Post your 10 second combo's

[evilmopar]

Holy f**k never thought i would be writing in this thread... after many years of running 14 to mid 13 sec runs... But with a new mill it went 10,97!

My Combo
1964 Plymouth Sport fury
Stock steel body, glass, bumbers all stock!
Suspension: Superstock leafsprings
Rear: Dana60 Detroit locker 4.10 gears
Transmission: stock ’68 TF727, Billet servos, bolton sprag, Cope valvebody, Custom made 10” converter
Engine: 440 source 440/500 stroker, 4.15 stroke
Untouched Trickflow 240 heads (too small to make real power)
Crane iron rockers 1,6 ratio
Untouched Trickflow Track heat intake
Brawler 950cfm race carb
Cam: Howards solid flat tappet
260/264@050, 0,656/0,661 lift (with 1,6)
Dyno at 607hp@5300 (valvefloat) have changed springs but not dynoed after.
890Nm of Torque more or less from 3K until 5300.

 

[Dodge 330]

Awesome!

 

[IQ52]

View attachment 1142172 Holy f**k never thought i would be writing in this thread... after many years of running 14 to mid 13 sec runs... But with a new mill it went 10,97!

My Combo
1964 Plymouth Sport fury
Stock steel body, glass, bumbers all stock!
Suspension: Superstock leafsprings
Rear: Dana60 Detroit locker 4.10 gears
Transmission: stock ’68 TF727, Billet servos, bolton sprag, Cope valvebody, Custom made 10” converter
Engine: 440 source 440/500 stroker, 4.15 stroke
Untouched Trickflow 240 heads (too small to make real power)
Crane iron rockers 1,6 ratio
Untouched Trickflow Track heat intake
Brawler 950cfm race carb
Cam: Howards solid flat tappet
260/264@050, 0,656/0,661 lift (with 1,6)
Dyno at 607hp@5300 (valvefloat) have changed springs but not dynoed after.
890Nm of Torque more or less from 3K until 5300. View attachment 1142173

If the Trick Flow 240 heads are "too small to make real power", what would be big enough to make "real power"?
And............what then would be "real power"?

 

[383man]

Trick flow heads all come CNC ported to my knowledge so yes the 240 heads can make nice power and do in many combo's. Ron

 

[Hemirunner]

If the Trick Flow 240 heads are "too small to make real power", what would be big enough to make "real power"?
And............what then would be "real power"?

I’ve heard that 906 heads are too small to make real power too

 

[66Satellite47]

I’ve heard that 906 heads are too small to make real power too

Ya, they probably don't. With my home ported, no flow bench 906's & 915's were going 10.50's in 1983 in my 3550# 65 Coronet 452". My guess is that is about 600 HP. No dyno. only track.

 

[IQ52]

I’ve heard that 906 heads are too small to make real power too

Yeah, pretty common 'knowledge' that no real power has ever been available from '906' heads.

 

[66Satellite47]

I'm pretty sure I topped out with mine.

 

[Bryon]

Alright fells I guess I’m gonna kick this thread in the head and get fussed at but as someone that’s looking to build a 10 second street strip car and I literally mean if it hits a 10.99 I’m done and happy with the car

what should I upgrade out of my current stuff
holley 850 Double Pumper
Torker II intake
.305 .525 Hydraulic
Speed pro L2355F pistons
forged crank
Standard 440 HP rods
452 Heads that’ll be getting some mild port work
A 23 Spline A833
An 8 3/4 with 4.30 Gears and a spool
I currently have a 29 12.50 tire

edit: forgot to mention and Harland Sharps adjustable rockers

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

Alright fells I guess I’m gonna kick this thread in the head and get fussed at but as someone that’s looking to build a 10 second street strip car and I literally mean if it hits a 10.99 I’m done and happy with the car

what should I upgrade out of my current stuff
holley 850 Double Pumper
Torker II intake
.305 .525 Hydraulic
Speed pro L2355F pistons
forged crank
Standard 440 HP rods
452 Heads that’ll be getting some mild port work
A 23 Spline A833
An 8 3/4 with 4.30 Gears and a spool
I currently have a 29 12.50 tire

edit: forgot to mention and Harland Sharps adjustable rockers

It would be easier to ask what doesn’t need upgraded unless its going in a tin can.. you should be able to use the carb and tires… your sitting on a 12 sec combo currently. To run 10.90’s with a 4 speed Is going to take a lot, including a Dana. I think we need to know more about the car and it’s weight.

 

[Cojohnso1]

It would be easier to ask what doesn’t need upgraded unless its going in a tin can.. you should be able to use the carb and tires… your sitting on a 12 sec combo currently. To run 10.90’s with a 4 speed Is going to take a lot, including a Dana. I think we need to know more about the car and it’s weight.

Hemi GTS is right. My 10 Duster was 10.80s with 451 build. 452 heads ported about the max. 10.25:1 comp pump gas 850 DP. .590 solid lift purple grind cam. 456 8 3/4 spool. 29.5x10.5 inch slicks. And that was a 3100lb car. with a 727 auto.

Don't be surprised if you come up short. Hell, I'm always slower than I was hoping?

 

[66Satellite47]

I got my '65 Coronet drag car down to about 3550# w/me in it. It eventually went 10.50 with a 400/452 low deck, lite pistons, heavily ported 906 or 915 heads, tunnel ram w/2 650 DP's, either .645 solid mushroom cam or a .690 solid roller. This in the mid '80's. My current Satellite is 3750#, streetable, 512" 12.4 CR 600 ish custom Comp cam, Indy heads & intake, 1050 Dominator, 11.5 x 28 tires, 4.10 gear Dana, 10.50 @ 128. 9 3/4 Lupo Dynamic convertor. Lots more performance left in it to find. With the 500" 10.5 CR, EDDE RPM heads & antique 565 Cam Dynamics cam, Torker 850 DP, 10" Turbo Action convertor, it went 11.20's.
It will take a lot of work on the 452 heads to get the flow you need. The Torker is probably not going to make it. Not sure what cam it would take. Eventually you will likely want a Dana behind the 4 spd. Also have a good driveshaft made.

