Pulled motor today, and finds

[440beep]

Been annoyed with an oil leak so pulled the 440 RB engine today. Thought it was RMS, but looks to be head gaskets. Engine was rebuilt 6 years ago and my buddies call it a race motor, it’s only 10.5:1 compression with a custom roller cam that makes enough vacuum for my power brakes, aluminum heads but no idea what head gaskets. Found no oil leaks from back of motor. Need to research head gaskets to use but hope motor builder remembers what he used.

Also, found interesting coloring on 3 4 5 6 exhaust valves which look to be leaner than 1 2 7 and 8. But 3 4 spark plugs look rich. Running a Six Pack so I’m sure the fuel mixture is off, but once heads come off, that may reveal something.

Motor is still on lift and also on motor stand, but I’m not liking the way it looks on stand so scared to remove it off the lift right now. Hoping a buddy swings by to take a look. Learned at the steel mill, evaluate and halt work if safety concern.

 

[DanielSlocum]

Pretty sure there is no oil at exhaust side of the heads where it would leak past a head gasket but that is what it looks like. Any chance the oil came out of the valve covers? Ive seen oil get pushed from front to rear by the cooling fan before. Good luck regardless.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Sure looks like head gaskets leaking oil inside and outside of the cylinders

 

[Charles Cook]

I have heard when running new aluminum heads you should bring engine up to temperature and then Re-torque the head bolts. Many people don’t do this because it requires removing exhaust manifolds. Not sure in your case. Just throwing it out there. Good luck.

 

[BSB67]

Sure looks like head gaskets leaking oil inside and outside of the cylinders

Not sure how that would happen

 

[RemCharger]

I'm thinking fuel puddling from the rear carb,

 

[radical rob]

Cometic 3 layer gasket

 

[440beep]

Rear carb does have fuel leakage from ProForm base plate. Hope they take this back and fix the shaft slop.

Also have oil leakage around back of valley pan.

I'm thinking fuel puddling from the rear carb,

 

[Rishi]

Rear carb does have fuel leakage from ProForm base plate. Hope they take this back and fix the shaft slop.

It's curious you mention shaft slop, with those grinding marks on the throttle shaft, I would expect the shaft was removed at some point, and presume it was bushed. If not, why bother to remove the shaft if you're not gonna bush?

 

[pnora]

I doubt its a head gasket. My bets its the valley pan corner and its wicking down following the head to block area. As far as I know there are no oiling areas on the wedge motors in that area.

 

[Bird 426]

Your plugs look like mine did on my 6-pack, before I got control of my fuel pressure. I am a believer in retorquing the cyl heads, I know that there are nay sayers to that position. A little late for that. Look closely for your leak, oil can travel.

 

[440beep]

My rear carb has the Promax base plate so they did that grinding when swapping the butterflies.

It's curious you mention shaft slop, with those grinding marks on the throttle shaft, I would expect the shaft was removed at some point, and presume it was bushed. If not, why bother to remove the shaft if you're not gonna bush?

 

[440beep]

Yea, my pressure is 8 and I need to get to get it down to 6

Your plugs look like mine did on my 6-pack, before I got control of my fuel pressure. I am a believer in retorquing the cyl heads, I know that there are nay sayers to that position. A little late for that. Look closely for your leak, oil can travel.

 

[dvw]

My bet its the upper corner of the head gasket or the valley tray. Both can be repaired by removing the intake and tray. To know for sure get a $10 Harbor frieght regulator. Plug the breather and dipstick tube. Air up at the PCV fitting in the valve cover to 3-5psi. Spray all potential leak areas with soapy water, watch for bubbles. Even before spraying the water you may see oil being forced out at a leak area. If it's the head gasket clean the inside corner of the head where it meets the block in the valley area. Apply RTV to the head gasket gap for about 3/4" under the corner of the head. It sounds goofy. But I've done it and it works. On all builds now I add a little RTV on the upper corners of the head gasket before installing the head.
Doug

 

[T Brashears]

Might not want the same jets in both sides of the carbs. I’ve seen those fuel pumps put out 10 lbs. Don’t overlook crankcase ventilation,one pcv valve doesn’t fit,er,work on all.

 

[Cranky]

Your plugs look like mine did on my 6-pack, before I got control of my fuel pressure. I am a believer in retorquing the cyl heads, I know that there are nay sayers to that position. A little late for that. Look closely for your leak, oil can travel.

How high was your fuel pressure? I've run some pretty high numbers in the past without issue.....

 

[GTX JOHN]

I used to use Fel Pro 1009 Gaskets for years and still do
for iron Heads. But when we went to Aluminum heads on several
of our cars, I had multiple problems with them sealing. I went to the
Cometic gaskets some years ago and the problems went away totally.

But the Cometic Gaskets are a Darn Fortune!!

 

[BSB67]

The problem with aluminum heads and 1009 gasket also goes away with the 8519.

 

[GTX JOHN]

The problem with aluminum heads and 1009 gasket also goes away with the 8519.

Could you elaborate?

 

[Bird 426]

My fuel pressure didn't seem that high, 7.5. Lowered it to 5, had to raise the bowl levels back up to the bottom of the hole. Removed the Promax jet plates on the end carbs and put the metering plates back in for the time being, 4.5 power valve. Most of my issues have gone away. It will be next year before I can get back to playing with it. It's a little lean where it's at now. 418 small block, at least it's responding now. I'll get it.