Post your 12 second combos

[vsj100]

What are your 1/8 mile times and red line?

 

[RemCharger]

Your "redline" depends on your self- assigned max rpm. Will you hit 3 gears in 660' I don't know

 

[33 IMP]

What are your 1/8 mile times and red line?

Are you asking me? Best 1/8 in my Plymouth, 7.07. Typically 7.20s at 95 and change. My self imposed redline is 6500, it will easily rev higher. I used to shift at 62-6300, I found it was just as quick shifted at 5900. That is a function of flow-limited heads.

 

[PeteyDaMan]

First time down the 1/4 mile with The Beast
Loads of fun but, man, do I need some practice!!

71 Charger with a mostly stock suspension.
Super Stock leaf springs
1.03 torsion bars
Bilstein's on all 4 corners
QA1 tubular upper control arms
Borgeson steering box
8 3/4 with 3.55 sure grip
MT Drag radials

Engine:
512 Eagle Stroker kit
10.4:1 compression on 93 octane
Comp Cams hydraulic roller cam laid back 4 degrees 286/294 .544/.541
Eddy RPM heads
Eddy RPM intake
AED 950 cfm carb
TTI 1 7/8
MSD 6AL and billet dizzy

Tranny:
18 spline A833 built by Brewers
McLeod twin disc clutch

I'm in the left lane

Had another run with a trap speed of 119MPH so I think 11's are achievable

 

[RemCharger]

First time down the 1/4 mile with The Beast
Loads of fun but, man, do I need some practice!!

71 Charger with a mostly stock suspension.
Super Stock leaf springs
1.03 torsion bars
Bilstein's on all 4 corners
QA1 tubular upper control arms
Borgeson steering box
8 3/4 with 3.55 sure grip
MT Drag radials

Engine:
512 Eagle Stroker kit
10.4:1 compression on 93 octane
Comp Cams hydraulic roller cam laid back 4 degrees 286/294 .544/.541
Eddy RPM heads
Eddy RPM intake
AED 950 cfm carb
TTI 1 7/8
MSD 6AL and billet dizzy

Tranny:
18 spline A833 built by Brewers
McLeod twin disc clutch

I'm in the left lane

Had another run with a trap speed of 119MPH so I think 11's are achievable

View attachment 1655180

Pretty damn good! For comparison.. my 64 dodge 383, runs about those ets at 106 mph .
a 12.0 is about 110, an 11.0 is about 120 ( roughly on a well set up drag car)

 

[33 IMP]

119 mph?!? Mid ELEVENS are definitely reachable, you've got mid elevens hp now!
You need to work on the leave with the fourspeed. You are giving up over a half second in 60 feet.
(If you don't mind a suggestion, I'd ditch the drag radials for some real slicks, if you plan on more trips to the strip. Drag radials and stickshifts don't play well together. DR'S like to dead hook, don't recover well from wheel spin, slicks can work quite well with a bit of wheelspin that your gonna get from a manual trans)

 

[33 IMP]

An ideal pass with a 90mph 1/8th, can be as quick as 1.66 60ft, 7.55 1/8th, and 11.97. (at 110mph!)
If you can improve your 2.2 60, down to1.9, I think 12.25 should be fairly easy. (the "ideal" pass, to me , would imply a stocker/super stocker degree of prep, not really possible for a street/strip car.)
Edit: study the competitions times on the slip you posted. You are 5 mph faster at the eighth, but he's 6 tenths quicker. And the great majority of that is at 60 feet. From 1/8 to 1/4, you are quicker and faster. With some practice, you could easily be quicker than him, you are already faster!
2nd edit: his 60ft is exceptional for a low 12s car. My guess ... auto trans, good converter and tires.

 

[PeteyDaMan]

119 mph?!? Mid ELEVENS are definitely reachable, you've got mid elevens hp now!
You need to work on the leave with the fourspeed. You are giving up over a half second in 60 feet.
(If you don't mind a suggestion, I'd ditch the drag radials for some real slicks, if you plan on more trips to the strip. Drag radials and stickshifts don't play well together. DR'S like to dead hook, don't recover well from wheel spin, slicks can work quite well with a bit of wheelspin that your gonna get from a manual trans)

so you're saying I should go with a bias slick like a M/T ET drag slick?
Second question, if I'm currently running a 295/55-15 drag radial, what would be the equivalent bias size?

