Power Brake Booster Install..

[Joel Talka]

Hi,

More questions... I'm looking to convert this car (my 66 Coronet 440) to power brakes. Previously discs were installed up front keeping drums in the rear. I have the booster/Master Cylinder installed and am looking to plumb the unit. I did buy some pre-formed lines but they need to be extended in order to mate to the proportioning valve. The unit I am working with is from Classic Performance Products and for a disc/ drum or disc/disc set up.

Couple of questions..
1 - The proportioning valve has two small connection ports to the rear (fire wall side) and one larger port to the front (radiator side)... Which is front and which is rear?? Th CPP documentation is not clear..
2 - Plumbing the front, should there be a single line to a "T" splitting fluid left and right or should both front lines connect to the proportioning valve?

When I got the car each front brake was plumbed directly to the proportioning valve. I have no idea if that was correct or not..all I know is that it took lots of pedal pressure to stop the car.

Thanks again,

Joel

 

[Gus chiggins]

Hi,

More questions... I'm looking to convert this car (my 66 Coronet 440) to power brakes. Previously discs were installed up front keeping drums in the rear. I have the booster/Master Cylinder installed and am looking to plumb the unit. I did buy some pre-formed lines but they need to be extended in order to mate to the proportioning valve. The unit I am working with is from Classic Performance Products and for a disc/ drum or disc/disc set up.

Couple of questions..
1 - The proportioning valve has two small connection ports to the rear (fire wall side) and one larger port to the front (radiator side)... Which is front and which is rear?? Th CPP documentation is not clear..
2 - Plumbing the front, should there be a single line to a "T" splitting fluid left and right or should both front lines connect to the proportioning valve?

When I got the car each front brake was plumbed directly to the proportioning valve. I have no idea if that was correct or not..all I know is that it took lots of pedal pressure to stop the car.

Thanks again,

Joel

View attachment 1274472 View attachment 1274473

I'm no expert, but that looks like a gm set up, usually on mopar master cylinders, the lines coming from the MC plumb into the distribution block that is fastened to the left front frame rail.

 

[R/T Boy 67]

The two fitting are each plumbed to a front wheel, and the single is for the rear.

 

[Joel Talka]

The two fitting are each plumbed to a front wheel, and the single is for the rear.

That's what I thought but wanted to be sure... As I recall the fluid reservoirs are sometimes different sizes, larger one for the front but on this set up they appear the same. Next trick will be to extent the set of stock lines I bought and get decent routing away from everything else in that area. Thanks for all your help! Joel

 

[R/T Boy 67]

The rear port on the master cyl. is for the front brakes, and it looks to me from your pictures, that the rear port is plumbed into the combination valve on the same end as the two outlets. If I am seeing it right, then it is plumbed properly.

 

[MOEJOE7]

DDid you e

Hi,

More questions... I'm looking to convert this car (my 66 Coronet 440) to power brakes. Previously discs were installed up front keeping drums in the rear. I have the booster/Master Cylinder installed and am looking to plumb the unit. I did buy some pre-formed lines but they need to be extended in order to mate to the proportioning valve. The unit I am working with is from Classic Performance Products and for a disc/ drum or disc/disc set up.

Couple of questions..
1 - The proportioning valve has two small connection ports to the rear (fire wall side) and one larger port to the front (radiator side)... Which is front and which is rear?? Th CPP documentation is not clear..
2 - Plumbing the front, should there be a single line to a "T" splitting fluid left and right or should both front lines connect to the proportioning valve?

When I got the car each front brake was plumbed directly to the proportioning valve. I have no idea if that was correct or not..all I know is that it took lots of pedal pressure to stop the car.

Thanks again,

Joel

Hi,

More questions... I'm looking to convert this car (my 66 Coronet 440) to power brakes. Previously discs were installed up front keeping drums in the rear. I have the booster/Master Cylinder installed and am looking to plumb the unit. I did buy some pre-formed lines but they need to be extended in order to mate to the proportioning valve. The unit I am working with is from Classic Performance Products and for a disc/ drum or disc/disc set up.

Couple of questions..
1 - The proportioning valve has two small connection ports to the rear (fire wall side) and one larger port to the front (radiator side)... Which is front and which is rear?? Th CPP documentation is not clear..
2 - Plumbing the front, should there be a single line to a "T" splitting fluid left and right or should both front lines connect to the proportioning valve?

When I got the car each front brake was plumbed directly to the proportioning valve. I have no idea if that was correct or not..all I know is that it took lots of pedal pressure to stop the car.

Thanks again,

Joel

View attachment 1274472 View attachment 1274473

I'm currently doing the dame thing. Did you eliminate the factory proportioning valve? Also did you have to run a 10 and 2 psi inline valves or does the one under the booster take care of everything.

Thanks!

 

[Fran Blacker]

If your old master looked like this with the tall reservoir SAVE it. Very hard to find, only seen one.

 

[MOEJOE7]

DDid you e



I'm currently doing the dame thing. Did you eliminate the factory proportioning valve? Also did you have to run a 10 and 2 psi inline valves or does the one under the booster take care of everything.

Thanks!

Did you ever find an answer to these questions? I'm wondering the same thing.

 

[Joel Talka]

Did you ever find an answer to these questions? I'm wondering the same thing.

Hi;

I did get it sorted out. I did eliminate the factory proportioning valve and used the proportioning valve which cam with the booster/master cylinder set up. I had the car out yesterday afternoon, first time on the road, seems to be working fine. I do need to install a vacuum can so as to have enough consistent vacuum to stop the car.

 

[440R/TCharger]

Hi,

More questions... I'm looking to convert this car (my 66 Coronet 440) to power brakes. Previously discs were installed up front keeping drums in the rear. I have the booster/Master Cylinder installed and am looking to plumb the unit. I did buy some pre-formed lines but they need to be extended in order to mate to the proportioning valve. The unit I am working with is from Classic Performance Products and for a disc/ drum or disc/disc set up.

Couple of questions..
1 - The proportioning valve has two small connection ports to the rear (fire wall side) and one larger port to the front (radiator side)... Which is front and which is rear?? Th CPP documentation is not clear..
2 - Plumbing the front, should there be a single line to a "T" splitting fluid left and right or should both front lines connect to the proportioning valve?

When I got the car each front brake was plumbed directly to the proportioning valve. I have no idea if that was correct or not..all I know is that it took lots of pedal pressure to stop the car.

Thanks again,

Joel

View attachment 1274472 View attachment 1274473

Hi Joel:

I live in Palm Coast and have a 66 Coronet 273ci with power brakes. I have no brakes and I have replaced all of my drum brakes, the power brake booster, and the master cylinder, bled them all the way around and yet I still have zero brakes. Any help much appreciated. I am still using the original distribution block as it is the original style master cylinder.