67Satty
Well-Known Member
His price is now down to $500 for a set of ready to bolt on 906s with 2.14 intakes, 1.81 exhausts and a flow sheet showing they flow near 270 cfm intake. I think I may take a chance on them.
Ported 906 Heads Good Deal?
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HT413
Semi Pro Bowler
That's a deal.
1wild&crazyguy
Well-Known Member
Very good deal, can you post the flow sheet?
You can go very fast and tick off the aluminum head crowd with a set of iron properly done, a lot of people just don't know anyone who can do the right work.
fyi You would be spending twice that or more on a set of aluminum heads by the time they are bolted on and running.
1wild&crazyguy
Well-Known Member
Hate it when that happens.
They are good heads though if you do the work right, but you gotta be careful not to end up neck & neck on cost in compared to 440 source aluminum.
I got 281 cfm @.500 lift with a stock style 2.08 intake valve.
HT413
Semi Pro Bowler
Tough loss. Go aluminum.
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4 hours one way? Just that would make me not even bother lol. There's a lot of Eddy heads out there for decent money that flow those numbers and better out of the box not to mention that the stock type heads would have to be max ported to flow what the OOTB Eddys do and then you have to be concerned about the iron heads cracking. Many never think about checking core shift in heads like they do on a block and if you ain't careful, you can get heads that are pretty thin in the wrong places.
Mopar Man 73
Well-Known Member
One of my co-workers has a nice pair of professionally ported 906 heads for sale. I can ask him more details and a price if you're still looking for some low cost iron heads? He is in O.C. So not to far from Oceanside.
Mopar Man 73
Well-Known Member
Ok cool, please PM me as a reminder and I will foward you all the information on the heads.
1965wagon
Well-Known Member
I have heard from a very good cylinder head guy that the 440 source stuff has a real problem with thin seats and also the valve seats are very hard and tind to chip!
- - - Updated - - -
Also I have a very well pre paired 906 head on my 440 that is 12:1 and in my 4000+ pound wagon runs mid 12s just my .02
- - - Updated - - -
Also I have a very well pre paired 906 head on my 440 that is 12:1 and in my 4000+ pound wagon runs mid 12s just my .02
reeltime
Active Member
906 Heads
I took all the old 906 heads I had and sold for scrap.
I would go and buy a New set of Sidewinder Heads. They cost about $ 895.00 a set. They flow well,are made well. A friend has them on his Procharged 440 running mid nines at 149 mph. On a street tune in a Super Bee street car. Get a hold of Larry Smith he can set you up. If you do not know him he does outstanding head porting.Just google him.
I took all the old 906 heads I had and sold for scrap.
I would go and buy a New set of Sidewinder Heads. They cost about $ 895.00 a set. They flow well,are made well. A friend has them on his Procharged 440 running mid nines at 149 mph. On a street tune in a Super Bee street car. Get a hold of Larry Smith he can set you up. If you do not know him he does outstanding head porting.Just google him.
I bowl ported a pair of 906 for a buddy's 66 Coronet 383. .500 hyd cam, performer RPM, eddy 650 he0aders,4.10. Stock short block and converter. Never been to the track but it feels like a solid 13 second car. Runs on 86 octane.
Doug
Doug
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Great price
I have "massaged" 906s on the 383 I have stored for the Superbee with the 426 Hemi.
I personally like the 906s and the 452s
Yes, they are cast iron.
The 67 GTX I picked up last year has the 440 Source Stealth's, man they are LIGHT!
Cool!
Check out Mopar Man 73s idea!
Sounds fantastic!
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67satty Seeing, reading & actually responding to a bunch of your post,
I think we've covered this a few times already too...
A wise ol'man that was schooled in such things, once told me
"3 major things you need to know about making real power",
grasshopper...LOL
Paraphrasing of course;
#1 it's the Cylinder-heads, #2 cylinder-heads, #3 cylinder-heads dummie...LOL
maybe;
Get ahold of IQ52 his screen name, he may even have a set ready to go...
Jim LaRoy is professional head porter engine builder, he's out of Challis Idaho
he also has done some great stuff with iron heads/906's,
IF that the route you want,
IMO he'd probably recommend going to a lighter, bigger valve-d, better port,
smaller chamber, much better flow OOTB {out of the box} to begin with,
before porting, starting with a better aluminum head thou...
BUT;
He can do wonders with an iron set too, 740hp IIRC in a Dyno Contest,
limited budget & resources etc.,but you'd probably will be limited for sure,
JUST remember labor cost isn't cheap, less time with a peanut grinder
equals less $$$ spent & more for the results...
I've seen 906's ported out to 320+cfm, @ about 2hp/per-cfm = 640hp
that's only If they're done right & you have a really good bottom end, to make it work...
Also usually with thin walls &/or a bunch of epoxy, limited on push-rod size etc.
