Qa1 suspension options

[Cory M]

So...I'm working on a 72 Satellite and have decided to do the Qa1 coilover conversion for the front. This is not only to gain the better suspension but mostly to gain the rack and pinion. But I'm torn on whether or not to do the coilover conversion for the back. So my question for mopar fanatics more versed in suspension than me...is would the coilover conversion for the rear be worth the investment and hassle of welding in new pieces and assembly? Pros and/or cons?

 

[dukeboy_318]

So...I'm working on a 72 Satellite and have decided to do the Qa1 coilover conversion for the front. This is not only to gain the better suspension but mostly to gain the rack and pinion. But I'm torn on whether or not to do the coilover conversion for the back. So my question for mopar fanatics more versed in suspension than me...is would the coilover conversion for the rear be worth the investment and hassle of welding in new pieces and assembly? Pros and/or cons?

You’re gonna get some varied opinions, and some very strong ones at that.

For me, I have two cars, one factory torsion bar with upgraded PST stuff and one with the Gerst(now QA1 ) cool over set up. I bit the bullet and went coil overs on all four corners. This lets me get the weight balance where I will want it. I saw no sense in going just halfway with it.

I do know someone will post the two or three QA1/Gerst failures that recently happened. From what QA1 has told me, those failures were in fact a bad shipment of steel they received and they not only corrected the issue but have redesigned it completely to be even stronger should they get the wrong steel grade again.

 

[rirealtor]

You’re gonna get some varied opinions, and some very strong ones at that.

For me, I have two cars, one factory torsion bar with upgraded PST stuff and one with the Gerst(now QA1 ) cool over set up. I bit the bullet and went coil overs on all four corners. This lets me get the weight balance where I will want it. I saw no sense in going just halfway with it.

I do know someone will post the two or three QA1/Gerst failures that recently happened. From what QA1 has told me, those failures were in fact a bad shipment of steel they received and they not only corrected the issue but have redesigned it completely to be even stronger should they get the wrong steel grade again.

I’d like to know more details about these failures/poor metal and when the manufacturing dates occurred. I took delivery on a full system this year and in process of install.

 

[Don67Satellite]

I do not have any of their products installed on mine, but have looked at the options. The recent thing I had read/seen somewhere was a K-frame failure at the weld points. Not sure how widespread it is however, or if an isolated incident.

 

[Cory M]

Interesting...are you noticing a significant difference in the handling, ride, or performance with the coilover conversion?

 

[Mopar Hunter]

I do not have any of their products installed on mine, but have looked at the options. The recent thing I had read/seen somewhere was a K-frame failure at the weld points. Not sure how widespread it is however, or if some isolated incidents.

I saw your post and a red X and thought who would disagree. I accidentally hit it with my fat finger.

 

[Don67Satellite]

I saw your post and a red X and thought who would disagree. I accidentally hit it with my fat finger.

 

[JR_Charger]

I do not have any of their products installed on mine, but have looked at the options. The recent thing I had read/seen somewhere was a K-frame failure at the weld points. Not sure how widespread it is however, or if an isolated incident.

Coil over K-frame or torsion bar K-frame?

 

[Don67Satellite]

Coil over K-frame or torsion bar K-frame?

TBH, I cannot recall which. Have been looking at many options for updating my suspension lately over the coming winter, and saw something posted somewhere about one of the K frames randomly breaking at a weld and it had a photo. I suppose an isolated incident with the number of people here that use their stuff with great success.

 

[dukeboy_318]

I’d like to know more details about these failures/poor metal and when the manufacturing dates occurred. I took delivery on a full system this year and in process of install.

My understanding is it is limited to a handful of units made somewhere in late 2020/early 2021. If you have pictures of yours, I can tell you if it’s the redesigned one or not. I was told only 2-3 failures out of a few thousand kits sold. But they weren’t taking chances and redesigned it to make sure it could never happen again

 

[rirealtor]

My understanding is it is limited to a handful of units made somewhere in late 2020/early 2021. If you have pictures of yours, I can tell you if it’s the redesigned one or not. I was told only 2-3 failures out of a few thousand kits sold. But they weren’t taking chances and redesigned it to make sure it could never happen again

That would have been pre Qa1, no? I believe pricing went up after they acquired Gerst, perhaps maybe it was due to the re design?