 

[Bryon]

It would be easier to ask what doesn’t need upgraded unless its going in a tin can.. you should be able to use the carb and tires… your sitting on a 12 sec combo currently. To run 10.90’s with a 4 speed Is going to take a lot, including a Dana. I think we need to know more about the car and it’s weight.

i don’t think the Dana will be necessary I know a few 10 second cars that run an 8 3/4 the car is going to be mostly a steel body with a fiberglass hood I’m also planning to take the back seat out anytime I go to race it but in street configuration it’ll have a seat I know in an 1/8th the motor should be somewhere around a mid 8 second motor I have a buddy who’s run the same combo in a 66 Coronet and he ran low low 8s with an automatic
to say “I Need” was definitely a miscommunication on my part


Edit:I’m also keeping in mind to take everything on this forum with a grain of salt due to multiple different factors

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

i don’t think the Dana will be necessary I know a few 10 second cars that run an 8 3/4 the car is going to be mostly a steel body with a fiberglass hood I’m also planning to take the back seat out anytime I go to race it but in street configuration it’ll have a seat I know in an 1/8th the motor should be somewhere around a mid 8 second motor I have a buddy who’s run the same combo in a 66 Coronet and he ran low low 8s with an automatic
to say “I Need” was definitely a miscommunication on my part


Edit:I’m also keeping in mind to take everything on this forum with a grain of salt due to multiple different factors

exactly, low 8’s = high 12’s. That’s a long way off from 10’s. And don’t confuse an automatic car running 10’s with a stick car. I’ve ran 10’s with a 4 speed, 8 3/4 isn’t going to live.

 

[66Satellite47]

i don’t think the Dana will be necessary I know a few 10 second cars that run an 8 3/4 the car is going to be mostly a steel body with a fiberglass hood I’m also planning to take the back seat out anytime I go to race it but in street configuration it’ll have a seat I know in an 1/8th the motor should be somewhere around a mid 8 second motor I have a buddy who’s run the same combo in a 66 Coronet and he ran low low 8s with an automatic
to say “I Need” was definitely a miscommunication on my part


Edit:I’m also keeping in mind to take everything on this forum with a grain of salt due to multiple different factors

BTW when I bought my '65 Coronet 426W 4 spd, 8 3/4 car it came with 2 broken 4 spds and broken 8 3/4. It was a 12.80 car at the time.

 

[Bryon]

exactly, low 8’s = high 12’s. That’s a long way off from 10’s. And don’t confuse an automatic car running 10’s with a stick car. I’ve ran 10’s with a 4 speed, 8 3/4 isn’t going to live.

If the silver bullet was able to run 10 seconds sure it was an automatic and some beefier axles would definitely be a good idea but the Bullet was a 10 second car running an 8 3/4 that’s also not to mention I don’t care if stuff does break when I do it I want the car to hit a 10.99 just once I’m figuring with the porting done on my 452s as it sits I’m somewhere in the 11 second range

 

[RemCharger]

Nobody's arguing about running 10s with an automatic 8 3/4 lol.
Not sure what you're getting at.
Are you talking 4 speeds or not.

If the silver bullet was able to run 10 seconds sure it was an automatic and some beefier axles would definitely be a good idea but the Bullet was a 10 second car running an 8 3/4 that’s also not to mention I don’t care if stuff does break when I do it I want the car to hit a 10.99 just once I’m figuring with the porting done on my 452s as it sits I’m somewhere in the 11 second range

 

[66Satellite47]

If the silver bullet was able to run 10 seconds sure it was an automatic and some beefier axles would definitely be a good idea but the Bullet was a 10 second car running an 8 3/4 that’s also not to mention I don’t care if stuff does break when I do it I want the car to hit a 10.99 just once I’m figuring with the porting done on my 452s as it sits I’m somewhere in the 11 second range

Racing does involve breaking stuff. As a hard core bracket racer I was always on the edge. Back in the day I was really hard on valve springs, my extensively ported 906 or 915 heads cracked after a while. Breaking the rear axle is a pain. After switching to the Dana 60 never broke a part in one of those. It takes a well thought out combination to get most cars into the low 11's or into the 10's. Lot's of guys "figure" where they'll be. Proof is the time slips. You're going to need really good 452's with the correct cam and a good chassis to get where you want.

 

[Bryon]

Nobody's arguing about running 10s with an automatic 8 3/4 lol.
Not sure what you're getting at.
Are you talking 4 speeds or not.

I’m talking 10.99s with an 8 3/4 and a 4 speed

 

[Bryon]

Racing does involve breaking stuff. As a hard core bracket racer I was always on the edge. Back in the day I was really hard on valve springs, my extensively ported 906 or 915 heads cracked after a while. Breaking the rear axle is a pain. After switching to the Dana 60 never broke a part in one of those. It takes a well thought out combination to get most cars into the low 11's or into the 10's. Lot's of guys "figure" where they'll be. Proof is the time slips. You're going to need really good 452's with the correct cam and a good chassis to get where you want.

I understand that entirely that’s the type of stuff I posted on this thread topic to here I know my cams definitely shallow the 452s I’ve been trying to study up and do a bit of learning on the Chassis is definitely reinforced enough to take the heat my problems with it I won’t be able to solve until the car is running