 

[BSB67]

Post the other time slip

 

[67MPRFAN]

so you're saying I should go with a bias slick like a M/T ET drag slick?
Second question, if I'm currently running a 295/55-15 drag radial, what would be the equivalent bias size?

Looks the bias size would be a 28 inch tall tire. Maybe 28x10.5

 

[33 IMP]

so you're saying I should go with a bias slick like a M/T ET drag slick?
Second question, if I'm currently running a 295/55-15 drag radial, what would be the equivalent bias size?

Yes, I would run a bias drag slick, if you are serious about getting the most out of your car at the strip. I would ask mickey or Hoosier if they would recommend a stiff sidewall or not, depending on the weight of your car. Be aware, the more traction you have, the more likely you will find the weak point in your drivetrain.
As for the second question, the tire I run would be an almost exact size twin for a 295/55, a 10.5 /28x15. M/T. (Excuse the dusty Arizona garage.)
You might also consider a bias ET street. Essentially a grooved drag slick with a stiffer sidewall, but not nearly as stiff as a drag radial. (They are measured differently. Slicks are described by tread width, et streets by section. A 12.5 et street would be the same size as a 10.5 slick.)

 

[Gunner1]

Putting this out there for some input. I’ve not run it yet but I’m only the shocks away now. 63 Polara HT. 440 with .030 forged 2355 flat tops. .017 deck height, .039 felpro for alloy heads. Balanced, Isky 292 mega, 242@050 .500 lift, 108lsa, 104icl. CNC Stealths with upgraded springs and 10 degree locks,83cc chambers if I remember right. RPM Air Gap with a 750 Holley DP,MSD Billet w/6AL box. Doug’s 452 headers Magna flow muffs. 3k 11inch, Art Carr’s shop built the 727 to his old funny car specs. RMVB. No compression braking in low. Suppose to make the 1x2 shift faster,billet insides. Later 8 3/4 with no tapered axles, 3.73 gears, Detroit Locker in a new Yukon 489 case. Cal Trac bars with normal weight split leafs. 28 inch 275/60/15 Cooper cobras. All that’s left are a set of cal trac front and rear shocks. I’m hoping for some high to mid 12s. Tires will have to be determined by what the car tells me it wants. Be honest with me. I’m 76 and this is my first mopar I’ve done as a mild street/stripper and most likely my last hot rod. I know the head flow is low. I will most likely pull them this winter and do a home port job. I saved all the stuff from my shop but the flow bench. The runners and chambers look like they stopped the machine after the rough 1st cut. Anyway fire away gentlemen.

 

[33 IMP]

Putting this out there for some input. I’ve not run it yet but I’m only the shocks away now. 63 Polara HT. 440 with .030 forged 2355 flat tops. .017 deck height, .039 felpro for alloy heads. Balanced, Isky 292 mega, 242@050 .500 lift, 108lsa, 104icl. CNC Stealths with upgraded springs and 10 degree locks,83cc chambers if I remember right. RPM Air Gap with a 750 Holley DP,MSD Billet w/6AL box. Doug’s 452 headers Magna flow muffs. 3k 11inch, Art Carr’s shop built the 727 to his old funny car specs. RMVB. No compression braking in low. Suppose to make the 1x2 shift faster,billet insides. Later 8 3/4 with no tapered axles, 3.73 gears, Detroit Locker in a new Yukon 489 case. Cal Trac bars with normal weight split leafs. 28 inch 275/60/15 Cooper cobras. All that’s left are a set of cal trac front and rear shocks. I’m hoping for some high to mid 12s. Tires will have to be determined by what the car tells me it wants. Be honest with me. I’m 76 and this is my first mopar I’ve done as a mild street/stripper and most likely my last hot rod. I know the head flow is low. I will most likely pull them this winter and do a home port job. I saved all the stuff from my shop but the flow bench. The runners and chambers look like they stopped the machine after the rough 1st cut. Anyway fire away gentlemen.