 

[dvw]

I've installed the QA1/Gerst set-up on earlier B bodies. Be careful what you wish for. The turning radius is greatly reduced. The geometry is poor. limited front suspension travel. Not a ton of weight savings. Not to mention the cost. I suggest finding someone who has this set up and drive it.
Doug

 

[dukeboy_318]

TBH, I cannot recall which. Have been looking at many options for updating my suspension lately over the coming winter, and saw something posted somewhere about one of the K frames randomly breaking at a weld and it had a photo. I suppose an isolated incident with the number of people here that use their stuff with great

That would have been pre Qa1, no? I believe pricing went up after they acquired Gerst, perhaps maybe it was due to the re design?

No, it sounds to me like it was right after

 

[dukeboy_318]

I've installed the QA1/Gerst set-up on earlier B bodies. Be careful what you wish for. The turning radius is greatly reduced. The geometry is poor. limited front suspension travel. Not a ton of weight savings. Not to mention the cost. I suggest finding someone who has this set up and drive it.
Doug

Interesting. Mine is an a body kit and my travel is nearly the same as factory and I didn’t have any turn radius loss or at least none that I have noticed. I also saved about 120 pounds but that was mostly in the drums and heavy factory power steering box. But noted. Either way, whichever way the OP chooses to go , I think it’ll be fine.

 

[dukeboy_318]

I will say this, pay attention to the brake setup. I chose the cheap brake route, which was buying the brakes thru speedway . The hubs on the rotors are even larger than factory Mopar. So I had to run a 5/16 spacer to get my wheels on

 

[dvw]

It definitely has less travel. I own the exact same car with the stock stuff. Turning tight into my hoist bay mine will make it in one try. The QA1 car will not. Also it needed double the suggested spacer on the outer tie rod to get the bump steer anywhere near to close. That cantilevers the tie rod pretty far away from the steering knuckle. It appears that they have the rack mounted to low for extra pan clearance. That means the tie rods have to be low as well. Pic #1 is with the suggested spacers. notice the tie rod angle and lower control arm angle. Not even close. Pic #2 is where I roughed it in before alignment. QA! said I knew nothing about bump steer. Then a few months later the owner the owner received this sheet (pic#3) from QA1. Looks like what I did months before. My drag car has zero bump steer with 95% factory stuff. Runs thru the 1/4 over 147 mph on a regular basis. The big weight savings is trimming the K frame, manual steering and light brakes.
Doug

 

[dukeboy_318]

It definitely has less travel. I own the exact same car with the stock stuff. Turning tight into my hoist bay mine will make it in one try. The QA1 car will not. Also it needed double the suggested spacer on the outer tie rod to get the bump steer anywhere near to close. That cantilevers the tie rod pretty far away from the steering knuckle. It appears that they have the rack mounted to low for extra pan clearance. That means the tie rods have to be low as well. Pic #1 is with the suggested spacers. notice the tie rod angle and lower control arm angle. Not even close. Pic #2 is where I roughed it in before alignment. QA! said I knew nothing about bump steer. Then a few months later the owner the owner received this sheet (pic#3) from QA1. Looks like what I did months before. My drag car has zero bump steer with 95% factory stuff. Runs thru the 1/4 over 147 mph on a regular basis. The big weight savings is trimming the K frame, manual steering and light brakes.
Doug


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Wonder if they changed the geometry when they bought the design from Gerst. I don’t have that issue but mine is a much older version as well. Interesting factoids for sure. Thanks for sharing

 

[dvw]

This install was done fall 2021 with recently purchased parts.
Doug

 

[dukeboy_318]

This install was done fall 2021 with recently purchased parts.
Doug

Next time you’re under it, if you don’t mind, see what the part number of your coil overs are. I’ll compare them to my Viking ones. They switched to QA1 a few years back before the buy out.

 

[fewillys]

I bought my Gerst front suspension in September 2019 for my '66 Sat . My car had the large power steering pump and factory style disc brakes , my weight savings was a little over 120 lbs , as weighed . I am not a torsion bar " hater " , I have 2 others that are stockish suspension , but jeeez it makes getting to things under the car with a 2nd gen hemi a lot easier . My bumpsteer/ackerman are perfect with the standard parts - no extra shimming . Mine also came with the Viking shocks , and I purchased the 12.19" Wilwood Dynapro brakes also with the kit . Mine does not have a turning radius issue . I can see some differences in the parts between my kit and

dvw s kit . When I was at SEMA last year I spoke with an engineer from QA1 and he stated that when they bought the rights to Gerst's products there were no CAD drawings , only jigs and pre-formed parts . They were having some issues recreating things exactly the same . So yes ​

dukeboy_318​

there could have been some geometry changes . That being said .... Carl was great in helping me with a few questions that I had , and I am very happy with my kit ..... other than the bad rotor that Wilwood supplied and wont stand behind . It has many differences in thickness .... .30" ... not warped - was mis-machined from the factory .​