A good example is the highly popular
Cost wise bang for you buck Eddy RPM's are not bad,
can run 3/8 push-rods & 1.6:1 rocker no problem, with little to no fitment problems
need custom length push rods, check the length @ a min,
special head bolts & washers @ a min & some good head gaskets {Commetic or FelPro etc.}
they come in 75cc, 84cc or 88cc combustion chambers
2.14 in & 1.81 ex valves, can put even larger vales if necessary & gain even more flow
they flow great OOTB 291cfm intake & 217cfm exhaust @ 0.600 lift,
even much better if professionally ported,
something like 70#'s lighter & have good "all American made" parts...
I use them on my street/strip car, {I had Stealth's too, long story}
I've gone 8.58 @ 156 with a set too, on my ol' silver 3520# 68 RR,
albeit fully ported larger valve version, done by a guy Mark Rowe {RIP}
I have a set of mildly ported RPM versions on my current
68 RR 6bbl street/strip cruiser too...
what can I say, if it works I stick with it, loyal as a good dog...
don't take me out of context or wrong;
There're better race heads, out there too, there's bigger port heads too,
Max Wedge Ports, there's raise ports, a total gamete of choices now etc. etc. etc.
IMO it depends really on your specific budget, what you actually need & want,
how much your willing to spend & how fast you want to really go...
I've used all kinds & brands, depending on what build...
Weight savings alone between iron & aluminum is worth 0.07 et,
not to say the performance gains of a better designed head ports,
even out of the box, compared to most ported 906's
let alone the weight transfer from getting the 70#'s weight off the nose of the car...
It costs about $700-$900 more to start with, for a decent/good alum. head
over a used set of iron ported heads
than the Stealth's a little more to make them work as well but ,
I won't really go into all the details, they can be made to work well too,
don't confuse what I'm saying, but they don't flow as well as some think OOTB,
I've seen flow #'s all over the map from 230cfm -250cfm intake @ 0.600 lift
{compared to 291cfm @ 0.0600 gross lift RPM's}
that's a few hundred $$$ in porting right there, anyway I'm not going off on a tangent,
but they don't compare OOTB to the RPM's thou,
but it's money well spent in the right place...
I'm not saying you need to buy the RPM's
I'm saying they are just a good bang for the buck, somewhat budget build choice...
About $1000 less than some comparable or slightly better heads,
I'd personally rather spend that on professional port work, instead...
Or by Victors but that requires more $$$, work & specialty parts,
it's probably overkill for your street/strip combo too...
It's a choice only you can make, but I've been down both paths &
I can tell you I'd go with a quality alum. head any-day now,
it's just a better way, easier way, lighter way & yes more expensive way,
add some specific porting for what you need & want, or buy them CNC ported OOTB
not spend a bunch of $$$ on 40+ year old iron heads &
only to wish a few month later, that you would have just spent the money right in the 1st place...
yes there're some good ones {ported iron heads} out there too...
They usually won't be only $500 thou, if they are ?
there's usually a good reason why they're cheap, BUT you may get lucky too...LOL
Nothing wrong with a well ported set of Iron heads, don't get me wrong,
I'd just go & spend a little more now even if it's twice the cost &
not spend it twice only in another few months, regretting &/or wishing, kicking yourself...
I would have gone with a better design/lighter head to begin with...
I see it all the time, even guys stepping up to alum.,
wish they went the extra mile/cost & got a better head...
I know $$$ & initial costs of building a combo, can be a really big factor,
BUT you need to spend it wisely thou, cylinder heads aren't the place to cut corners,
IF you want to make more HP...
I'm certainly not rich either,
I want the best bang for the buck as much as I can...
Chose wisely grasshopper...LOL
Good luck either way...
I think we've covered this a few times already too...
A wise ol'man that was schooled in such things, once told me
"3 major things you need to know about making real power",
grasshopper...LOL
Paraphrasing of course;
#1 it's the Cylinder-heads, #2 cylinder-heads, #3 cylinder-heads dummie...LOL
maybe;
Get ahold of IQ52 his screen name, he may even have a set ready to go...
Jim LaRoy is professional head porter engine builder, he's out of Challis Idaho
he also has done some great stuff with iron heads/906's,
IF that the route you want,
IMO he'd probably recommend going to a lighter, bigger valve-d, better port,
smaller chamber, much better flow OOTB {out of the box} to begin with,
before porting, starting with a better aluminum head thou...
BUT;
He can do wonders with an iron set too, 740hp IIRC in a Dyno Contest,
limited budget & resources etc.,but you'd probably will be limited for sure,
JUST remember labor cost isn't cheap, less time with a peanut grinder
equals less $$$ spent & more for the results...
I've seen 906's ported out to 320+cfm, @ about 2hp/per-cfm = 640hp
that's only If they're done right & you have a really good bottom end, to make it work...
Also usually with thin walls &/or a bunch of epoxy, limited on push-rod size etc.