Mid twelves, if it hooks, should be no problem, imo. I've got a bit more gear and cam, a little less weight, you have a LOT better heads than my bowl ported 906s. Mine goes mid 11s.
You WILL need better tires at the strip than Cooper Cobras. They are fine street tires, but they aren't drag tires
Do your burnout in SECOND GEAR, shift to third in the water if you want.
If you still race on street tires, and it spins hard in first gear, just abort the pass, and DONT GET BACK ON IT IN FIRST, shift to second before hitting the throttle again. You have a no low band apply valve body, the above is for your safety, and your transmission's.

 

[biomedtechguy]

Mid twelves, if it hooks, should be no problem, imo

X2
Switch to drag radials if you want 1 tire for street and strip!! I will use Toyo Proxes TQ drag radials whenever I can.
If you can, get a pair of slicks for the track

 

[BSB67]

You don’t need anything more than what you have now to get into the 12s, other than tuning and time in the saddle.

Tires will make it quicker and easier.

 

[biomedtechguy]

Tires will make it quicker and easier.

More consistent too.
FWIW, even with 315/35/17 drag radials, I had a hard time putting all the power down off the line, which definitely hurt my 60 ft and ET.
Unfortunately I didn't get to make use of the vast number of traction improving upgrades I made because I never expected to sell my car, ever, and the time I thought I had to go to the track "next time" never came.
Enjoy your cars every chance you get. I still grieve the loss of my Roadrunner.

 

[BSB67]

His car is an automatic. Big difference.

 

[Gunner1]

Mid twelves, if it hooks, should be no problem, imo. I've got a bit more gear and cam, a little less weight, you have a LOT better heads than my bowl ported 906s. Mine goes mid 11s.
You WILL need better tires at the strip than Cooper Cobras. They are fine street tires, but they aren't drag tires
Do your burnout in SECOND GEAR, shift to third in the water if you want.
If you still race on street tires, and it spins hard in first gear, just abort the pass, and DONT GET BACK ON IT IN FIRST, shift to second before hitting the throttle again. You have a no low band apply valve body, the above is for your safety, and your transmission's.

I’ve heard that. I’m gonna think long and hard to put that on my mental hard drive. I didn’t ask for it. He was having a blast talking old days. Told me he was building it like they did for the early funny cars. I’d like radials for the handling. I’ve had bias rear radials front before on my nova. Not fun. Thanks for the insight guys.

 

[biomedtechguy]

His car is an automatic. Big difference.

I agree and considered that. Still very strong torque, and I am trying to be helpful.

 

[cdr]

Putting this out there for some input. I’ve not run it yet but I’m only the shocks away now. 63 Polara HT. 440 with .030 forged 2355 flat tops. .017 deck height, .039 felpro for alloy heads. Balanced, Isky 292 mega, 242@050 .500 lift, 108lsa, 104icl. CNC Stealths with upgraded springs and 10 degree locks,83cc chambers if I remember right. RPM Air Gap with a 750 Holley DP,MSD Billet w/6AL box. Doug’s 452 headers Magna flow muffs. 3k 11inch, Art Carr’s shop built the 727 to his old funny car specs. RMVB. No compression braking in low. Suppose to make the 1x2 shift faster,billet insides. Later 8 3/4 with no tapered axles, 3.73 gears, Detroit Locker in a new Yukon 489 case. Cal Trac bars with normal weight split leafs. 28 inch 275/60/15 Cooper cobras. All that’s left are a set of cal trac front and rear shocks. I’m hoping for some high to mid 12s. Tires will have to be determined by what the car tells me it wants. Be honest with me. I’m 76 and this is my first mopar I’ve done as a mild street/stripper and most likely my last hot rod. I know the head flow is low. I will most likely pull them this winter and do a home port job. I saved all the stuff from my shop but the flow bench. The runners and chambers look like they stopped the machine after the rough 1st cut. Anyway fire away gentlemen.

Depending on what C&C program was used, those heads will make pretty good power . maybe 300cfm @ 28in , with that cam you should be in 525 ish net HP at the crank