PST 1.03 bar installation

[JR_Charger]

Not on mine. I think I read that PST made some early versions of this bar that were not indexed 20 degrees like all OEM bars, and they sat low as a result. Possibly this video was made around a pair of the early bars.

He used a different brand. I was wondering if PST's 1.03 had the same issue.

 

[AR67GTX]

Not the current model Of PST bar. But if you want it lower they will crank down. Mine are around stock height.

 

[JR_Charger]

Are there geometry issues, or any issues at all, with lowering it via the torsion bar adjustment bolts?

 

[hunt2elk]

Are there geometry issues, or any issues at all, with lowering it via the torsion bar adjustment bolts?

You will need to get the car realigned after lowering it. And make sure you are not resting on the bump stop.

 

[Wietse]

Not on mine. I think I read that PST made some early versions of this bar that were not indexed 20 degrees like all OEM bars, and they sat low as a result. Possibly this video was made around a pair of the early bars.

Correct, the newer version are indexed.
I had to only tighten the adjuster a bit once it made contact, on my old bars they were almost fully turned in.
Very easy to get the ride hide correct, although I keep it a little lower than that.

 

[AR67GTX]

The comment about the bump stops is something to be aware of. My 67 with stock GTX bars was a little on the low side for awhile and it didn't have a lot of room to the bump stop. If you want it really low you may need to trim the bump stop a little. But I would not remove them all together. Going lower should should slightly move the top of the tire in (neg camber). With modern radials that’s good and that might even help with a little increased caster - which is good with power steering but not so much with manual steering. You normally want something around 1/2 degree negative camber with radials. The toe will probably change a little but nothing that can’t be adjusted for. Just My 2 cents.

 

[JR_Charger]

Do the QA1 upper control arms have negative camber built in?

 

[JR_Charger]

I'm ready to install my torsion bars. I've noticed one end is marked with the PST 1.03 label - it seems obvious that end should go in the back, where it would be visible, but I'll go ahead and make certain - the marked end goes in the back, right?

 

[hunt2elk]

I'm ready to install my torsion bars. I've noticed one end is marked with the PST 1.03 label - it seems obvious that end should go in the back, where it would be visible, but I'll go ahead and make certain - the marked end goes in the back, right?

It doesn't matter end for end, just left or right. I always install them with the "L" & "R" facing the back so it is easy to see.

 

[AR67GTX]

Be sure to grease up your boot seals good as i had problems getting mine on. Not sure some of the current ones are as tough as the originals.

 

[JR_Charger]

About the boot seals, I saw a comment that said to push them over progressively larger sockets, until the boot is on a socket that's a little larger than the rod end, then slide the boot onto the rod. I tried that and it went so smoothly. My whole install went smoothly, except I forgot to rotate the socket on the LCA up so the adjuster can go in and do its thing. I haven't done this before, so I'll forgive myself this time.

 

[JR_Charger]

Torsion bars are in. Does the LCA look like it's hanging at the right angle? The torsion bolt is in the block but not contacting the arm on the torsion bar socket. The adjustors aren't adjusting anything.

 

[PST]

You really should have the upper and lower control arms and spindles assembled prior to installing the torsion bars. You will want the upper and lower control arm as an assembly to be at full drop. At this point you should be able to slide the torsion bar in. In some cases, you may need to raise the lower control arm, one clocking position to install the torsion bar.

Thanks
James From
PST

 

[Chilsam]

following

 

[HEMIB]

I used the PST idexed set removed the bump stop & the height aduster bolt & plate foung the 1.03 a tad stiff with a 340 you may need to lever the height adjuster lever up to get the plate & adjuster bolt in

 

[JR_Charger]

I installed the drum backing plate to connect the upper and lower control arms, removed the upper bump stop, disconnected the shock, and pulled the torsion bar. It seems like the clocking was correct before. Or course it is always possible something will come out of left field to bite my buttocks, but so far, so good . . .

 

[JR_Charger]

You really should have the upper and lower control arms and spindles assembled prior to installing the torsion bars. You will want the upper and lower control arm as an assembly to be at full drop. At this point you should be able to slide the torsion bar in. In some cases, you may need to raise the lower control arm, one clocking position to install the torsion bar.

Thanks
James From
PST

Does this look correct? The torsion bar adjustors are set to what they were on the factory suspension. I wasn't expecting the upper bump stops to be mashed down. These are 1/4" taller than the factory upper bump stops, but still . . .

 

[PST]

It would be hard to say at this point. You need to finish putting the brake and suspension together and get the weight of the vehicle on the suspension. The upper control arms look normal at this point when the suspension is unloaded.

Thanks
James From
PST

 

[JR_Charger]

Thanks. I backed the adjuster bolts out 15 turns because that seemed like an awful lot of stress on the suspension. The upper control arm is still compressing the upper bump stop.