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Poll: Did your disc brake conversion utilizing factory drum spindles turn out the way you wanted?

Did your disc brake conversion utilizing factory drum spindles turn out the way you wanted?

  • Total voters
    17
  • Poll closed .
For B Bodies Only Classic Mopar Forum
1967coronet

Under $300 disc brake conversion.​


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1967coronet​

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Local time9:33 PMJoinedJun 19, 2014Messages6,183Reaction score10,380LocationIowa
It was time for a brake job on my 67 coronet.
It needed pretty much everything 10" drums, cylinders, hoses , shoes the works.
I had read in mopar action Erinburgs article on the Scarebird brackets and parts list for a disc swap. So away I went. The brackets and hardware from scarebird along with parts list and instructions came in at $113 with shipping.
My local bill at my automotive for calipers , shoes, and hoses was $120.
A set of Ford/lincoln 10.5 rotors by raybestos off ebay was $41 So all in for $274.00
This is a manual not power set up sized to work with the manual master. I went with the 10.5 set up so I could retain my steel 14" wheels.
My master cyl. is in good shape so no change there.
With this setup you reuse your original hubs. My bearings and races were good and just needed trip through the parts washer and a repack. I had a pair of seals for the hubs.
I've had it out just around the block a couple times because of weather no real hyw. Test but the around town and pedal feel is great.
If needed I may have to install a proportion valve in the rear line but I will wait until spring and get some testing on a wet road ect.
20220108_131053.jpg


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RemCharger​

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Local time9:33 PMJoinedApr 5, 2014Messages9,552Reaction score12,839LocationSask
Thanks! Nice write up. So which rotors exactly are these?

I could probably do 10 of these in a row, everyone is always asking.

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Sahara​

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Local time8:33 PMJoinedJan 18, 2017Messages3,182Reaction score7,502LocationWay North Canada. Polar Bear shaped license plates
I’m waiting for the Scarebird rear disc kit to arrive in the mail any day now. Can’t wait to get it.

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1967coronet​

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Local time9:33 PMJoinedJun 19, 2014Messages6,183Reaction score10,380LocationIowa
RemCharger said:
Thanks! Nice write up. So which rotors exactly are these?

I could probably do 10 of these in a row, everyone is always asking.
Click to expand...
91 lincoln mark V11.
The fit on the hub is tight , I did a little clearance on the hub hole with my die grinder and knurled bit, couple swipes around and she slipped right on.
Scarebird warns about the tight fit.
 
I did the Scarebird conversion as well, and I am very happy with it. I run manual brakes with a 1 1/32 master , and I find the pedal effort fine. If a 1" or 15/16 master had been more readily available I might have used that. I just realized that the rotors look tiny in this picture, but that is because I am running aftermarket 17 inch wheels

IMG_20230709_144143818.jpg
 
Am I to understand that the only reason you don't want to just default to specific disc brake knuckles is to avoid the cost of another front end alignment?
What if the end result is a factory engineered system that is safe and superior to other options?
For me, I was always able to find '73-76 disc brake A body cars or the 80s Fifth Avenues to pull the parts I'd need. The cost of getting an alignment was never a deterrent to the end goal.
 
Kern Dog said:
Am I to understand that the only reason you don't want to just default to specific disc brake knuckles is to avoid the cost of another front end alignment?
What if the end result is a factory engineered system that is safe and superior to other options?
For me, I was always able to find '73-76 disc brake A body cars or the 80s Fifth Avenues to pull the parts I'd need. The cost of getting an alignment was never a deterrent to the end goal.
Click to expand...
That's not the purpose of this thread nor is it what I've specifically asked for in it.
I don't wish to have that debate yet again for a myriad of reasons.
 
Last edited:
1967coronet said:
For B Bodies Only Classic Mopar Forum
1967coronet

Under $300 disc brake conversion.​


Watch
[IMG alt="1967coronet"][URL][URL][URL]https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/data/avatars/m/17/17352.jpg?1466280328[/IMG][/URL][/URL][/URL]

1967coronet​

FBBO Gold Member​


FBBO Gold Member
Local time9:33 PMJoinedJun 19, 2014Messages6,183Reaction score10,380LocationIowa
It was time for a brake job on my 67 coronet.
It needed pretty much everything 10" drums, cylinders, hoses , shoes the works.
I had read in mopar action Erinburgs article on the Scarebird brackets and parts list for a disc swap. So away I went. The brackets and hardware from scarebird along with parts list and instructions came in at $113 with shipping.
My local bill at my automotive for calipers , shoes, and hoses was $120.
A set of Ford/lincoln 10.5 rotors by raybestos off ebay was $41 So all in for $274.00
This is a manual not power set up sized to work with the manual master. I went with the 10.5 set up so I could retain my steel 14" wheels.
My master cyl. is in good shape so no change there.
With this setup you reuse your original hubs. My bearings and races were good and just needed trip through the parts washer and a repack. I had a pair of seals for the hubs.
I've had it out just around the block a couple times because of weather no real hyw. Test but the around town and pedal feel is great.
If needed I may have to install a proportion valve in the rear line but I will wait until spring and get some testing on a wet road ect.
20220108_131053.jpg