A good example is the highly popular
Cost wise bang for you buck Eddy RPM's are not bad,
can run 3/8 push-rods & 1.6:1 rocker no problem, with little to no fitment problems
need custom length push rods, check the length @ a min,
special head bolts & washers @ a min & some good head gaskets {Commetic or FelPro etc.}
they come in 75cc, 84cc or 88cc combustion chambers
2.14 in & 1.81 ex valves, can put even larger vales if necessary & gain even more flow
they flow great OOTB 291cfm intake & 217cfm exhaust @ 0.600 lift,
even much better if professionally ported,
something like 70#'s lighter & have good "all American made" parts...
I use them on my street/strip car, {I had Stealth's too, long story}
I've gone 8.58 @ 156 with a set too, on my ol' silver 3520# 68 RR,
albeit fully ported larger valve version, done by a guy Mark Rowe {RIP}
I have a set of mildly ported RPM versions on my current
68 RR 6bbl street/strip cruiser too...
what can I say, if it works I stick with it, loyal as a good dog...
don't take me out of context or wrong;
There're better race heads, out there too, there's bigger port heads too,
Max Wedge Ports, there's raise ports, a total gamete of choices now etc. etc. etc.
IMO it depends really on your specific budget, what you actually need & want,
how much your willing to spend & how fast you want to really go...
I've used all kinds & brands, depending on what build...
Weight savings alone between iron & aluminum is worth 0.07 et,
not to say the performance gains of a better designed head ports,
even out of the box, compared to most ported 906's
let alone the weight transfer from getting the 70#'s weight off the nose of the car...
It costs about $700-$900 more to start with, for a decent/good alum. head
over a used set of iron ported heads
than the Stealth's a little more to make them work as well but ,
I won't really go into all the details, they can be made to work well too,
don't confuse what I'm saying, but they don't flow as well as some think OOTB,
I've seen flow #'s all over the map from 230cfm -250cfm intake @ 0.600 lift
{compared to 291cfm @ 0.0600 gross lift RPM's}
that's a few hundred $$$ in porting right there, anyway I'm not going off on a tangent,
but they don't compare OOTB to the RPM's thou,
but it's money well spent in the right place...
I'm not saying you need to buy the RPM's
I'm saying they are just a good bang for the buck, somewhat budget build choice...
About $1000 less than some comparable or slightly better heads,
I'd personally rather spend that on professional port work, instead...
Or by Victors but that requires more $$$, work & specialty parts,
it's probably overkill for your street/strip combo too...
It's a choice only you can make, but I've been down both paths &
I can tell you I'd go with a quality alum. head any-day now,
it's just a better way, easier way, lighter way & yes more expensive way,
add some specific porting for what you need & want, or buy them CNC ported OOTB
not spend a bunch of $$$ on 40+ year old iron heads &
only to wish a few month later, that you would have just spent the money right in the 1st place...
yes there're some good ones {ported iron heads} out there too...
They usually won't be only $500 thou, if they are ?
there's usually a good reason why they're cheap, BUT you may get lucky too...LOL
Nothing wrong with a well ported set of Iron heads, don't get me wrong,
I'd just go & spend a little more now even if it's twice the cost &
not spend it twice only in another few months, regretting &/or wishing, kicking yourself...
I would have gone with a better design/lighter head to begin with...
I see it all the time, even guys stepping up to alum.,
wish they went the extra mile/cost & got a better head...
I know $$$ & initial costs of building a combo, can be a really big factor,
BUT you need to spend it wisely thou, cylinder heads aren't the place to cut corners,
IF you want to make more HP...
I'm certainly not rich either,
I want the best bang for the buck as much as I can...
Chose wisely grasshopper...LOL
Good luck either way...
Last edited:
Mocajava
Well-Known Member
Good discussion on heads. I am looking at the Toth heads for my 440 build. Talked to Bruce Toth and his heads will be stage 2 ported, fully dressed for the price of Eggy's with better flow.
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Never heard of Bruce Toth,
I went & checked him out on Google search....
Still don't really know or recognize him either...
Uses Chrysler Power castings I guess, that's what I got off his site,
a little background , not parts search or specific pricing...
I haven't really dealt with any of them CP heads either...
Didn't check out his Facebook listings,
I don't do Facebook, I've wasted enough time on the computer already...LOL
I went & checked him out on Google search....
Still don't really know or recognize him either...
Uses Chrysler Power castings I guess, that's what I got off his site,
a little background , not parts search or specific pricing...
I haven't really dealt with any of them CP heads either...
Didn't check out his Facebook listings,
I don't do Facebook, I've wasted enough time on the computer already...LOL
Last edited:
Hi
I would like to know more about them, ported to what flow, hardened seats, guides changed and all pertinent i fo icluding price?
Thanks
Bob K
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You are replying to something that was posted nearly five years ago plus he hasn't been on line since January....
LemonWedge
Well-Known Member
Unless I was pitting a stock eliminator setup together, I just wouldn’t step backwards in time for iron heads. Why pay a dime for something that doesn’t even come close to performing like the cheapest aftermarket heads you can find will?
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