Pulled motor today, and finds

[BSB67]

Could you elaborate?

The 1009 gasket failures on aluminum heads have been attributed to its 4.4” bore and it being exposed with the shape difference of aluminum heads, depending on head/gasket/block stack-up location. The 8519 and the 17059 gaskets with their 4.5 bore do not appear to be afflicted with the same failures.

 

[MWbirdLOVER70]

Rear carb does have fuel leakage from ProForm base plate. Hope they take this back and fix the shaft slop.

Also have oil leakage around back of valley pan.



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Applied gasket to the ends of the intake gasket rail?

 

[440beep]

Of course. With gasket maker in the corners.

Applied gasket to the ends of the intake gasket rail?

 

[440beep]

I’m running the MEWagner adjustable PCV, but I question if it’s breathing properly since it looks awfully close to the valve cover baffle. Though it reacts like it’s supposed to while tuning it per the instructions.

Might not want the same jets in both sides of the carbs. I’ve seen those fuel pumps put out 10 lbs. Don’t overlook crankcase ventilation,one pcv valve doesn’t fit,er,work on all.

 

[440beep]

I’m running an Innovate dual AFR gauge and I’m at 14.7ish while idling. But upon accelerating moderately she gets really fat, 11/12, but I have electronic cut outs and will open them to dial her down to 13ish. Running a 4.5 PV too. The secondary metering plates I have no idea what they are, but plan on looking at them over winter. I have the adjustable jet plates and tempted to put them in.

Here’s where I’m lacking, I thought the needle and seat controlled the fuel so if the fuel pump is pumping out 8psi, wouldn’t the needle/seat stop too much fuel from getting the motor. I’m running the hemi mechanical pump through a 3/8 line to the carbs and the fuel pressure shows 8, and based on what I’ve read here, the Six Packs prefer 6. So I need a pressure regulator.

My fuel pressure didn't seem that high, 7.5. Lowered it to 5, had to raise the bowl levels back up to the bottom of the hole. Removed the Promax jet plates on the end carbs and put the metering plates back in for the time being, 4.5 power valve. Most of my issues have gone away. It will be next year before I can get back to playing with it. It's a little lean where it's at now. 418 small block, at least it's responding now. I'll get it.

 

[Bird 426]

I too have AFR's. Sometimes I just think that they are lying. I tried all of the 'How to tune a Sixpack'. My carbs have all new needles and seats, filters at the inlets, new Carter fuel pump, Promax base plates, and metering plates,blah, blah, blah. Something was always causing my plugs to look like that. All over the place with power valves and jetting. I knew that the fuel pressure was a little high at 7.5, but, Holley 's I thought should handle that. Well, I guess not in my case, fuel pressure regulator was my jump shot. I sort of hid it, certainly didn't want to look at it, it's down by the fuel pump against the frame rail. You can use all of the tuning info out there for a Sixpack, but it's a base or starting line for me. Some people are lucky and it all just works for them, some not.
Hope that you find your oil leak, I certainly have had a few myself! Sometimes have to get creative in finding and stopping them.

 

[440beep]

That’s a neat place to put the regulator, will remember that.

 

[Road Grabber]

I never had a regular with a Holley high volume fuel pump for many years without a problem. Not saying others could have. My issues have been making sure you sea carb bolts that enter the intake runners, intake leaks because of a warped intake, proper gaskets being used for the six pack intake, using better sealants that last, valve cover leaks and the correct power valve based on the engine vacuum.
I recently installed aluminum heads and did read that they require retorquing the head bolts.
I would like someone to explain how high fuel pressure causes spark plugs to look like oil deposits? What connections otherwise?

If you have an intake leak oil will be sucked up through the valley. Once you dismantle check the intake. Have a machine shop run the intake over their large belt sander. That’s all it took for me. Intake leaks can also be created when heads are cut without surfacing the intake side.

My best sealer so far has been “Right Stuff”. Corning makes good sealant to.

There’s very few ways oil gets into the combustion chamber. I didn’t read the whole post but I would start with a compression check and intake manifold leak test.

 

[lewtot184]

Not sure how that would happen

Valve cover leak. Been there, done that,...lol.

 

[Road Grabber]

The 1009 gasket failures on aluminum heads have been attributed to its 4.4” bore and it being exposed with the shape difference of aluminum heads, depending on head/gasket/block stack-up location. The 8519 and the 17059 gaskets with their 4.5 bore do not appear to be afflicted with the same failures.

This is interesting about the 1009 gasket because the Trickflow Aluminum head instructions list 1009 gaskets to use in the instructions. They test many engines for their 600 plus top end kit horsepower engine package.

I have Trickflow aluminum heads. I still have to start my engine next spring with the 1009 gaskets. I will keep an eye out on them for leaks. Trickflow does stress that you must retorque the heads after initial start up. This is something I have always done even with cast iron heads and I can say that there are definitely bolts that tighten up while retorquing heads. And yes people do get lazy pulling off the manifold to do that.

The spark plug pictures seem to show more of a wet oil contamination than dry fuel soot but it is tough to distinguish from the photos. There is such a variation between intake and exhaust valves. That's why I would suspect the valley pan gasket. Oil could be oil sucked into the intake runners via the bottom of the intake gasket/valley pan drippling eventually down the corners.

Inspecting the gasket upon removal would tell you. Do a compression test before removal to check if the head gasket(s) are leaking. I don't see coolant leaking from the heads and I don't see oil high enough dripping down from the valve covers.

Question: If it's fuel why aren't all of the spark plugs and valves looking the same? Why do some exhaust valves look like they are running hotter/leaner that others? Why just leak oil and not coolant from the head gasket? Was there a cloud coming out the exhaust while running? Smell of oil/Coolant?

I used to use Fel Pro 1009 Gaskets for years and still do
for iron Heads. But when we went to Aluminum heads on several
of our cars, I had multiple problems with them sealing. I went to the
Cometic gaskets some years ago and the problems went away totally.

But the Cometic Gaskets are a Darn Fortune!!

Curious - What visual signs did you see when you suspected the head gasket leaks using the 1009 gaskets? Just oil? Coolant and oil? Was there a compression test to confirm?

 

[GTX JOHN]

There is major corrosion around the water passages in the head gasket.

Part of my problem (Maybe all) is that the NHRA rules forbid any Antifreeze or
additives that could leak onto the race track and compromise the surface.

The Cometics cured the problem for us.

 

[lewtot184]

I've welded up torched alum heads because of that 1009 gasket. Use them on a 361 or 413 nothing else.

 

[BSB67]

It would be odd for oil leaking into one intake runner on each side of the motor (#3, and #4 cylinders). Usually adjacent pairs leak. Sometimes 2 cylinders, sometimes 4.

As stated earlier, a leaking head gasket will not present oil as shown in this case. Other plausible explanation have been given.

A lean miss can cause white exhaust valve and a carboned-up plug.