Quote Reply
Report
[IMG alt="RemCharger"][URL][URL][URL]https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/data/avatars/m/16/16430.jpg?1614961123[/IMG][/URL][/URL][/URL]

RemCharger​

FBBO Gold Member​


FBBO Gold Member
Local time9:33 PMJoinedApr 5, 2014Messages9,552Reaction score12,839LocationSask
Thanks! Nice write up. So which rotors exactly are these?

I could probably do 10 of these in a row, everyone is always asking.

Quote Reply
Report

[IMG alt="Sahara"][URL][URL][URL]https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/data/avatars/m/26/26467.jpg?1504279853[/IMG][/URL][/URL][/URL]

Sahara​

FBBO Gold Member​


FBBO Gold Member
Local time8:33 PMJoinedJan 18, 2017Messages3,182Reaction score7,502LocationWay North Canada. Polar Bear shaped license plates
I’m waiting for the Scarebird rear disc kit to arrive in the mail any day now. Can’t wait to get it.

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1967coronet​

FBBO Gold Member​


FBBO Gold Member
Local time9:33 PMJoinedJun 19, 2014Messages6,183Reaction score10,380LocationIowa

91 lincoln mark V11.
The fit on the hub is tight , I did a little clearance on the hub hole with my die grinder and knurled bit, couple swipes around and she slipped right on.
Scarebird warns about the tight fit.
Click to expand...
Thanky kindly sir. :thumbsup:

The Scarebird is definitely a candidate, especially the larger of the two setups that utilizes the 11.75" Cordoba rotors.
 
moparedtn said:
What brand/source did you choose to go with?
Click to expand...
Baer Brakes.
moparedtn said:
Did you stick with manual or go whole hog for coverting to power at the same time?
Click to expand...
Already had power drums.
moparedtn said:
Did you replace the factory distribution block or go with a proportioning valve in the rear line - or even install
a factory type disc/drum distribution block?
Click to expand...
I used a factory distribution block that I gutted.
moparedtn said:
What size rotors did you go with?
Click to expand...
Front 11”, rear 11.35”.
moparedtn said:
Most importantly - are you satisfied with the results? Are your brakes actually BETTER?
Click to expand...
I didn’t have the means to finish installing the front kit.



I bought kits from Baer Brakes, front disc and rear disc. When I was mocking up everything, the rear went on fine, but the front knuckles needed to be notched and I wasn’t willing to do that. I’m thinking I might have these Baer Brake kits up for sale.

I know you only asked about the front.
 
Last edited:
Mopar Hunter said:
Baer Brakes.

Already had power drums.

I used a factory distribution block that I gutted.

Front 11”, rear 11.35”.

I didn’t have the means to finish installing the front kit.



I bought kits from Baer Brakes, front disc and rear disc. When I was mocking up everything, the rear went on fine, but the front spindles needed to be notched and I wasn’t willing to do that. I’m thinking I might have these Baer Brake kits up for sale.

I know you only asked about the front.
Click to expand...
Thanks. What puzzles me about Baer is that their website shows nothing available for our b-bodies for whatever reason.
I know that's a quality company (read: pricy) but the closest I can manage with their application list is the 70-72 e-body
factory disc. Beats me?
 
moparedtn said:
Thanks. What puzzles me about Baer is that their website shows nothing available for our b-bodies for whatever reason.
I know that's a quality company (read: pricy) but the closest I can manage with their application list is the 70-72 e-body
factory disc. Beats me?
Click to expand...
Ed remind me what car you have?

I remember now, a beautiful 1968 Plymouth GTX, correct?
 
Last edited:
Holley bought Baer Brakes and they screwed up Baer’s website. If you’re interested in Baer Brakes, search on Summit Racing website.
 
Mopar Hunter said:
Holley bought Baer Brakes and they screwed up Baer’s website. If you’re interested in Baer Brakes, search on Summit Racing website.
Click to expand...
What made it necessary to notch the spindles?
 
Here’s some pictures from my instructions of the front of the spindle, and the rear. Where the red arrow is pointing is where I had to notch it.

