Power Windows '70 GTX

[DM70GTX]

Hi Everyone,

New to the forum and could use your help. I'm restoring my 70 GTX with power windows option. I have the original glass, original two front regulators and two front motors, and the 4 switches (2 rear, 2 for the front doors). I have nothing at all for the rear and my doors are empty. I'm trying to piece together all the components that I am missing to complete the power windows setup. I have a friend who has everything for MANUAL windows. My questions are: For the rear, can I use his manual frames and hardware simply add power regulators when I find a set? For the front, can I use any of his manual components and just add my power regulators? I don't know much about the window system and wondering if most of the manual window components are compatible with power regulators? What parts will I be missing? My understanding is that the front has tracks but no frames? I've done a lot of research online and can't seem to piece it together. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

I've researched this quite a bit, but I'm no expert. I think the power and manual systems are completely different and nothing interchanges (not much anyway). You can 1. find the rear power window regulators 2. Install all manual 3. install an aftermarket power window setup.

Oh, and my advice... it sort of depends upon how close the car is to being drivable? If I had a little bit of time, I would look for some rear power window regulators. I believe the glass & tracks are the same (manual vs power), but the regulators are different. The front/rear power window motors are the same (except rear/convertible) and pretty easy to find at a local auto parts store.

So....buy the stuff from your buddy & use half of it. Install his window tracks in your front doors but use your power window regulator. Use your original glass up front. In back, use his glass & tracks, but find some rear power window regulators. NOTE: factory glass comes in "tinted" and "non tinted" versions, so compare your original door glass vs the glass your buddy has.

While your at it, look at a factory service manual and make sure you collect all the little "up stops", "down stops", window rollers, etc. (as needed).

It sounds like you also need the power window wiring harness??? If you do, you could always just build one yourself since it's not many wires and nobody can see it once installed. I've read some things that it's a good idea to add a modern relay for each power window (search online)

 

[DM70GTX]

I've researched this quite a bit, but I'm no expert. I think the power and manual systems are completely different and nothing interchanges (not much anyway). You can 1. find the rear power window regulators 2. Install all manual 3. install an aftermarket power window setup.

Oh, and my advice... it sort of depends upon how close the car is to being drivable? If I had a little bit of time, I would look for some rear power window regulators. I believe the glass & tracks are the same (manual vs power), but the regulators are different. The front/rear power window motors are the same (except rear/convertible) and pretty easy to find at a local auto parts store.

So....buy the stuff from your buddy & use half of it. Install his window tracks in your front doors but use your power window regulator. Use your original glass up front. In back, use his glass & tracks, but find some rear power window regulators. NOTE: factory glass comes in "tinted" and "non tinted" versions, so compare your original door glass vs the glass your buddy has.

While your at it, look at a factory service manual and make sure you collect all the little "up stops", "down stops", window rollers, etc. (as needed).

It sounds like you also need the power window wiring harness??? If you do, you could always just build one yourself since it's not many wires and nobody can see it once installed. I've read some things that it's a good idea to add a modern relay for each power window (search online)

Great advice and you just confirmed most of my research as well. I know that a company called XV sells a conversion kit but I'm not sure if I can use my original switches and also have a mix of original power regulators in the front and XV power regulators in the rear. I better play it safe and look for original rear regulators. Any thoughts?

For the motors, can I simply give my local autoparts store my car's make and model, or is one of those things where I need to give a make and model of a more recent car which happens to use the same motors as my car? Thanks

 

[Pistol Pete]

Here is another one:

1968-1970 Charger or Roadrunner electric window kit to upgrade your Muscle car for the front doors and rear Quarter windows

 

[1 Wild R/T]

The glass & tracks are the same... The regulators are obviously different... However they aren't that different, the mounting plate bolts to the same place but one mounts a motor & the other mounts a crank... The arm that actuates the window is the same...

If you are creative it is possible to grab the motor, mounting plate, & gear from a power window regulator and the arm from a B body regulator & build what you need... I've done a few sets in the past...

The basic parts (motor/mounting plate/gear) interchange from around 64-87.. So all you need is standard regulators & pretty much any set of power regulators & you can build what you need... B body, C body FMJ Boy doesn't matter...

Then comes wiring...And the first thing I'm gonna tell you is use relays.. That is the difference between windows that work well and windows that are slow/sluggish if they work at all...

There are lots more tricks but that'll give you something to consider...

Oh, yeah the Nu-Relics/XV stuff works and can be adapted to stock switches...

 

[ChargerST]

Here's a set on ebay which shows all the necessary parts. There are some special power window parts which are different from manual window cars such as the bottom stop and the bracket that attaches to the glass.

1970 CHARGER POWER WINDOW SET COMPLETE REGULATORS WIRING SWITCHES B-BODY TESTED | eBay

THESE ARE TESTED REGULATORS AND TESTED WORKING MOTORS. THE COMPLETE WIRING IS PRESENT AND THIS INCLUDES THE FOUR GANG SWITCH WIRING WHICH IS HARD TO FIND. AND THEN ALSO INCLUDED IS THE DASH WIRING WHICH PLUGS INTO THE LOWER HARNESS TO DRAW THE POWER TO WORK THE SET UP.

www.ebay.com

 

[Fabman]

Question with these Nu Relic power windows for the doors. How do the Nu relic window regulators know WHERE to stop ? Do they have built in limit switches or is it an amp loading thing in the motor on the regulators? DO the original manual door glass setups have Window UP/DOWN stops that can be adjusted ?

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Question with these Nu Relic power windows for the doors. How do the Nu relic window regulators know WHERE to stop ? Do they have built in limit switches or is it an amp loading thing in the motor on the regulators? DO the original manual door glass setups have Window UP/DOWN stops that can be adjusted ?

Nu-relics have no travel limiter, that is entirely a function of the original stops built into the doors & quarter panels...

 

[kiwigtx]

For the motors, can I simply give my local autoparts store my car's make and model, or is one of those things where I need to give a make and model of a more recent car which happens to use the same motors as my car? Thanks

I suspect you'll get nothing but a blank stare if you try that.

Seriously....restoration companies or a Wanted advert here are you best bet right now. ----> WANTED - Mopar Parts and Cars - WTB

 

[RemCharger]

I've found often the problem with the motors is the built in interrupter switch has burnt contacts. Pop the top and try cleaning them up

 

[Fabman]

Nu-relics have no travel limiter, that is entirely a function of the original stops built into the doors & quarter panels...

Can you please tell me WHERE these stops are? I suspect one is in the rear track holding the glass. I know the glass has a STOP thats more or less screwed / fastened into the bottom of the glass that could stop UP travel...but I dont see a down stop. AND - the servos on these NU relics are STRONG and want to really PUSH things out of shape.

 

[Fabman]

I've found often the problem with the motors is the built in interrupter switch has burnt contacts. Pop the top and try cleaning them up

Thats NOT my issue

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Can you please tell me WHERE these stops are? I suspect one is in the rear track holding the glass. I know the glass has a STOP thats more or less screwed / fastened into the bottom of the glass that could stop UP travel...but I dont see a down stop. AND - the servos on these NU relics are STRONG and want to really PUSH things out of shape.

My B Body is a 68 which is a little different than a 70 but mine is also a vert.. So I got not good pictures but this is a screen shot of the 70 manual...

 

[Fabman]

Thanks for the illustration...but NOT helpful now because Im installing Nu Relic power operators.

 

[YY1]

Can't speak to 70 specifically, but 71-74 the glass and tracks are the same and only the regulators are different.