install
a factory type disc/drum distribution block?

I used a factory distribution block that I gutted.

What size rotors did you go with?

Front 11”, rear 11.35”.

Most importantly - are you satisfied with the results? Are your brakes actually BETTER?

I didn’t have the means to finish installing the front kit.



I bought kits from Baer Brakes, front disc and rear disc. When I was mocking up everything, the rear went on fine, but the front knuckles needed to be notched and I wasn’t willing to do that. I’m thinking I might have these Baer Brake kits up for sale.

I know you only asked about the front.

 

[moparedtn]

Baer Brakes.

Already had power drums.

I used a factory distribution block that I gutted.

Front 11”, rear 11.35”.

I didn’t have the means to finish installing the front kit.



I bought kits from Baer Brakes, front disc and rear disc. When I was mocking up everything, the rear went on fine, but the front spindles needed to be notched and I wasn’t willing to do that. I’m thinking I might have these Baer Brake kits up for sale.

I know you only asked about the front.

Thanks. What puzzles me about Baer is that their website shows nothing available for our b-bodies for whatever reason.
I know that's a quality company (read: pricy) but the closest I can manage with their application list is the 70-72 e-body
factory disc. Beats me?

 

[Mopar Hunter]

Thanks. What puzzles me about Baer is that their website shows nothing available for our b-bodies for whatever reason.
I know that's a quality company (read: pricy) but the closest I can manage with their application list is the 70-72 e-body
factory disc. Beats me?

Ed remind me what car you have?

I remember now, a beautiful 1968 Plymouth GTX, correct?

 

[Mopar Hunter]

Holley bought Baer Brakes and they screwed up Baer’s website. If you’re interested in Baer Brakes, search on Summit Racing website.

 

[moparedtn]

Holley bought Baer Brakes and they screwed up Baer’s website. If you’re interested in Baer Brakes, search on Summit Racing website.

What made it necessary to notch the spindles?

 

[Mopar Hunter]

What made it necessary to notch the spindles?

To mount the caliber brackets. If you’re going with a bigger rotor, I don’t know if you’ll need to notch the knuckle.

 

[Mopar Hunter]

Here’s some pictures from my instructions of the front of the spindle, and the rear. Where the red arrow is pointing is where I had to notch it.

 

[Kern Dog]

To mount the caliber brackets. If you’re going with a bigger rotor, I don’t know if you’ll need to notch the spindle.

Technically, the yellow arrow points to the spindle. Red arrows refer to the whole forging which is known as a Knuckle.

See below.

 

[SeabeckRedneck]

I'm afraid to say anything for fear of getting it wrong and getting blasted, but for my 68 Charger, I used a Wilwood kit on my drum spindles and it bolted right up. I have a Wilwood kit for my current project. Look 'em up!

 

[Mopar Hunter]

I'm afraid to say anything for fear of getting it wrong and getting blasted,

Don’t ever be afraid to post, some like to beat their chest before they criticize and get up into their high lift truck.

What kind of wheels are you running with your Wilwood brakes?