IMG_9409.jpeg
IMG_9410.jpeg
 
Mopar Hunter said:
To mount the caliber brackets. If you’re going with a bigger rotor, I don’t know if you’ll need to notch the spindle.
Click to expand...
Technically, the yellow arrow points to the spindle. Red arrows refer to the whole forging which is known as a Knuckle.

KN 9.JPG


See below.

1731923857765.jpeg
 
I'm afraid to say anything for fear of getting it wrong and getting blasted, but for my 68 Charger, I used a Wilwood kit on my drum spindles and it bolted right up. I have a Wilwood kit for my current project. Look 'em up!
 
SeabeckRedneck said:
I'm afraid to say anything for fear of getting it wrong and getting blasted, but for my 68 Charger, I used a Wilwood kit on my drum spindles and it bolted right up. I have a Wilwood kit for my current project. Look 'em up!
Click to expand...
1. Never let the **** Annies hold you back - and yeah, there's a few of them here.
2. Yes, I'm well aware of the Wilwood kit for drum spindles and I'd love to use them - but they're well known
to cause an unsolvable interference with the center cap assemblies on the Magnum 500 wheels, as I've already
stated previously in this very thread.
I won't be giving up my wheels for this conversion.
Thanks!
 
Dave6T4 said:
If your car is mainly used for cruising and car shows, and already has 11" drum brakes, converting to disc brakes may not be worth the time and expense for the improvement experienced. A power booster might be all you need.
I converted my 1967 R/T from stock non-assisted 11" drums to proper 4 -piston Bendix disc brake system 35 years ago, because I got all the parts for free. To date, 70,000 miles later, I have never had a minute's trouble with these brakes, but would not probably do it again. My 11" drums went on my 1964 Polara 500 convertible I was restoring, replacing the stock 10" drums.
About 40 years ago, I converted the front 10" drums on my 1964 Polara hardtop to single piston front disc brakes from a junkyard 1970 RoadRunner. At the time, I was pretty well using this car as my summertime drive-to-work vehicle. I was on the local VFD at the time, and ran out of brakes on a fire call with it one time with the stock drums. It scared the $Hit out of me, and I changed it to front discs. This was before any of the Mopar magazines were publishing articles on this, and I had to noodle it out myself. Biggest mistake was not realizing drum brake master cylinder and disc brake piece were different.
A few years later, I also converted the front 10" drums on my now summertime drive-to-work 1967 Coronet 3-seat wagon (my wife was now driving the '64 Polara to work), to the same single piston disc brakes. I later modified my wagon into a one-of-none 1967 R/T Station Wagon, complete with 440, 4-speed, and bucket seat interior.
From 1980 to 1995, I owned and built four Dodges. Parts were a lot easier to find, and a lot cheaper back then. I was pretty busy back then, but a lot younger. I still own the 1967 R/T hardtop, and the 1964 Polara 4-door hardtop.

View attachment 1759448

View attachment 1759449

View attachment 1759450

View attachment 1759451

View attachment 1759453

View attachment 1759454
Click to expand...
That's great to hear. I'm restoring my 70 coronet that I purchased in high school in1978 my 1st car. I'm converting 10 inch drums in front to disc using the smaller set up so I can use my 14 inch rims I have from 1979. Nice cars you have there. I'll post pics of my coronet as soon as I'm finished.
 
SeabeckRedneck said:
I'm afraid to say anything for fear of getting it wrong and getting blasted, but for my 68 Charger, I used a Wilwood kit on my drum spindles and it bolted right up. I have a Wilwood kit for my current project. Look 'em up!
Click to expand...
Appreciate you sharing this. I want to go with the Wilwood kit on my 63. Car came with a power disc conversion using later model reproduction spindles still in the box. With the terrible drivers around here I’m going to need 600hp brakes to go with the motor.
 
A long time ago, before kids, I started to collect parts for a Scarebird kit but even up parking the car for too long. Recently getting it back to where I can work on it, I priced out all the parts for it. At the same time I discovered the Invincibleextremes Musclecar kit (linked previously). While for me the adaptors were more than the Scarebird (Canadian $ plus shipping) I think it's a better value.

As it uses 2005 and up mustang rotors and calipers, braking goes from Scarebirds single piston calipers and 11.75 inch rotors to mustangs dual piston calipers (or Brembo options) with a variety of rotors from 11.5 to 13.5 (or so) and up. You must run wheels larger than 15 inches is the hiccup. I wants going to with 15s so for me having the option to go big for the same price made more sense.

Parts were cheap/free as mustang owners upgrade to Brembos and want to give they're old junk away!

I've not got it complete yet, but I assume it will stop like a modern ish mustang which is fine with me. Plus napa, rock auto etc has replacements at better prices than the parts for a Scarebird part list

20210412_153427.jpg
 
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